What oil is best? and what ratio?

[ajschainsaws]

And a good spark screen

 

[Keith Gandy]

And a Febreeze air filter

 

[Dub11]

And a Febreeze air filter

Need to ask Bruce where they got that filtered underwear for Bobby at HLS lol

 

[Cracker Boy]

Its all over rated run what works its all advertisement.just like budwiser beer it sucks but everyone drinks it due to advertisement.pbr is a much better beer 2nd oldwst breery in u.s. .i remember my dad growing up using 30 weight motor oil as 2 stroke mix in saws and boat motors and never had a problem.

 

[Keith Gandy]

Need to ask Bruce where they got that filtered underwear for Bobby at HLS lol

 

[Keith Gandy]

 

[sawmikaze]

Ported saws run pretty hot due to higher HP and higher RPMs than a stock saw.

When did they start doin that ?

 

[bwalker]

I moved to Montana back in July. Low and behold I now have a local source for Red Armour. I picked up a pint for $12, which is obscene.. Anyways, I have ran only a little bit of it through my Stihl ms 260 and Toro snowblower. Doesn't smoke much or stink is about all I can say at this point.

 

[MustangMike]

When did they start doin that ?

You been on vacation???

 

[Cracker Boy]

Amsoil saber or echo red guard at 40 to 1 100 low lead ftw

 

[Keith Gandy]

I moved to Montana back in July. Low and behold I now have a local source for Red Armour. I picked up a pint for $12, which is obscene.. Anyways, I have ran only a little bit of it through my Stihl ms 260 and Toro snowblower. Doesn't smoke much or stink is about all I can say at this point.

Ben could u explain the flash point again please. I remember u saying choosing oil upon the flash point was a mistake.

 

[Cracker Boy]

This is 20 plus tanks on a 036 before a porter on here built my saw it was running fat nuff said and look how clean it is on saber 40/1 with 100 low lead.he was very impressed and contacted me and asked how many tanks what brand oil fuel and ratio.i told him he said dont change a thing.

 

[bwalker]

Ben could u explain the flash point again please. I remember u saying choosing oil upon the flash point was a mistake.

Yea, it' a worthless number related to shipping a product and not much else.
Specifically it measures the lowest temp at which heated vapours ignite when exposed to an ignition source. IE it measures the temp at which the dilluent ignites.

 

[Greenerpastures]

Its all over rated run what works its all advertisement.just like budwiser beer it sucks but everyone drinks it due to advertisement.pbr is a much better beer 2nd oldwst breery in u.s. .i remember my dad growing up using 30 weight motor oil as 2 stroke mix in saws and boat motors and never had a problem.

I would love to have a saw that would take 30 wt in the mix, thing is EPA
made sure it won't work, at least on a standard saw, and I do not want to do
a lot of work to any saw just to be able to use a specific oil especially as
I always end up selling my saws, they seem to entise on lookers that had a bad time with their
own, and when they see one running well, you can tell by the look on their face, mention the
guy over the road from them was interested and they go home with a saw.

 

[Greenerpastures]

Yea, it' a worthless number related to shipping a product and not much else.
Specifically it measures the lowest temp at which heated vapours ignite when exposed to an ignition source. IE it measures the temp at which the dilluent ignites.

And that same low flash point gives more opportunity to burn the oil in the mix
and off the cylinder and piston, I would say not good as some oil needs to remain,
so tell me how to keep a film on the innards, higher flash point is how, but not
crazy high or you will end up with too much oil to create carbon build up.

You could put less of the higher flash point oil in, and thats what amsoil do,
amongst other things, the shear strength of the amsoil is also very high and thus
great protection.
50:1 amsoil keeps things oiled because it sticks around.

A two-stroke engine actually has two very different kinds of lubrication needs.
The lower end crank and rod bearings prefer a slow drip of a very heavy viscosity oil,
while the top end parts wear best with a deluge of a very lightweight oil.
Since these are two very opposite lubrication needs, you have to choose whom you want to pleaase.
You can buy cranks and crank bearings that will all offer similar performance, but everyone
wants to do whatever can be done to preserve a good running piston / cylinder set.
Given all this, heavier premixes of lighter viscosity oils are more desirable to most.

Does anyone actually run amsoil saber in samll saws, it seems like massive over kill
to do so.

 

[Cracker Boy]

I would love to have a saw that would take 30 wt in the mix, thing is EPA
made sure it won't work, at least on a standard saw, and I do not want to do
a lot of work to any saw just to be able to use a specific oil especially as
I always end up selling my saws, they seem to entise on lookers that had a bad time with their
own, and when they see one running well, you can tell by the look on their face, mention the
guy over the road from them was interested and they go home with a saw.

Im just sayin.i dont but 608 pages later we are still at it.use what works best for you i personally run what i have prev posted and im in fl were the heat is a saws worst enemy.i run the piss out of my saws.

 

[Keith Gandy]

And that same low flash point gives more opportunity to burn the oil in the mix
and off the cylinder and piston, I would say not good as some oil needs to remain,
so tell me how to keep a film on the innards, higher flash point is how, but not
crazy high or you will end up with too much oil to create carbon build up.

You could put less of the higher flash point oil in, and thats what amsoil do,
amongst other things, the shear strength of the amsoil is also very high and thus
great protection.
50:1 amsoil keeps things oiled because it sticks around.

A two-stroke engine actually has two very different kinds of lubrication needs.
The lower end crank and rod bearings prefer a slow drip of a very heavy viscosity oil,
while the top end parts wear best with a deluge of a very lightweight oil.
Since these are two very opposite lubrication needs, you have to choose whom you want to pleaase.
You can buy cranks and crank bearings that will all offer similar performance, but everyone
wants to do whatever can be done to preserve a good running piston / cylinder set.
Given all this, heavier premixes of lighter viscosity oils are more desirable to most.

Does anyone actually run amsoil saber in samll saws, it seems like massive over kill
to do so.

Reisdual oil in the bottomend is a result of ratio used and the state the equipment was running in when shutoff. The topend needs no lubrication on the piston crown and combustion chamber which only impedes the combustion process IMO. The outer cylinder walls and rings only need lubrication for friction reduction and ring seal. Thats the way I see it but may be off

 

[Greenerpastures]

Reisdual oil in the bottomend is a result of ratio used and the state the equipment was running in when shutoff. The topend needs no lubrication on the piston crown and combustion chamber which only impedes the combustion process IMO. The outer cylinder walls and rings only need lubrication for friction reduction and ring seal. Thats the way I see it but may be off

Definately not off, my concern is with these new oils is they are making
them go boom too early above the cylinder so they burn out in full,
this does add to the heat factor,
and to do this the oils are lighter viscosity in general, not so good for
down under as they run off the cylinder wall and bearings.
Im not clear on what an oil film on the piston top would acheive,
would it act like solder during the tinning process and conduct heat
into the piston, if so then bad, but the same oil film will also be on
the cylinder wall, and that might be good as it would conduct heat out
to the fins, oddly a layer of soot keeps things cool, but who wants to
go down that road.
Either way, I have decided on to try Mobil 1 2T racing in my 7900,
for I know that saw runs hot because of the slr type muffler,
and using this oil will protect it better as it has high shere strength.
I will tune her up and see how clean she stays.

My other saws will be fine with either Husqvarna XP or Echo PowerblendX.
Am going to run the power belend in the Echo in any event, and XP in the 6100.
This will allow me to test the oils instead of talking about them.

Thanks & Regards, john

 

[Keith Gandy]

Definately not off, my concern is with these new oils is they are making
them go boom too early above the cylinder so they burn out in full,
this does add to the heat factor,
and to do this the oils are lighter viscosity in general, not so good for
down under as they run off the cylinder wall and bearings.
Im not clear on what an oil film on the piston top would acheive,
would it act like solder during the tinning process and conduct heat
into the piston, if so then bad, but the same oil film will also be on
the cylinder wall, and that might be good as it would conduct heat out
to the fins, oddly a layer of soot keeps things cool, but who wants to
go down that road.
Either way, I have decided on to try Mobil 1 2T racing in my 7900,
for I know that saw runs hot because of the slr type muffler,
and using this oil will protect it better as it has high shere strength.
I will tune her up and see how clean she stays.

My other saws will be fine with either Husqvarna XP or Echo PowerblendX.
Am going to run the power belend in the Echo in any event, and XP in the 6100.
This will allow me to test the oils instead of talking about them.

Thanks & Regards, john

In my thinking a layer of carbon on the piston crown and exhaust will act as an insulator and prevent heat from soaking the piston and cylinder. Just a thought

 

[Greenerpastures]

Yes, carbon would insulate a bit, but its not
good inside the engine, it can flake and destroy
or build up and then something hits it and more
damage.
Try heating something with soot on it, it too
prevents the heat from getting through it.
On a slightly different note,
Lots of people here get their chimney cleaned every year, they burn plastic containers in ther stove to get rid of them, this sticks to the nice clean chimney.
I let some soot get on there, then burn my oil
based waste, never have a problem.
Anyway, will live and learn.