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What Iron are you running?

czar800

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Thanks, it's been a good combine for us. Those pictures are from a a few months ago when I rebuild the differentials. That building is a few years old now and it's to small!!!
 

Yukon Stihl

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View attachment 11243 My real job ride for the winter, ol '94.
I used to have a 88 with a 671 as a fuel delivery truck.I had a mechanic change injectors on it,he did something wrong and after startup it was idling nice then began to speed up....went to runaway in a hurry.He had a piece of plywood trying to choke the air off it wasn't slowing it down,i spun the fuel filter off and that killed it.
After it died i realized my face was about 6 inches from the block as i was spinning the filter off,wildest rush I've ever had working on a diesel.Been gun shy of starting Jimmys that have just been worked on since.The fuel tank had about 2500 gallons in it at the same time.
 

Al Smith

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Two Ferguson TO 20's,one with a Davis loader,both with big bore kits .Three D4 Cats ,1940,42,46.1953 Oliver OC-6 crawler . 1962 CJ5 Jeep .

Old Jeeps were my dads thing .He did at least a dozen frame off rebuilds .This is the last one he ever did.Parts from three to make one .I've got enough parts to build another one .

1946 JD A, 1953 JD 70 gasoline.

The Fergy with the loader had a cracked block .I must have used 5 pounds of nickle welding rod getting it back together .Must be okay I've had it since 1976 and it still does pretty good .

Cast iron can be tricky to weld .Some you need preheat and some not .The easiest is John Deere,the worst is Caterpillar .
 

exSW

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Cast iron can be tricky to weld .Some you need preheat and some not .The easiest is John Deere,the worst is Caterpillar .

I was putting an addition on a guys shop years ago. I watched him take about three days to prep and then weld a popped water jacket on a D5. When he was all done he coated the whole area with JB. It held,that machine was around for years.
 

Yukon Stihl

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Cast iron can be tricky to weld .Some you need preheat and some not .The easiest is John Deere,the worst is Caterpillar .[/QUOTE]
I have 5.9 cummins with a 16" crack on the bottom of the water jacket.The truck was free so i'm going to try and weld it this summer.Any tips?
 

Mag Craft

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Cast iron can be tricky to weld .Some you need preheat and some not .The easiest is John Deere,the worst is Caterpillar .
I have 5.9 cummins with a 16" crack on the bottom of the water jacket.The truck was free so i'm going to try and weld it this summer.Any tips?[/QUOTE]

No tips here but I am interested in how it comes out. Are you going to tig it and what kind of rod are you planning on using.
 

Mark71gtx

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For a repair of that size on something that has the potential to have you left stranded, I would seek out a local welder who specializes in such repairs. If you ask around enough you can probably find the right guy. I weld for a living, but I have never welded cast. I wouldn't do it myself. I would pay someone with experience so I wouldn't have to gain my experience "the hard way." I have seen farmers braze blocks back together and they would last 20+ years, but there is always Murphy's law...
 

exSW

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Cast iron can be tricky to weld .Some you need preheat and some not .The easiest is John Deere,the worst is Caterpillar .
[QUOTE ]
I have 5.9 cummins with a 16" crack on the bottom of the water jacket.The truck was free so i'm going to try and weld it this summer.Any tips?[/QUOTE]

Last pressurized cast I had welded I had done by a certified welder/pipefitter. Power plant guy. I think it's still holding. Been thirty years.


Is this a "53" block? Do a search there is a ton of info out there on those.
 
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Yukon Stihl

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I have 5.9 cummins with a 16" crack on the bottom of the water jacket.The truck was free so i'm going to try and weld it this summer.Any tips?

No tips here but I am interested in how it comes out. Are you going to tig it and what kind of rod are you planning on using.[/QUOTE]
Not sure on what to do yet.I've begun doing some research on the interwebs to see other peoples solutions.But that really doesn't help because someone has done it each way and posted a video about it.
I had an old guy fix a block for me when i was wet behind the ears.It had a big fist sized hole in between the water jacket and oil pan rail,con rod went for a vacation.He told me to make a patch out of heavy steel that would fit in the hole.I used some old 1/2" steel plate,cut and grind to fit.He welded it up for me,i plastiguaged the crank bearings and the results looked good.Built the motor and drove the car for 4 yrs the traded it in.Saw it driving around for years after.
Thought about doing it with Lockstitch products too.
First i have to see how bad the crack actually is,when i found it last fall i didn't want to add water to see how much was leaking,soon the freezing threat will be gone.
 

Al Smith

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What I'd do on that water jacket is stitch weld and peen .Takes forever it seems .If you can get it sewn back together sand blast the area and cover it with fiberglass .Then run a bunch of "water glass " through the system .

I fiberglassed the water jacket on a Cat D4 pony motor over 30 years ago and it's still holding .Kind of odd, I had more money in rebuilding the pony motor than I did reringing the diesel and having inserts put in the cylinder head .
 

mdavlee

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I'd buy a used 55 block out of a junkyard. You may get it welded and it hold or it may be futile. I weld for a living and won't weld one of those and expect it to last with the way those blocks were cast.
 

junkman

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View attachment 5546 440 4V. It is in a stalled restoration right now. I need to cough up a bunch of cash to finish it up. When it is done, it will be B5 blue with blue interior, bucket seats, console, auto on floor, A/C, PS, HEMI suspension, just like it was when it was new.
Do you have the stock dual snorkle air cleaner for it ?
 

jakethesnake

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On a crack on cast it's good to drill a hole at the en d of the cracks about a quarter inch away from each end of the crack that helps to stop the split from cracking again The cast iron I have welded I heat it with a torch first then weld then heat it after the weld and use the torch to let a "big" area slowly cool I've done a few cast jobs and that's what works for me. On small jobs you do the same process then bury it in floor dry in a barrel that insulates it for the super slow cool down. Hope this is helpful to someone it does work but it is a tricky situation
 

chainsawman2011

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My Dads first dozer was a gas powered Oliver. He rigged up some make shift hydraulics to it. Wish I had that old girl. Here is a pic from the archives. Oh the memories......

View attachment 826

Yup looks like an old Oliver cleetrack my grandpa had one that he used on the family sod farm here in Michigan he later had a couple td6s


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