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What oil is best? and what ratio?

CR500

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So what about air filter oil?

Going to try the Maxima cleaner and oil on the 661

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Keith Gandy

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How about shots of the same side of the piston?
No sorry I looked back through my pics and I only took pic of intake side to show residual on the piston. U will have to take my word or not that the other side looked the same. Thats why I knew immediately when I used the Stihl oil there was a difference in oils. Ill still stick to that theory and using kl200
 

CR888

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Kieth your 550 issues were nothing to do with orange bottle Stihl oil. A mirror may be a better diagnostic tool for your oil theories. On another note did anyone read the recent links in the AS oil thread where the use of sulphur in synthetics was outlined. The additive helping scuffing that makes your synthetics stink that no one recognises exists in such oils? LOL!
 

Keith Gandy

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Kieth your 550 issues were nothing to do with orange bottle Stihl oil. A mirror may be a better diagnostic tool for your oil theories. On another note did anyone read the recent links in the AS oil thread where the use of sulphur in synthetics was outlined. The additive helping scuffing that makes your synthetics stink that no one recognises exists in such oils? LOL!
What do u think caused it CR?
 

CR888

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[QUOTEseizureh Gandy, post: 108386, member: 341"]What do u think caused it CR?[/QUOTE]
Mild siezure Kieth, could be a result of a number of things from going real hard right off the bad causing rapid piston expansion that the cylinder couldn't' keep up with. Could be poorly mixed gas, maybe run hard cold without AT system calibrating itself to new oil/ratio making it too lean. Too much heat is the cause. Same basic principles still apply with the use of AT systems.
 
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Keith Gandy

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[QUOTEseizureh Gandy, post: 108386, member: 341"]What do u think caused it CR?
Mild siezure Kieth, could be a result of a number of things from going real hard right off the bad causing rapid piston expansion that the cylinder couldn't' keep up with. Could be poorly mixed gas, maybe run hard cold without AT system calibrating itself to new oil/ratio making it too lean. Too much heat is the cause. Same basic principles still apply with the use of AT systems.[/QUOTE]
I can believe that. I know after I rerung this 550 and was breakin it in with the new ring I cranked it and made 14" cuts one after another only to stop to refuel. Im not so sure I agree with a rebuilt saw or a new saw in cranking it and running wide open under full load to break in. Im more comfortable with a warm up curve and interval runs without nonstop wot?
 

Redbull661

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more stuff to add to the test. lol no idea on the oil... @tree monkey gave it to me

QgHy0zy.jpg



36" .404 RS chains made in order off the roll - 14 per roll.

lnADJzY.jpg
 

CoreyB

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more stuff to add to the test. lol no idea on the oil... @tree monkey gave it to me

QgHy0zy.jpg



36" .404 RS chains made in order off the roll - 14 per roll.

lnADJzY.jpg
Are you testing red armor as well. How much oil do you need to test. Like 6oz, 13oz, full quart ?
 

CR888

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Kieth you want a good amount of load & throttle for breakin but you also want a properly jetted carb and saw at operating temp first. You may have increased oil maybe and gone hammer and tong before the AT adjusted to new ratio (running lean) and not yet warmed up. Better to realise that than do it again thinking K2 will save the day. We all make mistakes, I have done my fair share. Learning to do things better as a result is the key. I don't think your stupid one bit, we are all here to learn stuff.......maybe no so much from this thread but you know what I mean. Lol
 

CR500

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Back to fuel color...

Made some mix with some E10 with some 2R and the color when mixed was a light purple very noticeable.

Now with Non E, the color is very dark, noticeable that it is mixed but not as light colored as E10.

It would seem that this would lead to carbon differences between the 2 fuel types.

The Dolmar ran very good after a minor H adjustment.... from Klotz 40:1 to 2R at 32:1 had to be leaned out a wiggle.

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Keith Gandy

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Back to fuel color...

Made some mix with some E10 with some 2R and the color when mixed was a light purple very noticeable.

Now with Non E, the color is very dark, noticeable that it is mixed but not as light colored as E10.

It would seem that this would lead to carbon differences between the 2 fuel types.

The Dolmar ran very good after a minor H adjustment.... from Klotz 40:1 to 2R at 32:1 had to be leaned out a wiggle.

Sent from my non internal combustion device.
Not following u? How will color affect carbon? I have noticed my 87 efree is darker yellow and my 93 efree is almost clear
 

CR500

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Not following u? How will color affect carbon? I have noticed my 87 efree is darker yellow and my 93 efree is almost clear
Maybe a chemical differences between the 2 minus the ethanol part

Could be different fuel companies, I still believe that all brands of fuel are different, probably wrong I know lol

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Keith Gandy

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Maybe a chemical differences between the 2 minus the ethanol part

Could be different fuel companies, I still believe that all brands of fuel are different, probably wrong I know lol

Sent from my non internal combustion device.
I couldnt begin to know. Redbull showed there r differences from one supplier to the next even with the same octanes. How easily combustible each one would be would be a big factor? Maybe Ben knows the anwser on fuel quality
 
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