Tree Felling Technique Thread

[Skeans1]

That's cheatin!
@Coltont

Cheatin’? Just a better Swiss Army knife.


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[Coltont]

Trimming and more trimming

 

[Deets066]

Trimming and more trimming

Still pretty muddy there?

 

[Coltont]

Still pretty muddy there?

Its really starting to dry out. This is odd ground were on, its about 5 inches of topsoil and then sand for as far as you can dig with an excavator. Saturates fast but dries fast aswell .

 

[longleaf]

I had a leaner question. I ussually do a plunge cut with a trigger on leaners. They come down really fast. No time to get out. Should i leave more hinge? I don’t want to leave to much and it still split is there a good way to tell how much hinge to leave or does it just take experience?

 

[Coltont]

Still pretty muddy there?

Real time photo rite now. You can see it's pretty dry.

 

[beaglebriar]

Its really starting to dry out. This is odd ground were on, its about 5 inches of topsoil and then sand for as far as you can dig with an excavator. Saturates fast but dries fast aswell .

The clay ground up here is still wet as hell. More rain coming tomorrow, so that's great.

 

[Skeans1]

I had a leaner question. I ussually do a plunge cut with a trigger on leaners. They come down really fast. No time to get out. Should i leave more hinge? I don’t want to leave to much and it still split is there a good way to tell how much hinge to leave or does it just take experience?

Experience or a different style of cut, how deep are your faces? What style of face? Any step on the back cut?


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[Ryan Browne]

I had a leaner question. I ussually do a plunge cut with a trigger on leaners. They come down really fast. No time to get out. Should i leave more hinge? I don’t want to leave to much and it still split is there a good way to tell how much hinge to leave or does it just take experience?

One thing to try is releasing your trigger from several inches below your back cut. The fibers will have to slide past each other and act as brakes during the first part of the fall.

 

[~WBF]

I had a leaner question. I ussually do a plunge cut with a trigger on leaners. They come down really fast. No time to get out. Should i leave more hinge? I don’t want to leave to much and it still split is there a good way to tell how much hinge to leave or does it just take experience?

Good question.
No you are defeating the purpose with no gain. I never cut that wood but the principals are almost always the same. If you left that much holding wood to slow down a tree that would drop like a rock otherwise then it will barber chair for sure It would take a lot of wood as there is no support there. If you added a little more it won't do anything and when you get to the point that it will slow it down then that's what causes barber chairs.
So don't ever play with that. Experience takes you other places. Experience in wood you cut prepares you for what tree and situations you have to look for but experience has got nothing on what your talking about other than I have enough experience to no not to ever go there.

1) take the tree off the lean when ever posable, 45 -60° range. Now you mitigated the b- chair potential. Now what is the back of tree when you fall with the lean is now becoming closer to the side now or top side of you hinge. It's not going to split with the hinge in tact.

If the situation doesn't allow for that then?
What makes a big difference on a big tree is a shallow undercut. Once you start taking too much base out then you add a lot of pressure to the backstrap area. That's also textbook as well as off the lean. Mind you I talked to a hard wood faller not to long ago and said without a deep undercut he said he had a hard time getting the wood cut behind the hinge. He said that's what works in his wood the best.

Longer bar.
Release the tree from the outside in and not the inside out. What ryan is saying.
Below a ways. now you are further away.
Don't stand behind an unstable tree.

That's all I think I can help you with.
as the uncertified tricks are classified tripleXXX

*Your hinge wood is your holding wood formed between the front and middle of the compression wood zone now what supports the tree is you tension wood nearing the back or the tree. Where your strap is right.

 

[~WBF]

You could try a strip strap or a T-cut.
Looks like the letter T .
I don't know have wide you can go with the strip. A 2"strip will do nothing. Once the top tears then it will tear off like a bandaid.

 

[Cjone]

I had a leaner question. I ussually do a plunge cut with a trigger on leaners. They come down really fast. No time to get out. Should i leave more hinge? I don’t want to leave to much and it still split is there a good way to tell how much hinge to leave or does it just take experience?

A Coos Bay cut is hard to mess up and it holds a long time with the back cut. CJ

 

[longleaf]

Experience or a different style of cut, how deep are your faces? What style of face? Any step on the back cut?


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Shallow face cut. Used a standard face cut. I will try the lower trigger like @Ryan Browne said. I could see that slowing it down as I just cut straight through the trigger in to the plunge. I will have to look into the coos bay. I’m not familiar with that. I’m definitely no pro but want to do it right as possible.

 

[longleaf]

You could try a strip strap or a T-cut.
Looks like the letter T .
I don't know have wide you can go with the strip. A 2"strip will do nothing. Once the top tears then it will tear off like a bandaid.

So the hinge would be the top of the t?

 

[~WBF]

So the hinge would be the top of the t?

why are you falling them with the lean? May have pictures on this thread of the triangle cut ("Coos bay")
Its a V triangle and the under cut being the wide part. So it cuts all the sapwood which is the strongest wood. heart wood is generally the hardest wood as its older and more brittle.

P. 23 Junkman has some pics and a diagram. its a good cut to use.
Then it hits it's breaking point, It will not be slowing down it will just pop.

 

[longleaf]

why are you falling them with the lean? May have pictures on this thread of the triangle cut ("Coos bay")
Its a V triangle and the under cut being the wide part. So it cuts all the sapwood which is the strongest wood. heart wood is generally the hardest wood as its older and more brittle.

P. 23 Junkman has some pics and a diagram. its a good cut to use.
Then it hits it's breaking point, It will not be slowing down it will just pop.

I found a pic of the triangle cut. Makes sense. Most of the trees on the farm lean towards the field any other direction they would hang up. Figured it’s open and easy to get too.

 

[Cat 525]

Leave a little on the face when you bore in. Bore towards the back but get out before the pinch comes. Then bore right back in. Once the tree has set it can't go any further. Slash down on the front just a bit the continue the cut to back side. No splintering anywhere on grade or veneer trees!

 

[Semotony]

My mechanic saved some money because these milling subjects were left. He was sure this cheap tree guy was good enough. left hand stick caused the cutter to go expletive! when it started down. Headed toward the deck around the above ground pool. Closer with this mismatch of cuts the only thing that saved the deck was the stick falling measured 11' rather than 12 1/2 feet in length. It trimmed back to 9'10" which has me strapping a ladder to the roof for the guide

 

[Coltont]

Tree cutting fuel. Keeps me going all day

 

[RI Chevy]

Thats a big jar of honey!