What to look out for on the 440 kit?

[stihl saws]

It's alive! Cranked it today with a few pulls and started tuning. It quit and kicked back a little. Then I notice it's broke the starter rope at the handle knot. I'm not sure how that happened.
After taking the starter off and rewinding/fighting with it 4 times I got it working and cut some cookies.
The starter handle had some really sharp edges inside, that may have caused the rope breakage. I hand turned a drill bit to deburr it.

 

[J_M____]

I would also mention to recheck the flywheel nut after running/tuning a few minutes. I don’t think the flywheel is a perfect fit to the crank taper. I torqued mine to spec but it sheared the key after just a few minutes of running, like the nut had come loose. After retightening the nut it did not loosen up again. I would ditch the Chinese nut in favor of an oem flanged nut if you have a spare.

 

[stihl saws]

I would also mention to recheck the flywheel nut after running/tuning a few minutes. I don’t think the flywheel is a perfect fit to the crank taper. I torqued mine to spec but it sheared the key after just a few minutes of running, like the nut had come loose. After retightening the nut it did not loosen up again. I would ditch the Chinese nut in favor of an oem flanged nut if you have a spare.

I actually lapped the flywheel to the crank with valve grinding compound, then hit it with a 3/8" impact. I think lapping is a necessary step with these somewhat ill fitting parts. The flanged oem nut is definitely better than the one supplied.

 

[jon@camano]

Be sure to check the clearance between the oil pump line and clutch drum. With the issues of the PTO side of the crank being a little too short to fit the e clip on, the clearance was even more critical. My clutch drum wore into the Hutzl oil pump line. I used the OEM oil pump, a much better pump and fit, although quite expensive. The OEM pump line was lower and the drum fit properly allowing the e clip to fit. I tried bending the Hutzl oil line, but must have not had the proper clearance with the clutch drum. Used a Hyway piston and cylinder and have a good running saw. Have been happy with Hyway quality. My MS 660 has a Hyway piston and cylinder as well.

 

[Mattyo]

i had my oil pinion nearly cut through the metal oil line...gotta make sure thats clearanced too

 

[stihl saws]

Be sure to check the clearance between the oil pump line and clutch drum. With the issues of the PTO side of the crank being a little too short to fit the e clip on, the clearance was even more critical. My clutch drum wore into the Hutzl oil pump line. I used the OEM oil pump, a much better pump and fit, although quite expensive. The OEM pump line was lower and the drum fit properly allowing the e clip to fit. I tried bending the Hutzl oil line, but must have not had the proper clearance with the clutch drum. Used a Hyway piston and cylinder and have a good running saw. Have been happy with Hyway quality. My MS 660 has a Hyway piston and cylinder as well.

As my kit was delivered, the clutch drum rubbed on the oiler line. I tweaked it enough to make it work, but I think I'll look for a oem drum. The width is supposed to be less. Sometimes more clearance is better.

 

[J_M____]

My clutch drum was out of round. I used an Oregon drum ( which was made in Canada) and is the same size as the stihl one, the Chinese one was deeper

 

[jon@camano]

The MS 440 was the second Farmertec kit I have built (also built a MS 660). I am not sure whether I will build another. There is a lot of inconstancy regarding the parts quality and the parts count. Also, when you add the price of a good bar and chain, $100-200.00 of OEM and quality AM parts such as piston/cylinder, the real cost is $500-$600.00 for the bigger saw kits. This is roughly 1/2 the cost of a near new saw similar to the kit. Building the MS 440 was enjoyable and frustrating at the same time, but definitely not cost effective- it is a hobby. I have learned a lot about saws from the two kits I assembled. However, I will always enjoy my OEM Stihl saws and their reliability.

It is probably going to take improved quality control from Farmertec for me to consider another kit. Also, why no parts list for the kits? Barcoding the parts would make it much easier for Farmertec to track their parts and ensure their kits were complete.

Merry Christmas everyone.

Jon

 

[Wood Chopper]

My 440 kit runs like a raped ape. Cut the base down to get .019 squish caber rings and everything else as is. The only issue I am working on now is when it idles between cuts for a little longer when I get back on the throttle it dies. Need to dial in the screws a little more? Don't think there is anything else wrong. My 2 other 660 kits don't do this at all.

 

[Wood Chopper]

Having trouble all of a sudden chasing idle on the low side. Idles high and if I turn the low out to get the rpms down wants to die of idle if it idles for more than 15 seconds. (Too much fuel) I haven’t pulled the cover off yet maybe the butterfly stuck open a little bit if I can’t get it sorted out what is the best carb to put in this? My 660 carbs have been easy to tune. 2 of 3 ain’t bad. [emoji108]


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[Wood Chopper]

Walbro HD 50. ?


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[Wood Chopper]

Having trouble all of a sudden chasing idle on the low side. Idles high and if I turn the low out to get the rpms down wants to die of idle if it idles for more than 15 seconds. (Too much fuel) I haven’t pulled the cover off yet maybe the butterfly stuck open a little bit if I can’t get it sorted out what is the best carb to put in this? My 660 carbs have been easy to tune. 2 of 3 ain’t bad. [emoji108]


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Cylinder was coming loose. [emoji849]


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[paragonbuilder]

Cylinder was coming loose. [emoji849]


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That’ll do it...

 

[MustangMike]

Does the hybrid with the Meteor piston have a lot of vibes???

 

[Wood Chopper]

Mike this one is a standard build with the base cut to get .20 squish. I don't think it vibrates much at all. I simply do not think I tightened the bolts enough on this one. When I went to use my 1/4 inch T-27 extension to re tighten the bolts I noticed that the holes in the jug would not let me line up with 2 of the bolts. My T-handle would because its skinnier. So I'm guessing i used that T-handle the first time and did not get enough torque on them. I torqued them good this time. I just cut a some pieces out side, much easier to start and tune. Must have been starting to loosen up a few uses ago and just got worse this past week. Luck I did not melt anything down.

 

[MustangMike]

I'm going to turn this 440 kit into a 460 hybrid. I have a decent oem 460 cylinder and a Meteor piston on the way. It should be interesting.

Does this saw vibrate a lot? The Meteor pistons are heavier than OEM 460.

 

[bottlefed]

Mike this one is a standard build with the base cut to get .20 squish. I don't think it vibrates much at all. I simply do not think I tightened the bolts enough on this one. When I went to use my 1/4 inch T-27 extension to re tighten the bolts I noticed that the holes in the jug would not let me line up with 2 of the bolts. My T-handle would because its skinnier. So I'm guessing i used that T-handle the first time and did not get enough torque on them. I torqued them good this time. I just cut a some pieces out side, much easier to start and tune. Must have been starting to loosen up a few uses ago and just got worse this past week. Luck I did not melt anything down.

What kind of dummy would not torque the cylinder down adequately....... I mean yeah, my 660 jug came loose... but that's different ;-)

Have not done a 440 yet so maybe some others will chime in on the wristpin bearing quality? If its anything like the 660 one then an OEM would be well worth the extra 10 dollars.

 

[MustangMike]

For $10 a pop, I just used OEM piston pin bearings, why risk it?

 

[MustangMike]

So, how are everyone's saws doing? How is the Huztl top end holding up, and how is the Hybrid running?

So far, I have built 5 of these kits, 3 BB (one is in professional use), one with OEM 044 P+C, and one with a HL Supply Doorbuster 460 jug and OEM piston.

One or two washers should be placed in front of the impulse line on the case side because the nipple it too long, all of the carbs provided with the saws have failed on me and been replaced (DDave has a great low cost replacement of a Walbro made by ZAMA), two of my kits came with the wrong brake handle, the control lever will not work the choke on OEM carb unless modified, and I always install OEM piston pin bearing and clips, and an Elastostart rope and handle.

I just got one of the Blue Cover 660 kits running yesterday. These newer kits resolved most of the problems that plagued the earlier kits, see my thread.

 

[StihlMagnum440]

So, how are everyone's saws doing? How is the Huztl top end holding up, and how is the Hybrid running?

So far, I have built 5 of these kits, 3 BB (one is in professional use), one with OEM 044 P+C, and one with a HL Supply Doorbuster 460 jug and OEM piston.

One or two washers should be placed in front of the impulse line on the case side because the nipple it too long, all of the carbs provided with the saws have failed on me and been replaced (DDave has a great low cost replacement of a Walbro made by ZAMA), two of my kits came with the wrong brake handle, the control lever will not work the choke on OEM carb unless modified, and I always install OEM piston pin bearing and clips, and an Elastostart rope and handle.

I just got one of the Blue Cover 660 kits running yesterday. These newer kits resolved most of the problems that plagued the earlier kits, see my thread.

MustangMike, I am new to this forum but have been lurking for years. I notice on the 440 kit several common problems that you guys have done a great job of pointing out and how to remedy them. I have three OEM Stihl chainsaws that I purchased new. I also have a Farmertec 440 kit to play with. You have consistently provided great advice and explained how to fix the shortfalls of the 440 and 660 kits. Thanks.