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What oil is best? and what ratio?

Flatie

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Brian Simonseth

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And im not even a "cool kid"

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junkman

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Thought i had an amsoil failure last night with the post hole drill ,was getting real hot ,making a rattling noise and shutting off ,pulled the muffler ,no score ,ok why wont it stay running ,pulled the air cleaner off ,the 2 intake screws fell out so the intake was not attached ,and gasket was ripped ,bolted it back together and it kept going ,the amsoil did not kill the engine

cool story bro ............huh .........
 

the GOAT

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Thought i had an amsoil failure last night with the post hole drill ,was getting real hot ,making a rattling noise and shutting off ,pulled the muffler ,no score ,ok why wont it stay running ,pulled the air cleaner off ,the 2 intake screws fell out so the intake was not attached ,and gasket was ripped ,bolted it back together and it kept going ,the amsoil did not kill the engine

cool story bro ............huh .........
You better pull the cylinder.



(Just in case)
 

bwalker

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Here's my Husky 525LS trimmer that has 23.3 hours on it. It's been fed a steady diet of XP oil and 90 octane non ethanol gas at 45:1. The black carbon on the piston top and in the exhaust port rubbed off fairly easily. What do you think?





That's some nasty varnish on the skirt. Strato charged engine?
 

bwalker

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To seat rings well you need to run it hard.
Like you said,warm it up then beat the *s-word out of it. I usually don't use synthetic oil the first tank.
I have never had issues seating rings with synthetic oil. Back in the day guys seat rings just fine with castor oil, which has the highest film strength of any two cycle oil. The key is a proper plateau hone and a good Kentucky tune up once the motor is fully warmed up
 

bwalker

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I tear a newly ported saw down after a few tanks to see how the transfers are working and it's a good opportunity to see how a oil is doing.
What can you possibly learn about oil after a few tanks? Nothing IMO.
 

bwalker

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Ok. Explain to me if u can see the underside of the piston at the connecting rod to see if the crank is blued or the bottomend connecting rod to see if its blued or see the intake skirt to see wear if u r looking through the plug hole or exhaust? Ive seen lots of saws that looked like hammered hell internally that was still running
Most of the stuff your looking for isn't an oil issue, as much as one from running lean. A rod and crank should never go blue, regardless of oil or ratio unless your too lean.
 
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Keith Gandy

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Most of the stuff your looking for isn't an oil issue, as much as one from running lean. A rod and crank should never go blow, regardless of oil or ratio unless your too lean.
But the illustrations I posted of kl200 vs stihl orange was in a 550 autotune. Clear wear from 1 oil to the other?
 

bwalker

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But the illustrations I posted of kl200 vs stihl orange was in a 550 autotune. Clear wear from 1 oil to the other?
I never seen the pictures, so I can't comment.
I am no fan of Orange bottle. Just about any aircooled oil is better. However, I highly doubt it was responsible for a huge differance in wear in a short time...if that's what your infering.
 

Keith Gandy

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I never seen the pictures, so I can't comment.
I am no fan of Orange bottle. Just about any aircooled oil is better. However, I highly doubt it was responsible for a huge differance in wear in a short time...if that's what your infering.
Kl200 8 tanksmoments_10204204350629522.jpgStihl orange 2 tanks20160422_181008.jpg20160422_180958.jpg
 
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