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What oil is best? and what ratio?

Keith Gandy

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wear on the intake side of the piston - all the 661s are like that. Just ask @Mastermind




ported runs hotter. which is what klotz needs IMO. I bet the 36:1 would burn better in the ported 661. Or possibly use less of it, in the non ported saw.

for example - my ported 661 runs ~50 F hotter then that Arctic saw with just a muffler mod timing advance.






Maybe something got past the air filter. Or it's a burr. It's not deep at all.

We will see if the new boot makes the bog go away. Bog only happened when I was limbing with a 36".

Anyone who hasn't watched the video part of that post on the klotz. Should.

Jug = dirty up top
Piston top = wet black soot - easily wiped away with finger
piston skirts = have the most oil on the skirts I've seen to date.
bottom end = no small pool of oil in the bottom end, like I've seen with others. No oil pooling in the torex heads on intake side like I've seen with others.

So in summary = lots of oil up top. not so much on the bottom end.

top end = more oil then others I've tested
bottom end = less oil then others I've tested

would 40 or 45:1 balance all that out? only way to know is to run it.
U have something wacky with that saw Redbull. Id pressure check it when u put it back together or if its together use wd40 to attempt to find an airleak around the seals and intake/boot system
 

Keith Gandy

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I'll run some schaeffers through it. That is a known. We know what that should look like.


and can someone tell me W T F this crap is in the top of my jug? To me it looks like little bits of carbon...saw some on the top of the piston as well.

pFmFBCm.jpg

X4Hp2pn.jpg
What part r u calling dirty on the cylinder? Other than being alil wet on top of the piston everything looks as it should with the oil?
 

jmssaws

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It looks clean to me,to clean really.
The only way it can be clean and without carbon is to not burn it. A 661 will be richer than your average saw so maybe less oil would help. I'm no oil pro at all but I do know what a saw looks like that's burning oil and one that's not.
 

Keith Gandy

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If it were mine I would pressure check it, grease the air filter flange and centerpost, and maybe even a outer filter if its letting that much trash by. If running the kl200 I would run 42to1.
 

jmssaws

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That's exactly why I got MaxFlo coming. It's sickening how plugged up the filter gets with just one tank!

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One tank?
Porting them I'd go make a couple cuts and was amazed out how much would be in the filter. Worst I have ever seen
 

Time's Standing Stihl

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Ya, it's pretty sad, you can't just fill up the tanks and go. I got to smack my af everytime I pull into the gas station for a fill up.

That's my only complaint with the 661, they got everything else right

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

Keith Gandy

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But if u r having a problem with the saw with an air leak or the air filter letting dirt by that has nothing to do with the oil? Ive posted many pics with kl200 and none looked like that. What part do u not like in your cylinder? Theres grit in there from the airfilter obviously and the carbon looks as it should other than alil wet on the piston but I believe u have a Mtronics/airleak issue and air filter issue
 

Redbull661

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This is approx my 12th 661. The saw ran absolutely fine except for it bogged with the long bar when limbing. I only run 661s I know how they run. Furthermore if you had watched the video. Then you would of seen the o-rings/washers hung up inside of the old style boot. ie. the cause of the bogg

If the hd2 was THAT bad then it's highly likely we would have seen this happen before...being this is my 12th 661...then I would say likelihood pretty darn high I would of seen it before. Soo the most likely cause is a burr. And that is what Randy said as well.

There is no air leak
There is nothing wrong with the filter

like or dis like has nothing to do with it. Relative to the others it doesn't look as good. And there isn't as much oil in the bottom end as others.

I will run it with HP2 for a few tanks and see what happens. Then maybe some schaeffers.

After that I will run some more techniplate. You tell me the ratio and I will run it.
 

jmssaws

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I always have liked klotz and have ran it for a very long time and original technoplate is my least favorite.
I didn't think it lubed like the others.
 

bwalker

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Keith, could you please post your pics. I haven't seen them.
 

bwalker

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I always have liked klotz and have ran it for a very long time and original technoplate is my least favorite.
I didn't think it lubed like the others.
I have run r50, super techniplate, ski craft and snowmobile klotz. I never thought any of it was that great.
What I have noticed with all Klotz products is the carbon it forms is very dark and really hard.
Currently running Super techniplate in my bike, it's tuned on point so it's burning as clean as possible,but really the only reasons I run it is smell and to band aid a known issue with this particular motor.
 

bwalker

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On other thing to consider when running an ester oil like Klotz, motul 800, K2 or any oil with castor in it the properties for preventing rust in storage are pretty poor.
Klotz even says don't use ST as a storage lube.
 

jmssaws

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I started running benol when I was 18 in dirt bikes because of the smell and just stayed using it.
Is it the greatest? I doubt it
Is it the worst? I doubt it
It's just what I've used for 22 years problem free so I'll keep on using it.
 

jmssaws

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On other thing to consider when running an ester oil like Klotz, motul 800, K2 or any oil with castor in it the properties for preventing rust in storage are pretty poor.
Klotz even says don't use ST as a storage lube.
Lucas is a poor storing oil i heard today.
 
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