Thoughts on a Holzfforma G366

[ayoungtexan]

I’m seeing these Stihl 361 clones for dirt cheap, and I’m curious about how they would hold up to long-term cutting. They seem like great saws for the price, and I would greatly appreciate any input on them.

Cheers, Brett.

 

[Deets066]

Junk

 

[dall]

junk
save your money and buy a real one

 

[full chizel]

╭∩╮China

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I guess you need to looky around, the rice burner sub forum will give you an idea, although these saws are prebuilt so you never know..@MustangMike runs some 660 clones, and with & without problems.

They are like playing the lottery, so for a hobby saw and to learn on I guess not to bad. But for a work saw not to good.
Some say you'd be better off buying a oem second hand saw and fixing it up.

I just do the s/h and fix up with some bits here and there..and learnt a lot from the rice burners

 

[Czed]

The stihl clones seem to be more problematic
For some reason
From what I've read on the forum's
And farmertec FB page.
The husky 365/372 clones have held up for three year's so far for me and my friends.
I cut a lot with them.
Out of 7 I bought the fuel/pulse line's were junk and some had very weak chainbrake
Springs that would trip at idle.
One coil and a stop switch went bad were the only problems.
To each his own
Mine have paid for themselves with all the wood I've cut.

 

[MustangMike]

Each kit is different, and they have made some improvements, but they never detail when, etc.

Most of the saws that did not hold up either had grit in the bearings that was not flushed out (always flush all bearings), or were run on marginal oil.

Even ported OEM saws will implode if you don't run them on good oil.

I personally run Saber at 40:1 and have not had any problems (except for a 660 piston pin bearing, which for $10 I always replace with OEM).

Two of the 440 BBs I built imploded, being run on Stihl Oil. I replaced the saw with instructions to run on Saber at 40:1 and it has been used a lot w/o any issues.

Fit and finish is not as good as OEM, but if you are willing to tinker, they are not bad deals.

 

[RedGas]

Most of the saws that did not hold up either had grit in the bearings that was not flushed out (always flush all bearings)

Mike,

I just bought a Holzfforma G366PRO (361 clone) saw as a backup for my OEM MS361 which is getting long in the tooth. For $230 delivered, I couldn't pass it up and it seems strong.

I would like to "flush out the bearings" as you advise above, but I'm not exactly sure how to do this. Should I just pour a bunch of 2Mix (I use non-ethanol 90 octane with Mobil1 Racing 2T or Motul800 oil) down into the throat to get it into the crankcase, then pour it all back out, kind of the way you would clear out a really bad flooding situation?

Or is there something more involved that I should do? I'm definitely not on the level of you saw builders, but I do have tools and am not a total idiot...

Thanks for any advice.

 

[MustangMike]

I always flushed them with the kits before they were assembled. If your saw came assembled, and you have already run it, I would not worry about it.

I've noticed the assembled saws (they all used to be kits) seem to have less problems than the kits did. Quality control must have improved.

Good luck with your saw, sounds like you got a good deal and a good runner.

Now you can take the OEM one down, rebuild it and make improvements to it!

I don't have one, but 361s always had a VG reputation. I do have a Doc Al ported MS360 that I love. Very strong saw.

 

[MustangMike]

I see my post above is from 5 years ago. The guy recently sent me a video of the 440 BB and it is still running well on Saber at 40:1.

He heats by wood, and that is his primary saw.

 

[RedGas]

Thank you for your replies and advice, MustangMike. I appreciate your help.

Yeah, I really like my OG 361. Probably my favorite saw I've ever had. Reliable, strong and good AV. (But throttle response is snappier on this clone ... she spins up fast and wants to eat!)