What to look out for on the 440 kit?

[Ronie]

Looks great!

 

[slackinoff]

I am not sure if the factory saws have this long of a plug wire, but this is how I tucked mine in the cover.

 

[Ronie]

I am not sure if the factory saws have this long of a plug wire, but this is how I tucked mine in the cover.

View attachment 318750

I'd shorten it up a little. If that pre filter is like the one I got with my 660 It's very restrictive, I'd put an Outerwares cover on it or order one of the pleated filters. I used that filter on my 036 and put an Outerwares cover on it until my pleated one gets here and I'll put the cover on it.

https://outerwears.com/proddetail.asp?prod=202471&cat=12901

 

[MustangMike]

Yea, shorten that wire, it is easy. Just measure how much to shorten, unscrew it from the coil, cut it, and screw it back into the coil.

I've tried looping them all different ways, and they don't seem to stay on as well as a shortened wire.

 

[slackinoff]

I'd shorten it up a little. If that pre filter is like the one I got with my 660 It's very restrictive, I'd put an Outerwares cover on it or order one of the pleated filters. I used that filter on my 036 and put an Outerwares cover on it until my pleated one gets here and I'll put the cover on it.

https://outerwears.com/proddetail.asp?prod=202471&cat=12901

View attachment 318754

Yea, shorten that wire, it is easy. Just measure how much to shorten, unscrew it from the coil, cut it, and screw it back into the coil.

I've tried looping them all different ways, and they don't seem to stay on as well as a shortened wire.

Thanks guys, I didn't know it would be that easy to shorten. Also on the pleated filter, did you go for the Stihl pleated or an aftermarket pleated. The stihl ones are higher than I thought they would be.

Oh and one more thing after looking at filters, I didn't realize the black foam was an insert for inside the filter. I thought it was a filter they accidentally put in for a different saw or something. Do you guys run that? I'm guessing it's for fuel spitback from the carb.

 

[Ronie]

Thanks guys, I didn't know it would be that easy to shorten. Also on the pleated filter, did you go for the Stihl pleated or an aftermarket pleated. The stihl ones are higher than I thought they would be.

Oh and one more thing after looking at filters, I didn't realize the black foam was an insert for inside the filter. I thought it was a filter they accidentally put in for a different saw or something. Do you guys run that? I'm guessing it's for fuel spitback from the carb.

I'm cheap so I ordered an aftermarket one and I'm going to run it with the foam insert.

 

[StihlMagnum440]

It's alive! Cranked it today with a few pulls and started tuning. It quit and kicked back a little. Then I notice it's broke the starter rope at the handle knot. I'm not sure how that happened.
After taking the starter off and rewinding/fighting with it 4 times I got it working and cut some cookies.
The starter handle had some really sharp edges inside, that may have caused the rope breakage. I hand turned a drill bit to deburr it.
View attachment 100049

So..how has it held up? I may have missed posts. I am curious how long a non modified kit last.

 

[StihlMagnum440]

I actually lapped the flywheel to the crank with valve grinding compound, then hit it with a 3/8" impact. I think lapping is a necessary step with these somewhat ill fitting parts. The flanged oem nut is definitely better than the one supplied.

That hitting it with an impact wrench is a bad habit. Torque wrenches are a good thing.

 

[MustangMike]

I hand tighten the flywheel nut to just before I think it will strip. I'm sure it is tighter than spec, but it usually works.

The black foam spitback filters s/b used with any saw that does not have the spitback guard. 044/440 does not have one, and a lot of them have been removed from 046/460 and 066/660 saws.

I believe Randy did a test and determined that after a few tanks the filter is not as efficient w/o the spitback guard because it gets fouled with the spitback.

 

[StihlMagnum440]

I would also mention to recheck the flywheel nut after running/tuning a few minutes. I don’t think the flywheel is a perfect fit to the crank taper. I torqued mine to spec but it sheared the key after just a few minutes of running, like the nut had come loose. After retightening the nut it did not loosen up again. I would ditch the Chinese nut in favor of an oem flanged nut if you have a spare.[/QUOTe Did as you advised and after a bunch of hours on saw no problems. Thanks. Kinda feel guilty from learning from others mishaps. I hope your saw did not get damaged and is running good.

I am not sure if the factory saws have this long of a plug wire, but this is how I tucked mine in the cover.

View attachment 318750

The stock ones are barely long enough to fit and have an outer protection hose. The wire and protective tube is thicker than FT and a little smoothing and plastic removing was needed to fit the FT cover on it.

 

[StihlMagnum440]

I am not sure if the factory saws have this long of a plug wire, but this is how I tucked mine in the cover.

View attachment 318750

On the wires for the kill switch instead of trying to fit them around the circle holder I used the guiding and wire holding slots all the way under carb and to circle holder then had them go from the circle holder up over the rubber boot for the jets. The wires were just long enough and made a good bow over the boot to switch. Those wires can get loose on the stock set up and get caught on the choke arm etc.. That happened on my OEM saw but did not bother anything. Plus, I just did not feel like trying to get the wires to go around the circle wire holder.

 

[StihlMagnum440]

I hand tighten the flywheel nut to just before I think it will strip. I'm sure it is tighter than spec, but it usually works.

The black foam spitback filters s/b used with any saw that does not have the spitback guard. 044/440 does not have one, and a lot of them have been removed from 046/460 and 066/660 saws.

I believe Randy did a test and determined that after a few tanks the filter is not as efficient w/o the spitback guard because it gets fouled with the spitback.

That hand tightening is good. I know with my air tools and my battery powered drill that it is very easy to have the torque settings off and/or the forward and reverse setting wrong. The flywheel nut on my saw only needed around 24 ft.lbs. so not much tightening on the very delicate looking crankshaft. I bet there has been more than one guy with their impact wrench installation regretting the decision...crankshafts are expensive and a pain to put in if you do not want any down time on your saw. Of course there are experienced chainsaw experts on here that use impact tools etc and can put together saws in no time..I am no where near that level. Would be interesting to see how fast the fastest moving saw expert can put together a complete saw from a box of parts.

 

[LoneOak]

Thanks guys, I didn't know it would be that easy to shorten. Also on the pleated filter, did you go for the Stihl pleated or an aftermarket pleated. The stihl ones are higher than I thought they would be.

Oh and one more thing after looking at filters, I didn't realize the black foam was an insert for inside the filter. I thought it was a filter they accidentally put in for a different saw or something. Do you guys run that? I'm guessing it's for fuel spitback from the carb.

I just put a 440 kit together last night, and I found an issue with the handle bar screws. When I put one of these kits together the handle bar is the very last item to be installed so the only screws I had left were the handle bar screws, 2 -18mm and 2 -21.5mm. The IPL calls for 4 -21.5mm screws for the half wrap handle bar. On this kit 21.5mm long screws are too long! I used 4 -18mm screws.

If you can see the screws protruding out the back side of their bore then they are too long. If you used the 21.5mm screws on the bottom handle bar mount they could rub holes into the crankcase, I have seen this on several 044/440 in the past. I measured the depth of the bottom screw bore at the fuel tank, and that bore was exactly 21.5mm. I have also seen people use the 32.5mm screw here and puncture the tank.

I believe the coil used for the 440 is suitable for other Stihl models as well, that is why the lead is extra long.


I used foam tape to improve the air filter seal. Amazon or Ebay, 5 Bux. for 30 ft


I prefer the bar studs with a wider shoulder.

 

[MustangMike]

I believe those are 460 bar studs, and I like them also as they support your bar better. If I use the factory studs, I usually insert them backwards (with the longer side out).

It makes it easier to get the bar nuts started, and they seem not to strip as much, and the shorter threads into the case (with locktite) hold just fine!

 

[StihlMagnum440]

Glad my info was of some help, best of luck with your builds, and keep us posted.

Also, WELCOME to the site!

There used to be a guy on another site known as Maine Moose, he had a real cool avatar of a Bull Moose pulling a sleigh! Unfortunately, I have not seen him post in quite a while. I know he was a big fan of Red Oak for firewood.

The 044/440s used to be my favorite saws, and I will never part with my 10 mm 044, but the new 462s are real nice ... my new favorites!

You have run the 440 for years and know all about them. If you were cutting a 24 inch tree into 3 inch pieces (3x24) how would the 462 compare vs a 440. What are the performance differences in vibes, weight, etc.. How much faster getting the tree cut up would the 462 be? Is it a great difference that would make me go "ooh wow"? How do the compare? I was cutting away today and the 440 with a razor sharp chain was flinging the chips and making a good pile of cut wood and I got to wondering. I find myself in different situations where the most speed getting the job done is needed. We have snow coming and I have more trees down. I want them done ASAP and the 440 is doing the job but how much better would a 462 do the job?

 

[LoneOak]

With the same bar and chain I would estimate about 10 - 15% faster. A 462 will spin faster in the cut.

 

[StihlMagnum440]

With the same bar and chain I would estimate about 10 - 15% faster. A 462 will spin faster in the cut.

I should have put 20" bar and with the big Dawgs it shortens the bar to 18". I have a 32" bar for single cuts. Need to get an in between bar. As you know, at some point the bar and chain along with size wood you are cutting gives diminishing returns on the bigger is better train of thought and in some cases a smaller and lighter saw is preferable. Actually the 24" is at tree butt and decreases in size so it quickly gets to the point that the 462 would give no gains but just be nicer. I will be doing more research but just wanted to see what someone with 462/440 experience had to say....probably be difficult to get an objective answer because no one wants to admit that a modified and/or larger newer saw does not go through the tree faster. Stihl wants you to buy the bigger more expensive saw but even they tell you that only a certain amount of power is needed for the size of wood being cut. Wonder how the 462 reacts when chain looses traction when hitting frozen wood...they do not like sudden free wheeling it seems. Hmmmm

 

[Ronie]

I used foam tape to improve the air filter seal. Amazon or Ebay, 5 Bux. for 30 ft

Do you have a link for the tape you used, the cheapest I can find is around $10.

 

[MustangMike]

The performance of 044/440s is so all over the map that this is a tough one to answer. Also, both my 462s are ported, my 044 is not.

Let's just say they are both very good performers with a 20" bar.

The 462 is lighter, does not need tuning when you change elevation/temperature, is smoother (spring AV) and the air filter says cleaner much longer. Also, the 462 has faster throttle response, which is really nice when limbing.

It is just an easier saw to pull out and use time after time. That said, there is nothing wrong with a good running 044/440. My 044 did very well against several 372s at a GTG.

I had a VG running 440 (not all of them are the same) that had the same mods as my 044 (it had a burned piston, so I got it for $25, was like brand new). Put a new piston in it, kept it for a while, then sold it when I had too many 70 cc saws. My 044 was just a little faster, but I liked that the 440 had compression release. However, I've owned the 044 since new (12/92), so I cannot let it go.

It took decades for Stihl or Husky to come out with a saw that was both lighter and stronger than the 044/440. The 462 is it.

 

[slackinoff]

I just put a 440 kit together last night, and I found an issue with the handle bar screws. When I put one of these kits together the handle bar is the very last item to be installed so the only screws I had left were the handle bar screws, 2 -18mm and 2 -21.5mm. The IPL calls for 4 -21.5mm screws for the half wrap handle bar. On this kit 21.5mm long screws are too long! I used 4 -18mm screws.

If you can see the screws protruding out the back side of their bore then they are too long. If you used the 21.5mm screws on the bottom handle bar mount they could rub holes into the crankcase, I have seen this on several 044/440 in the past. I measured the depth of the bottom screw bore at the fuel tank, and that bore was exactly 21.5mm. I have also seen people use the 32.5mm screw here and puncture the tank.

I am going to check this tonight, thanks for the tip. I don't recall what size I used, but I did use the IPL so it probably has 21.5. I have micrometer that I can use to measure the depth of the bore. I will report back what I find on my saw.