What's on your bench?

[chipper1]

Have you put a dial indicator on the crank end?

Nope, but its obviously out, can I borrow yours .
Brand new spur and I also tried the other bar I have for it with the exact results.
I can have a buddy turn the spur, to solve that problem, but I wouldn't want to sell it that way.

 

[Wolverine]

Nope, but its obviously out, can I borrow yours .
Brand new spur and I also tried the other bar I have for it with the exact results.
I can have a buddy turn the spur, to solve that problem, but I wouldn't want to sell it that way.

Brass hammer?

EDIT: just joking...

 

[chipper1]

Brass hammer?

EDIT: just joking...

I was already told to just line them up so they counter act each other, then I guess I have to weld the spur to the crank lol.
You all are a lot of help .

 

[Mattyo]

Check the head bolts and make sure they aren't too long...don't wanna bottom them out.

Metal intake clamp is a must.

1184 or other gas resistant sealant for the bearing cap

Cut off flywheel side leg of the muffler support aND the 346xp support will fit fine.

Check the riser block for flat AND the mating surface of the crankcase.

105 123 78 are the numbers I aim for for porting.

Lots more 350 stuff on the youtube channel

 

[redlight066]

Honestly, no clue.

The machine work is so off, I just don’t know what to expect.

It’s gonna go on my own saw. Ran out of time yesterday, plus got pissed off.

The only certainty here is uncertainty. Whatever he professed the numbers to be aren’t likely to be anything close.

I’m gonna try a double gasket next, then if I get some squish I will cut band square.

Damn. Al that sucks. Might be time to bring back the avatar

 

[redlight066]

Some shiny 661 go fast.

 

[RI Chevy]

Very nice grinding...
And machine work...

 

[redlight066]

Very nice grinding...
And machine work...

Thank you!



Just as good as a belt sander.......give or take 10-15 thou.

 

[RI Chevy]

[emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]
No belt Sanders allowed in here!

 

[chipper1]

Metal intake clamp is a must.

Never had one go bad on me, and I've ran the heck out of them even on saws with cats.
I think it's from guys not knowing how to sharpen a chain overheating them.
That being said if you there I'd replace it too.

 

[RI Chevy]

So you like the plastic wire ties that hold intake boot on?

 

[Mastermind]

M U F F L E R S

 

[chipper1]

So you like the plastic wire ties that hold intake boot on?

Not sure if you're joking or calling the plastic clamps plastic wire ties?
Not saying I like plastic clamps, but I've never had a problem with one on a saw that I acquired that they were tight on. I used to check them after every tank, then after every time I cleaned the filter(that's a while on a husky lol), then I hardly bothered. If you run them super hot(like from a dull chain) I believe that causes them too fail. Every time I've had one that was loose it had a bad piston from overheating, I don't thing the plastic clamp caused the initial problem but was rather an effect.

 

[chipper1]

M U F F L E R S

View attachment 213166

Look good.
Mine don't look like that.

 

[RI Chevy]

The plastic "clamp" is a plastic wire tie. They were prone to coming loose and causing lean seizes(air leaks) on all these 3xx saws. They are junk and should have never, ever been used to secure the intake partition to cylinder. Just plain BAD cheap engineering.
My 2 cents on these. I have a Hooskie 345 that was given to me with a plastic wire tie that's about 1/2 off. I refuse to pull the clamshell cylinder just to fix the issue.

 

[chipper1]

The plastic "clamp" is a plastic wire tie. They were prone to coming loose and causing lean seizes(air leaks) on all these 3xx saws. They are junk and have never, ever been used to secure the intake partition to cylinder. Just plain BAD cheap engineering.
My 2 cents on these. I have a Hooskie 345 that was given to me with a plastic wire tie that's about 1/2 off. I refuse to pull the clamshell cylinder just to fix the issue.

Never seen one come loose on a saw I was running, or even loosen up at all. I've seen them loose on abused saws, even clean abused saws. I've cut a good amount of wood with the 353's and 359's with the cat mufflers and they were great, all were sold with the plastic clamps and as far as I know they are all running great as no-one has ever said a thing. I always let guys know whether they are metal or plastic before selling them.
What did the chain look like on the saw when you got it.
You realize they aren't hard to remove on those saws.
How much you want for it, lets see some pictures. We'll get you some more room on the shelf or the floor or I'll even buy you a new door stop lol.

 

[RI Chevy]

I have never, ever cut with a dull chain and I do not abuse my equipment. I'll grab some photos when I can. I have posted them already on this issue.
If you like your friends, get the saws back and change out the plastic to a metal clamp. I do not use the saw just for this very reason. Piston and cylinder were perfect. Saw ran very well when I did run it...

 

[spencerpaving]

Starting a few 3140 mufflers....

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[Ronie]

This is the piston Funky Sawman was having a problem with. I was curious how it would run out of the box so I talked to Dominate and got it at a very good price. Haven't decided what saw to try it out in yet but when I do I'll post how it runs.

 

[wcorey]

The plastic "clamp" is a plastic wire tie...

Husqvarna never used a separate wire tie. If that’s what’s on yours then someone modded/clipped the tab flush on the original clamp and added the tie.
The factory one is integrated/bonded onto the intake boot and can’t really slip off.
It could however become un-ratcheted or maybe the boot getting somehow traumatized and loose tension, though I’ve yet to see a failing one in dozens of these I’ve worked on.