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Deets066

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Not sure about the bog Al, sure it's not the choke?
 

drf256

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Ya know, I'm wondering if the butterfly needs to be drilled?

I know from my hot rodding days, engines that pull more air need the butterflies drilled for idle. Otherwise, they need the butterfly open to idle correctly too much, and it exposes the idle slot and floods the motor.

@Terry Syd ?
 

paragonbuilder

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Ya know, I'm wondering if the butterfly needs to be drilled?

I know from my hot rodding days, engines that pull more air need the butterflies drilled for idle. Otherwise, they need the butterfly open to idle correctly too much, and it exposes the idle slot and floods the motor.

@Terry Syd ?
If you do I think it needs to be opposite the notch. And if it doesn't work you can solder it up.


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Terry Syd

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Drilling the throttle plate or putting a notch opposite the idle notch will lean out the idle, but so will more seat pressure on the metering valve. A couple of washers under the spring will make it more difficult to lift the valve and will lean out the idle. It works similar to dropping the float bowl level in a float bowl carb, it takes more 'suction' to pull the fuel up from the bowl.

You may have a stronger metering spring sitting around, why not give it a try before drilling the throttle plate.
 

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Opposite the notch or enlarge the notch?
If you enlarge the notch it is still pulling the air over the idle jet pulling fuel. If you drill it opposite it adds air without fuel.
Also it's harder to solder the notch smaller, but a hole can be filled and redrilled pretty easy.


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drf256

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I just checked the saw. My idle screw, where its running its best, is 1-3/16 turned out.

The saw take a while to come down to idle. It still wants to race a bit before finally dropping down. It talke maybe 5 seconds to drop to 3000 rpm.

If I had an airLeak, wouldn't my idle screw be out even more?

Just wondering if I should pressure check it again.
 

drf256

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Drilling the throttle plate or putting a notch opposite the idle notch will lean out the idle, but so will more seat pressure on the metering valve. A couple of washers under the spring will make it more difficult to lift the valve and will lean out the idle. It works similar to dropping the float bowl level in a float bowl carb, it takes more 'suction' to pull the fuel up from the bowl.

You may have a stronger metering spring sitting around, why not give it a try before drilling the throttle plate.
@Terry Syd

I don't have another spring. I have the lever set around .015 lower than it should be. Should I try to take it further?

It's loading up with fuel when it idles. If I lean out the L screw, the saw stumbles to accelerate when the problem is not there-between cuts when it hasn't idled for long.

Are there multiple idle ports for fuel?

I'm thoroughly confused here.
 

Terry Syd

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I don't have another spring. I have the lever set around .015 lower than it should be. Should I try to take it further?

It's loading up with fuel when it idles. If I lean out the L screw, the saw stumbles to accelerate when the problem is not there-between cuts when it hasn't idled for long.

OK, if it stumbles when you lean out the L screw, you can probably bump up the low speed circuit (this may help with the low speed torque), however you will have to lean out the idle and the ramping of the fuel. Since you don't have a another stronger spring to try, I suggest you try to find some very small washers to shim up the metering spring, failing that, that you cut a few discs from a tin can to shim up the spring. I used to have a nice thick tin can of soft steel that made great shims, I must have used it for 20 years or more - I don't know if you can get those anymore, but you get the idea. Soft steel, aluminium, whatever you've got on hand.

Dropping the metering lever height is a stop gap measure. You may be working the diaphragm towards the limit of it's flexibility. The best bet is to use a stronger spring or at least try to shim it up to add some pre-load.

This is one of those moments when a tuner wishes he had a box of various springs to try.
 

drf256

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This is frustrating the hell out of me.

I'm not even sure if my others haven't done this. I just may be more attentive now.

Again, under normal use there's no issue. Let it idle for, let's say, 30 seconds and it wants to die when you pull the trigger. Let it idle normally between cuts, no issues.

Is it possible that it's just pulling so much vacuum it's pulling fuel out of the orifices?

This saw has a short intake duration and a flat wide port, unlike the others I've done.

I'm almost at the point of pulling the jug again and giving it 6* more intake duration.
 

paragonbuilder

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Kinda weird that it takes so long to come down from idle. Sure does sound like it's getting air from somewhere.


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Deets066

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This is frustrating the hell out of me.

I'm not even sure if my others haven't done this. I just may be more attentive now.

Again, under normal use there's no issue. Let it idle for, let's say, 30 seconds and it wants to die when you pull the trigger. Let it idle normally between cuts, no issues.

Is it possible that it's just pulling so much vacuum it's pulling fuel out of the orifices?

This saw has a short intake duration and a flat wide port, unlike the others I've done.

I'm almost at the point of pulling the jug again and giving it 6* more intake duration.
what is your intake at now? I'm sure you said it but I can't remember
 

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Pull the air filter, saw idling, take a light and look into the carb, what is it doing?

If it is slow to come down to idle, you need to richen the low side. Try that and report back.
 

drf256

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what is your intake at now? I'm sure you said it but I can't remember
Im at 74 I believe.

Pull the air filter, saw idling, take a light and look into the carb, what is it doing?

If it is slow to come down to idle, you need to richen the low side. Try that and report back.
I'll try that Joey.
 
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