Some of this mechanical stuff Ronnie just doesnt understand where we r comin from. He is a test to prove to himself kinda fellowRegardless of how *s-wordty the oil is it can't carbon under the rings without bad rings
You said you were curious about octanes. The fuel dyno test isn't an opinion or theory....it's a fact. It would probably be a different result with a different saw. My test, Keith's, and Redbull's all showed the lowest octane was the slowest. Your saws may prove different. Test them with timed cuts and that'll prove or disprove it.What in the hammering hell does one fuel test mean?
I've spent my entire life building saws and race cars and around performance mechanics and every single one will tell you 87 octane will make the most power.
All you do is get on here and talk about how awesome your stuff is and how terrible everyone else's stuff is,around here we call people like that *a-holes!
Nobody else bashes anybodys stuff,only you.
Incredibly annoying
That's why I'm a Scientist. I have to test and prove it to believe.Some of this mechanical stuff Ronnie just doesnt understand where we r comin from. He is a test to prove to himself kinda fellow
In all honesty we would all get different results everytime probably. I believe these saws r too short of a stroke to detonate and thats the only reason to use higher octane to resist detonation or thats what all readings ive seen say. I believe probably 94 octane down would make the most powerYou said you were curious about octanes. The fuel dyno test isn't an opinion or theory....it's a fact. It would probably be a different result with a different saw. My test, Keith's, and Redbull's all showed the lowest octane was the slowest. Your saws may prove different. Test them with timed cuts and that'll prove or disprove it.
If high test is making more power, on a saw, chances are it wasn't tuned right.What in the hammering hell does one fuel test mean?
I've spent my entire life building saws and race cars and around performance mechanics and every single one will tell you 87 octane will make the most power.
All you do is get on here and talk about how awesome your stuff is and how terrible everyone else's stuff is,around here we call people like that *a-holes!
Nobody else bashes anybodys stuff,only you.
Incredibly annoying
Some stuff u just cant test without highend equipment but grease monkey experience accounts for alot. I know u cant see some of these things we r talkin about mechanically but when u see certain wear and lube on bottoms over and over and then all then sudden u use x product and bam!!! It jumps out over and over in different equipment that theres more visible lube and less wear. I know 100% what Ive seen and believe.That's why I'm a Scientist. I have to test and prove it to believe.
If you get consistent results, the key is consistent, then you've proven one is faster or slower than the other.In all honesty we would all get different results everytime probably. I believe these saws r too short of a stroke to detonate and thats the only reason to use higher octane to resist detonation or thats what all readings ive seen say. I believe probably 94 octane down would make the most power
I agree with the tune statement but two of those tests were in ported mtronic saws. Both showed 87 was the slowest.If high test is making more power, on a saw, chances are it wasn't tuned right.
The only reason for high test is to prevent detonation in high compression motors. Even in them the lowest octane that doesn't detonate always makes the most power. It's not a question, it's a fact.
Something about your Dyno runs was flawed if high test was stronger.
Was the mtronic reset?I agree with the tune statement but two of those tests were in ported mtronic saws. Both showed 87 was the slowest.
I havent tested anything for speed lately but mostly looking for lube, wear, and combustion. With kl200 and super everything from a wear standpoint still looks new and it no doubt combust . Im fooling with 93 efree and chevron techron to see what difference its gonna make on top of the piston compared to 87efree with the same oil and ratioIf you get consistent results, the key is consistent, then you've proven one is faster or slower than the other.
Remember visual observations are subjective not factual. Then, how do you determine what quantity of lubrication in the lower end is sufficient? You're only speculating. Only you can determine what oil you like. They all will work at the correct ratio.Some stuff u just cant test without highend equipment but grease monkey experience accounts for alot. I know u cant see some of these things we r talkin about mechanically but when u see certain wear and lube on bottoms over and over and then all then sudden u use x product and bam!!! It jumps out over and over in different equipment that theres more visible lube and less wear. I know 100% what Ive seen and believe.
That's a Keith and Redbull question since it was their saws.Was the mtronic reset?
If KL200 has a viscosity of 23, that has to be one of the best film strength oils I've seen.I havent tested anything for speed lately but mostly looking for lube, wear, and combustion. With kl200 and super everything from a wear standpoint still looks new and it no doubt combust . Im fooling with 93 efree and chevron techron to see what difference its gonna make on top of the piston compared to 87efree with the same oil and ratio
Did u see the oil on side of that piston? Thats not speculation but a fact? Either its there or its not and its alot less with other oils. It was so much that I pulled back to 42to1Remember visual observations are subjective not factual. Then, how do you determine what quantity of lubrication in the lower end is sufficient? You're only speculating. Only you can determine what oil you like. They all will work at the correct ratio.
That's a Keith and Redbull question since it was their saws.
Ive been using the Supertech/Citgo oil. I dont see anything wrong with it? Almost had no smell
Mine wasnt reset and it takes more than 4 cuts like I made in the video to recalibrate. Mike said it took a good while for his 550 to settle down after changing octanesRemember visual observations are subjective not factual. Then, how do you determine what quantity of lubrication in the lower end is sufficient? You're only speculating. Only you can determine what oil you like. They all will work at the correct ratio.
That's a Keith and Redbull question since it was their saws.
So unfortunately back to back Dyno tests when changing things with these saws are inconclusive. Ron did you retune your saw between tests?Mine wasnt reset and it takes more than 4 cuts like I made in the video to recalibrate. Mike said it took a good while for his 550 to settle down after changing octanes
I just talk with a guy with a Nova with 468 Stroker with 11:1 ratio. 500+hp. Said his car ran best on 91 octane and would run on 89So unfortunately back to back Dyno tests when changing things with these saws are inconclusive. Ron did you retune your saw between tests?
Those wash marks just past the squish are barely thereKevin I wonder why the wash marks close up if u go back to pump gas?
The crown in fully coated with carbon, except slight transferr wash marksall my piston looks like that. Actually all my pistons on the other saws look like that. Everyone will say you're to rich and the extra oil washed the piston clean.
The fuels evaporation curve plays a huge role in the power produced. VP SEF is formulated to start evaporating early and be fully evaporated by 200f (IIRC). Other fuels get fully evaporated at 350f ......... And a few were above 450fI'm banging my head against a wall here but how can fuel that's less flammable make more power?
Octane is fuels resistance to detonatin,you want the lowest possible octane you can run without detonating and that will make the most power.
Would NOT run on 89?I just talk with a guy with a Nova with 468 Stroker with 11:1 ratio. 500+hp. Said his car ran best on 91 octane and would run on 89