High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What to look out for on the 440 kit?

MustangMike

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I believe the 10 mm saws had different pin locations (for the rings) on the piston, so it will work with a 12 mm piston as long as you ensure the ports will not hang a ring.
 

slackinoff

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Fixed an exhaust leak after a second trip to the free wood I found on Facebook Marketplace. So there are little dimples on the heat shield and one of them was causing the plate to not sit fush against the exhaust port. I hammered that one down. I think that fixed it.

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Saw is running great. Impressed with the kit and the bar and chains so far.

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StihlMagnum440

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Fixed an exhaust leak after a second trip to the free wood I found on Facebook Marketplace. So there are little dimples on the heat shield and one of them was causing the plate to not sit fush against the exhaust port. I hammered that one down. I think that fixed it.

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Saw is running great. Impressed with the kit and the bar and chains so far.

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MustangMike got me looking at the muffler in my FT kit. How loud is the saw? I would put a screen on mine. The screen not only keeps stuff from flying out, it keeps stuff from going in muffler and possibly into cylinder. No much to that muffler in my kit...just about able to check the piston by looking in the hole!
 

LoneOak

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MustangMike got me looking at the muffler in my FT kit. How loud is the saw? I would put a screen on mine. The screen not only keeps stuff from flying out, it keeps stuff from going in muffler and possibly into cylinder. No much to that muffler in my kit...just about able to check the piston by looking in the hole!

The 440 and the 460 are stupid loud with that dual port Alaskan muffler!
 

slackinoff

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MustangMike got me looking at the muffler in my FT kit. How loud is the saw? I would put a screen on mine. The screen not only keeps stuff from flying out, it keeps stuff from going in muffler and possibly into cylinder. No much to that muffler in my kit...just about able to check the piston by looking in the hole!

That is a good idea, I didn't consider things entering. I think it's very very loud. I am actually hunting for a standard muffler because it's a bit much, for me. I was in a neighborhood collecting that free wood ( see prior post) and I was waiting for the stink eye from someone. Even just out in the woods, I think I would prefer it a bit quieter.

Just for notes - I put about seven tanks through it over the weekend. The saw runs better with the exhaust leak fixed and hammering down that dimple fixed it. One thing I have noticed is the the compression reading is a little low. It's 130 as of last night. I am not that concerned because it runs strong, starts easy, tunes easy so it might just have a large squish. I never checked it so I don't know. I will at some point this week.
 

slackinoff

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Well after some reading I am going to try a used ms460 muffler. It has a deflector in the muffler in front of the exhaust port vs straight shot with the 440. Below is a 460. The one I am getting comes with the spark screen and a closed front cover. I figure if it's too choked up for my liking I can swap the dual port cover on it, or even the closed front cover on my non baffled 440 muffler. Different combos to play with.

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StihlMagnum440

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Well after some reading I am going to try a used ms460 muffler. It has a deflector in the muffler in front of the exhaust port vs straight shot with the 440. Below is a 460. The one I am getting comes with the spark screen and a closed front cover. I figure if it's too choked up for my liking I can swap the dual port cover on it, or even the closed front cover on my non baffled 440 muffler. Different combos to play with.

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Sounds great. FYI I used the FT kit flywheel to replace my dinged up one on my OEM Stihl 440 and it was an exact match (it was the high flow lighter weight version Stihl put on to help keep my EPA muffler restricted saw cool). If you were to put my saw's pencil hole EPA muffler on an FT kit it might overheat if FT kit cooling fins etc not as big as my saws...doubt 460 muffler will overheat. One guy told me a 460 DP on my saw is kind of loud but adds 1/2 hp! I would rather keep it quiet.
 

slackinoff

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Sounds great. FYI I used the FT kit flywheel to replace my dinged up one on my OEM Stihl 440 and it was an exact match (it was the high flow lighter weight version Stihl put on to help keep my EPA muffler restricted saw cool). If you were to put my saw's pencil hole EPA muffler on an FT kit it might overheat if FT kit cooling fins etc not as big as my saws...doubt 460 muffler will overheat. One guy told me a 460 DP on my saw is kind of loud but adds 1/2 hp! I would rather keep it quiet.

That thought briefly crossed my mind, that it might be so restrictive that it adds heat.....but from what you are saying the FT flywheels are the higher flow versions? So I should be ok?
 
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StihlMagnum440

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I actually thought it might be so restrictive that it adds heat.....but from what you are saying the FT flywheels are the higher flow versions? So I should be ok?
Wish I knew for sure because cooling system includes flywheel fins, cylinder fins, covers etc...but on the FT flywheel it is the correct one. I do not think any problem because FT kit copies Stihl and the cooling system on Stihl. You would need to watch for overheating if you put a restrictive EPA muffler on it and the 460 on a440 is not so restrictive...seems like in between to extremes (FT kit muffler v EPA pencil hole muffler). You got the idea though. You may have to tweak carb hi jet when having mufflers is anther thought. Should help on noise anyhow.
 

slackinoff

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@StihlMagnum440
@MustangMike

Good info y'all. Whatever the outcome on the muffler, it will be fun to try out. Mike I think I read an old msg on here where you said the 460 muffler fits the 440. Thanks for that.

On the 460 muffler - most of the used Sthil ones are in rough shape for the price in my opinion. There is an aftermarket muffler available new called "The duke's muffler with spark screen 440 460" on ebay for $27 shipped. I didn't know they had the deflector/baffle in them or I would have purchased it instead of a used 460 muffler for $29 bucks. * Confirmed the duke muffler does have the 460 baffle btw.

Checking squish when I get home, I picked up some solder on my lunch break. Maybe it will be too high to correct with a base gasket delete and I get to send it off to have the base cut. That would be kinda cool if not too expensive.
 

StihlMagnum440

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@StihlMagnum440
@MustangMike

Good info y'all. Whatever the outcome on the muffler, it will be fun to try out. Mike I think I read an old msg on here where you said the 460 muffler fits the 440. Thanks for that.

On the 460 muffler - most of the used Sthil ones are in rough shape for the price in my opinion. There is an aftermarket muffler available new called "The duke's muffler with spark screen 440 460" on ebay for $27 shipped. I didn't know they had the deflector/baffle in them or I would have purchased it instead of a used 460 muffler for $29 bucks. * Confirmed the duke muffler does have the 460 baffle btw.

Checking squish when I get home, I picked up some solder on my lunch break. Maybe it will be too high to correct with a base gasket delete and I get to send it off to have the base cut. That would be kinda cool if not too expensive.
Sounds like fun. I grew up on a tree farm and have done a bunch of wood/forest type of business. Run plenty of saws but not modified any so MustangMike is the guy for that. My FT plastics and flywheel are holding up and 440 label I glued back on did not fall off. I do not even really get any thrill out of cutting...just like the end results. The quicker I can cookie up a tree or whatever cutting I am doing the better...a modified would not drastically speed up the overall job time because I take too many breaks but I definitely would like my actual holding the saw cutting time part of the job over quicker and that is where a 462 is looking good. Picture is of oak tree I cookied up today...already have a bunch of it picked up. I have a bad back from lifting firewood in 2005 so I cookie my trees into firewood. Wood dries from the ends for the most part so cookies dry very quickly. I had two logsplitters, one could hook up to backhoe and the other one was a real nice unit but I sold them both because trying to lift sections of trees was too much for me. I usually use my 5 gal. pails of hydraulic fluid I have kicking around for equipment for bar oil..cost me about $5 gal. I have a bunch of bars from old saws and a bunch of Oregon chain from a store liquidation years ago $2-3 a chain so bar and chain costs not much and hydraulic fluid has been ok for years. Tomorrow I will finish cutting cookies and half the big ones and that tree will be totally gone and under cover before the snow and sleet come in tomorrow evening. I think a nice 462 is in future because it would reduce my actual chainsaw carrying time ...and be a blast to run. A modified 462 like MustangMike has would be the ultimate but just can not have the noise. I think you got a great saw project going on and I am really liking watching what you are doing with it.

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slackinoff

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@StihlMagnum440 Nice photo! I like stepping back and looking at a finished job as well. So do you split the cookies for something like a wood stove or furnace? I'm just curios, lots of folks here have fireplaces but very few actual wood stoves or wood burning furnaces.
 

slackinoff

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Squish measured between .0445 and .0465 in different spots. Not sure how thick the FT base gasket is, wanted to figure that out to see if I should just go straight for having the cylinder cut. If anyone has opinions I'd love to hear them.
 

StihlMagnum440

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@StihlMagnum440 Nice photo! I like stepping back and looking at a finished job as well. So do you split the cookies for something like a wood stove or furnace? I'm just curios, lots of folks here have fireplaces but very few actual wood stoves or wood burning furnaces.
No need for splitting and easy to handle and no splinters. The larger ones can easily be stood on end and cut in half or quarters etc if need be. All of it goes in woodstove so free heat and cooking. I had an outdoor woodboiler on a building I rented to college students and even had hot water hooked up to it...saved big dollars. Fuel and electricity were always big expenses here in Maine and going a lot higher now. I had a bandsaw mill and used to do up logs I would get off places I worked and make boards. The trees I am making into cookies for firewood now are on a future house lot and needed to come down. The hillside is ledge and trees were apt to fall down cause of wind. Everything wood gets used. Takes a little longer to cookie tree but then no splitting (one step process) and rapid drying of wood vs split and stack.I have other trees to do so hustling before deep snow.Lucked out and snow we had melted but more coming Tonite.
 

MustangMike

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Ideal squish is about .020. You should have no trouble with a base gasket delete.

Make sure both surfaces are very clean (I use brake cleaner on them) and I like to use the Anerobic gasket (Like Permatex 518).

Don't use too much, but don't miss any spots. Only the compressed portion will harden, the rest will get washed away.

W/O making any cylinder changes, this will give you both a longer compression and power stroke (the distance above the exhaust port) and a longer intake duration, all which may add some power. Compression will also increase due to the reduced combustion chamber.

Make sure the top of your cylinder is clean, as the piston will go a bit higher.
 

slackinoff

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@LoneOak - Yes I agree with that for sure. The saw runs great, tunes easy, starts easy so it's fine as is. But me being me, I'd like to see if I can see a difference in the compression and how it runs. My kit is around 130psi after 6 tanks through it. It's just a number, saw performs well in the real world, but I would really like to see what this does to that number.

@MustangMike - Good info thank you. I have Motoseal from permatex, is there a benefit to using the 518? Looks like the 518 might be thinner and cleaner to remove later? Do you put a thin layer on both surfaces or just one? I have read that these metal FT gaskets are about .015 thick, so that would put me around .030, which is better. I think it will be interesting to see how much this increases compression.
 

MustangMike

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For gasket-less applications I prefer the 518. I only put it on one surface (the base). The big advantage is excess gasket material that is not compressed will not harden and will just wash away and not block anything. It is also very thin. Do not use this on clamshells!

Usually, squish will change by .017 to .018. Ending up between .020 and .025 is ideal! You can sand surfaces lightly with some fine sandpaper before final cleaning. A gasket scraper or wood chisel can be very useful, be careful not to gouge the surfaces.

Good Luck!
 
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