Ugly Stihl 064 overhaul

[PA Dan]

Seeing I'm on the muffler..
Do I open this up slightly? Leave it?
It has the factory front outlet cover too.

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I would open it to all the back edges like Steve said.

 

[redline4]

I cleaned up the go button parts



And opened up the muffler outlet to the back of the deflector, keeping the front still under it.

 

[redline4]

I took the muffler cover..


Ground it to the back of the deflector


Put some heat to it..


And bent the deflector open.
That way, I can always close it back off if some reason necessitated.

 

[markds2]

Great thread, Ed, and my favourite series of saws. Finished this one earlier this year, original very low hour saw:

 

[redline4]

Great thread, Ed, and my favourite series of saws. Finished this one earlier this year, original very low hour saw:
View attachment 398891View attachment 398890View attachment 398889

Yours could fall off that post and spontaneously combust and still look better than mine.

 

[redline4]

The o ring under the tensioner gear isn't an absolute requirement and I think is really only there to give the gear a bit of resistance to turning.


I dug around in the pit of forgotten O-rings we have at work..


Closest I could come up with was this..


It is a bit snug and required some extra effort to turn the gear once tightened, so I'm thinking something around .050" thickness would be about right.
I think I'll run with this one until it either wears in or pisses me off and I just throw it in the trash.

 

[redline4]

I think this finishes off all the grungy stuff other than the coil.

 

[hacskaroly]

The o ring under the tensioner gear isn't an absolute requirement and I think is really only there to give the gear a bit of resistance to turning.

The o-ring on my 066 broke, I bought three replacements so I could have some for the future, just in case. I think it also helps keep dirt and crud from getting impacted underneath too.

 

[redline4]

The o-ring on my 066 broke, I bought three replacements so I could have some for the future, just in case. I think it also helps keep dirt and crud from getting impacted underneath too.

Hard to say.
This thing didn't have an one, my MS460 had 2 under the gear and my 044 had 1 and all seemed to have the same amount of funk built up inside.

 

[legdelimber]

Is the O-ring behind the adjuster possibly an anti-rattle, wear prevention thing?
Maybe helps the gear "favor" or stay biased to one side to make things stay meshed better when tensioning?

 

[drf256]

Coil wire enroute. Ed, you gotta pull that baffle out of the muffler. Air chisel the top two pieces down, then you can usually rock the whole thing back and forth to break the spot welds on the back of the can.

 

[Stump Shot]

@redline4
Go ahead and pull the remaining part of the baffle to satisfy the Internet and I'll replace it when it hits my bench to fix it faster.

 

[drf256]

@redline4
Go ahead and pull the remaining part of the baffle to satisfy the Internet and I'll replace it when it hits my bench to fix it faster.

Really Steve? Its best left in the muffler can?

On 460’s, I mod and leave in. Do you find that leaving in adds torque?

 

[Stump Shot]

Really Steve? Its best left in the muffler can?

On 460’s, I mod and leave in. Do you find that leaving in adds torque?

Really Doc,
Modified in such a manner, it increases the velocity of the port. Which enhances the draw through the motor, allowing it to run more efficiently.
I didn't spend the money for a plasma cutter to go slower.
Saw runs better, job goes smoother, where am I going wrong here?

 

[hacskaroly]

Modified in such a manner, it increases the velocity of the port. Which enhances the draw through the motor, allowing it to run more efficiently.

Saw runs better, job goes smoother

I am still learning about effectively modifying mufflers, not just randomly drilling holes and JB welding pipes on. Unfortunately, I do not have access to a plasma torch or a grinder (just a drill and channel locks at this point), would it be worth it for me to take the front of the baffle off like @redline4 or just leave it until I can get proper tools to take out the baffle (or just buy an aftermarket one without the baffle)?

 

[Stump Shot]

I am still learning about effectively modifying mufflers, not just randomly drilling holes and JB welding pipes on. Unfortunately, I do not have access to a plasma torch or a grinder (just a drill and channel locks at this point), would it be worth it for me to take the front of the baffle off like @redline4 or just leave it until I can get proper tools to take out the baffle (or just buy an aftermarket one without the baffle)?

Either is better than doing nothing.

 

[hacskaroly]

Either is better than doing nothing.

Well, now I know what I am doing tomorrow after work, will put the drill battery on the charger!

 

[jacob j.]

Really Doc,
Modified in such a manner, it increases the velocity of the port. Which enhances the draw through the motor, allowing it to run more efficiently.
I didn't spend the money for a plasma cutter to go slower.
Saw runs better, job goes smoother, where am I going wrong here?

I've always left the cages in to maintain rigidity. I've seen too many mufflers rattle apart in the woods and then make a guy packout to the truck.

 

[hacskaroly]

I've always left the cages in to maintain rigidity. I've seen too many mufflers rattle apart in the woods and then make a guy packout to the truck.

I have learned so far to take two to three saws with me, usually a main use and backup with another to test after repairing. Having back-up chains is a good idea too. Makes sense leaving the cage in for some stability.

 

[Stump Shot]

I've always left the cages in to maintain rigidity. I've seen too many mufflers rattle apart in the woods and then make a guy packout to the truck.

No pain no gain, everything is at some kind of risk.