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What oil is best? and what ratio?

G

Greenerpastures

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What's the deal with flashpoints? Higher the better? Not sure how to interpret those figures.
My take on it is, lower flash point oils get lit up sooner,
this gives them more tiem to burn clean, leaving no ash but probably
a hotter saw which also helps a cat to do its work, but that kind of heat
is not what I like.
The good synthetic oils have higher flash points, and thats because syntheic
oil can work at higher tempratures, this results in these oils not getting lit
up too soon, thus they spend a little more time oiling before they are spat out,
not as cleany for the very high flashpoint ones, and that is the compromise.
 

Keith Gandy

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Trying to get Red Armor, that I do understand to be a good oil.
Wouldn't mind waiting on it to come, but its not available locally.
So what has one to do, earlier I got a bottle of Husky XP to try,
a local man who uses huskies says it great, will know in due course.
All I need now is for someone to say its crap, and I will have another ornament.
Klotz kl200, echo red armor, yamalube 2r , dolmar/makita/poulan synthetic would be safe choices . Stihl Ultra being one of my least favorites
 

Keith Gandy

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My take on it is, lower flash point oils get lit up sooner,
this gives them more tiem to burn clean, leaving no ash but probably
a hotter saw which also helps a cat to do its work, but that kind of heat
is not what I like.
The good synthetic oils have higher flash points, and that because syntheic
oil can work at higher tempratures, this results in these oils not getting lit
up in time, thus they spend a little more time oiling before they are spat out,
not as cleany for the very high flashpoint ones, and that is the compromise.
A higher flash point like the Motul 800t in normal wood cutting and a ratio tuned rich say 32to1 is difficult to combust completely. Takes a heavy load and higher temps such as milling to completely combust and form a good carbon crown with transfer
 

RI Chevy

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So would Motul 800 be better run at 40:1 or 50:1?
In a ported saw of course.
 
G

Greenerpastures

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A higher flash point like the Motul 800t in normal wood cutting and a ratio tuned rich say 32to1 is difficult to combust completely. Takes a heavy load and higher temps such as milling to completely combust and form a good carbon crown with transfer
And that I agree with, I would take the Castrol 2T or Motol 710,
there is not enough power in a saw for these oils to fail, the others are over kill
in a saw engine, a bike yes, a racing bike definately.
 
G

Greenerpastures

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I had to run it at 42to1 on my ported 461 tuned to 14700 and a 28" buried to combust it and form carbon on the crown
And that is what I would think too, but am only learning, I would not use
that oil in a saw, as the saw would need to be put under too much pressure
to burn cleanly, its the opposite of what we normally want, a relarively cool
running saw that burns its fuel without getting too hot.
 

Keith Gandy

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IMO each oil has its characteristics that react to combustion, but each saw will react differently with load, tune, and temp. To different oils. From the testing Ive done each saw has to be setup with an oil to the paticular job it will do. Guess what Im tryin to say is what works for one may not for another. This is Red Armor in my 346xp at 40to1 and tuned to 14800 with a 16" bar for limbing and smallwood. In my mind thats a good balance between being safe on the rich side alil and combusting enough for performance1502016905312.jpg
 
G

Greenerpastures

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IMO each oil has its characteristics that react to combustion, but each saw will react differently with load, tune, and temp. To different oils. From the testing Ive done each saw has to be setup with an oil to the paticular job it will do. Guess what Im tryin to say is what works for one may not for another. This is Red Armor in my 346xp at 40to1 and tuned to 14800 with a 16" bar for limbing and smallwood. In my mind thats a good balance between being safe on the rich side alil and combusting enough for performanceView attachment 96098
I think me and you is on the same page, and after a day looking into oil,
I conclude the oil should be chosen and mixed to suit the situation.
If putting a super oil in a saw causes it or requires it to run warmer, then get it out.
Lubrication comes first, then tune to keep her cool and clean as possible.
 

RI Chevy

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I use Red Armor because of what you posted Keith. Lol
It does perform well.
I also like the VP oil too.
I will admit, I wasn't impressed with the Amsoil Saber.
 
G

Greenerpastures

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Ive used the oils I listed a few posts back in small handhelds to ported saws noodling all mixed at 40to1 with 97efree to 93 efree. All have performed really well
And I may not be posting at all only for someone on another forum
said Echo powermixX leaves ash behind, thus my search as to find
out how this is possible given it is FD and goes woof quicker than
any other oil, thats why I added the list so one could investigate.
 

Keith Gandy

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I use Red Armor because of what you posted Keith. Lol
It does perform well.
I also like the VP oil too.
I will admit, I wasn't impressed with the Amsoil Saber.
Ive used a good bit of Amsoil Saber and it produced the most Ash depoist of any oil Ive used
 
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