Tree Felling Technique Thread

[beaglebriar]

@beaglebriar we kind of suspected the same thing with the oak wilt.
There are only a handful of oaks left. All the regen came back as maple.
30 years ago, it was mostly oak. I think there are maybe 5 or 6 smaller than the pictured one that still appear to be alive. And the 5 or 6 similar to this one that are no longer. Nothing of timber value. Just firewood at this point.

That's really too bad. At this point you might as well knock em all down.

 

[Czed]

@beaglebriar we kind of suspected the same thing with the oak wilt.
There are only a handful of oaks left. All the regen came back as maple.
30 years ago, it was mostly oak. I think there are maybe 5 or 6 smaller than the pictured one that still appear to be alive. And the 5 or 6 similar to this one that are no longer. Nothing of timber value. Just firewood at this point.

If you lived closer i could make you a real mess
To Clean up.don't climb that tree
It's not worth it
3"x4ft dead limb hobbled a friend of mine.

 

[hseII]

I believe he clarified it was leaning that way anyway.


*Edit..Even the first branch should be above the bulk if the weight?

Falling with the lean? Why we still talking cable?

Hard to say from the picture: maybe.

I want to say the 2/3rds rule of thumb was from Douglas Dent or Jepson literature, which is basically what you said as well: more wood on below the line that top, but not so high as to pull the top out.


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[hseII]

If you lived closer i could make you a real mess
To Clean up.View attachment 174958don't climb that tree
It's not worth it
3"x4ft dead limb hobbled a friend of mine.

1st Part-

Yes, leaking oil from a Hooskie does present messy a work area.

2nd Part-

Absolutely- don’t Climber that nasty thing.


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[mdavlee]

I’d face it 1/3 humboldt and start the back cut. set a wedge or two into the back cut as soon as possible if you’re pushing it against the lean. If it’s hollow then wedging may be out of the question and falling with the lean is the best idea. I wouldn’t put much pressure on the top pulling it.

 

[Czed]

1st Part-

Yes, leaking oil from a Hooskie does present messy a work area.

2nd Part-

Absolutely- don’t Climber that nasty thing.


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That's not oil
I made it myself.

 

[hseII]

That's not oil
I made it myself.

[emoji1787]


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[mdavlee]

Oh yeah. Wear a hard hat and look up especially when wedging one or two hits and step back and look.

 

[redline4]

Maybe this will help.
Or, confuse the chit out of everyone.


The largest limb is 90 degrees to the slight lean.
There is also a funky curve that kicks out under said limb.
Thats what has me wondering.

My Dad had said he wanted to drop it 5 years or so ago, but he wasnt sure what that would do.

I'm old enough now not to just fly blind into crap. Most of the time anyway.

The general consensus seems to be just fall towards lean.
Or would split the difference between the lean and the kick out be better? Would that mitigate the chance of it rolling on the stump? If memory serves that should allow the top to pass between 2 other bigger trees.

 

[mdavlee]

Maybe this will help.
Or, confuse the chit out of everyone.
View attachment 174968

The largest limb is 90 degrees to the slight lean.
There is also a funky curve that kicks out under said limb.
Thats what has me wondering.

My Dad had said he wanted to drop it 5 years or so ago, but he wasnt sure what that would do.

I'm old enough now not to just fly blind into crap. Most of the time anyway.

The general consensus seems to be just fall towards lean.
Or would split the difference between the lean and the kick out be better? Would that mitigate the chance of it rolling on the stump? If memory serves that should allow the top to pass between 2 other bigger trees.

I don’t see why it would twist or roll on the stump unless you cut all the hinge wood on one side to pull it. Myself I’d wedge it where I wanted it from the pictures and drawings. The limb doesn’t look big enough to really cause it to sit down that direction. I’ve cut a few fence row oaks the past few years and just the outer layer is real dead. The centers were good and you could wedge them

 

[redline4]

I don’t see why it would twist or roll on the stump unless you cut all the hinge wood on one side to pull it. Myself I’d wedge it where I wanted it from the pictures and drawings. The limb doesn’t look big enough to really cause it to sit down that direction. I’ve cut a few fence row oaks the past few years and just the outer layer is real dead. The centers were good and you could wedge them

Gotcha.

 

[~WBF]

Falling with the lean? Why we still talking cable?

Hard to say from the picture: maybe.

I want to say the 2/3rds rule of thumb was from Douglas Dent or Jepson literature, which is basically what you said as well: more wood on below the line that top, but not so high as to pull the top out.


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I don't know? I just give info until they are ready to puke and see if they flush out or follow up. lol. He didn't seem as enthusiastic as I was and found a different plan. Now I am just a 'yes man'. haha
Picture does nothing .
It's all about assessments. If someone doesn't want to do a full assessment then so be it. That's all I have as I don't know that wood. So I guess I support him making a hole with the lean then or Mike or others better suited guiding him. It not in my wheelhouse. Still should make proper assessments regardless.

Yes I am not sure where it was said. Personally I don't recall hearing that before. I just said the weight has to be greater below the tie as a rule of thumb in which I was taught by a dam good coast Certified Utility Arborist (CUA)
It's a picture but we are both looking at the same pictures. Go between the third and fourth pics. after the lowest big branch the tree dia gets way smaller right where it forks off. That is typical with some trees. I say that there is 80℅ weight below. Trees defoliate and decompose as well dry out from the top down also. I hear an Oak can take 5 yrs for standing dry? My friend Ken the CUA would go 30' on 90ft pine. I'll completely break that down for you next. as I know 16" was just under max pay load. Max being 2,000 lb for an A-star helicopter. I will come back with the weight at 30 ft in a minute. Lodgepole pine (mountain pine) 32lb cu ft green.

 

[Deets066]

I don't know? I just give info until they are ready to puke and see if they flush out or follow up. lol. He didn't seem as enthusiastic as I was and found a different plan. Now I am just a 'yes man'. haha
Picture does nothing .
It's all about assessments. If someone doesn't want to do a full assessment then so be it. That's all I have as I don't know that wood. So I guess I support him making a hole with the lean then or Mike or others better suited guiding him. It not in my wheelhouse. Still should make proper assessments regardless.

Yes I am not sure where it was said. Personally I don't recall hearing that before. I just said the weight has to be greater below the tie as a rule of thumb in which I was taught by a dam good coast Certified Utility Arborist (CUA)
It's a picture but we are both looking at the same pictures. Go between the third and fourth pics. after the lowest big branch the tree dia gets way smaller right where it forks off. That is typical with some trees. I say that there is 80℅ weight below. Trees defoliate and decompose as well dry out from the top down also. I hear an Oak can take 5 yrs for standing dry? My friend Ken the CUA would go 30' on 90ft pine. I'll completely break that down for you next. as I know 16" was just under max pay load. Max being 2,000 lb for an A-star helicopter. I will come back with the weight at 30 ft in a minute. Lodgepole pine (mountain pine) 32lb cu ft green.

I doubt oak will ever dry if standing or down, not till it’s cut and split.
Cut and split from green is minimum of a year and 2 is better.

 

[longleaf]

I doubt oak will ever dry if standing or down, not till it’s cut and split.
Cut and split from green is minimum of a year and 2 is better.

Red oak won’t for sure. Post oak dries ok standing but not as good as split. Most in the white oak family rot at the ground first.

 

[~WBF]

I doubt oak will ever dry if standing or down, not till it’s cut and split.
Cut and split from green is minimum of a year and 2 is better.

Forever is a long time my friend.
I believe he said a a few years as well for dry split.
If if was in a Drought and was stressed or sick and got attacked by beetles or caught oak wilt at that time then it may dry much faster I would think?

 

[Deets066]

Forever is a long time my friend.
I believe he said a a few years as well for dry split.
If if was in a Drought and was stressed or sick and got attacked by beetles or caught oak wilt at that time then it may dry much faster I would think?

Forever is a long time, it rots from the inside out before it dries usually.

 

[Deets066]

I’ve got some 3’ rounds of burr oak sitting out back. Been cut for about 6-8 years now. I’ll check em tomorrow if I think of it

 

[Skeans1]

Forever is a long time my friend.
I believe he said a a few years as well for dry split.
If if was in a Drought and was stressed or sick and got attacked by beetles or caught oak wilt at that time then it may dry much faster I would think?

Forever is a long time, it rots from the inside out before it dries usually.

Almost sounds like our red cedar nice and wet with a rotten core.


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[Deets066]

Almost sounds like our red cedar nice and wet with a rotten core.


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Sounds like a girl I used to know....

 

[Skeans1]

Sounds like a girl I used to know....

Many moons and beers ago


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