The Small Dolmar/Makita Thread..Max 50cc class

[Wilhelm]

Pictures are not showing for me.
An IP thing again?

 

[Wilhelm]

This is how I see Your post.

 

[wrooster]

This is how I see Your post.
...

please try again; this problem is on me, not you.

 

[Wilhelm]

please try again; this problem is on me, not you.

Works now, thank You.

Aren't You asking a little too much from that saw.
I know she can handle a 20" B&C , but that is about the limit for a 5105 IMHO.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I have an 18" Tsumura 3/8 pitch on mine. It pulls chisel chain quite well, just got a loop of Oregon DPX for it to try.

 

[wrooster]

Works now, thank You.
Aren't You asking a little too much from that saw.
I know she can handle a 20" B&C , but that is about the limit for a 5105 IMHO.

The "big stuff" in my pics were dropped by a commercial tree cutter team, with their big saws.
I told them to leave the bulk of the wood for me to use as firewood; but the result of that was a couple of pieces way too large for me to move with the tractor.
So I am having to piece them up a bit using the "little" 5105.
Not ideal, but not bad either.

 

[wrooster]

True 20" 72DL, full chisel, full complement, 3/8" .050" Oregon LGX at about half life, round filed with an Archer FastFiler jig, rakers set by "feel" of the cut which is a little more conservative than where the FastFiler would set them, 7 tooth drive sprocket.

Aside: do you recommend the FastFiler jig?
I've been reading a few threads(*) and it seems like it would be useful for my (occasional) use.
I have three LGX loops for my 5105 to keep sharp.
I just can't figure out why Archer didn't use an angle aligned with their own chains, nor the popular Oregon/Stihl chains.

My question really boils down to this: for general purpose use, what's a better match with the LGX:
1) Pferd/Stihl 2-in-1, with it's 13/64 file, versus the 7/32 spec'd by Oregon (**)
OR
2) FastFiler jig, which requires initial reshaping of the angle

(*)
https://opeforum.com/threads/fast-filer-chain-filing-guide.3192/
https://opeforum.com/threads/roller-sharpener.19761/

(**)
https://opeforum.com/threads/pferd-2-in-1-file-system.4949/page-3#post-1067856

 

[Wilhelm]

The "big stuff" in my pics were dropped by a commercial tree cutter team, with their big saws.
I told them to leave the bulk of the wood for me to use as firewood; but the result of that was a couple of pieces way too large for me to move with the tractor.
So I am having to piece them up a bit using the "little" 5105.
Not ideal, but not bad either.

Nice firewood score!
Buck the larger rounds from both sides and the "little one" will take care of it.
Or invite someone with a larger saw/B&C over for a drink, hint don't get the drinks out before the job is done.

Aside: do you recommend the FastFiler jig?
I've been reading a few threads(*) and it seems like it would be useful for my (occasional) use.
I have three LGX loops for my 5105 to keep sharp.
I just can't figure out why Archer didn't use an angle aligned with their own chains, nor the popular Oregon/Stihl chains.

My question really boils down to this: for general purpose use, what's a better match with the LGX:
1) Pferd/Stihl 2-in-1 with it's 13/64 file, versus the 7/32 spec'd by Oregon (**)
OR
2) FastFiler jig which requires initial reshaping of the angle

(*)
https://opeforum.com/threads/fast-filer-chain-filing-guide.3192/
https://opeforum.com/threads/roller-sharpener.19761/

(**)
https://opeforum.com/threads/pferd-2-in-1-file-system.4949/page-3#post-1067856

You will have to find out on Your own what floats Your boat the best.
If You read through those threads You may have noticed that I love the FastFiler roller guides, I have spares and spares for my spares in all available pitches.
I am making my own rollers and by doing so I can flatten the file angle enough so it matches most factory stock chain cutters.
I tried many file guides and sharpening methods, free hand, bar mounted, file mounted, dremel type, grinder, roller types - the FastFiler is what I was looking for.

I never tried the Pferd 2in1, but I tried file mounted guides - they don't do it for me.

 

[Johnmn]

Local ish dolmar dealer had one left, I couldn't leave it there. Man I have a problem!

 

[Wood Doctor]

Fabulous, Wooster! I have tried to get more tree removal companies to do exactly that. Instead they cut the big tree trunk into chariot wheel lengths, most less than 8" long and sometimes 32" in diameter. They look like slices of bread. Converting that to firewood is almost a worthless exercise. Nobody wants to pay for little chunks that cannot be stacked.

One day I asked the owner, "Why do you guys cut the rounds so thin, like cookies?" He said, "The thinner they are, the lighter they are and the easier it is for us to load them onto the truck for the recycling center to grind up."

I said, "But nobody wants that short stuff for firewood. They want 16" to 18" splits. If I ever try to deliver them, some have actually thrown those short chunks back onto my truck."

He said, "That's your problem, not mine."

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

Local ish dolmar dealer had one left, I couldn't leave it there. Man I have a problem! View attachment 331961View attachment 331963

Last spring my MIL wanted a chainsaw for yard cleanup, and she wanted a good one. The local dealer had a rebuilt 510 advertised for like $250, so I sent the ad to her, and said to go talk to Bernie and get that saw if he says it's good. She came home with a brand new 5105. I'm not complaining, since I'm usually the one who runs the saw whenever we come around...

 

[Johnmn]

Last spring my MIL wanted a chainsaw for yard cleanup, and she wanted a good one. The local dealer had a rebuilt 510 advertised for like $250, so I sent the ad to her, and said to go talk to Bernie and get that saw if he says it's good. She came home with a brand new 5105. I'm not complaining, since I'm usually the one who runs the saw whenever we come around...

Well I paid more than $250 but I'm still happy. They are a nice saw, underated, overshadowed by the 346 but everyone I have had has had more grunt than a 346. Not as light or nimble but smoother and more grunt, great for bucking firewood.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

Well I paid more than $250 but I'm still happy. They are a nice saw, underated, overshadowed by the 346 but everyone I have had has had more grunt than a 346. Not as light or nimble but smoother and more grunt, great for bucking firewood.

Oh, she paid more than $250 for the NIB 5105 as well, but I totally agree, I love my 5100s.

 

[dahmer]

Just got this, my only small Smurf. For $100 I couldn’t pass it up.

 

[Johnmn]

Just got this, my only small Smurf. For $100 I couldn’t pass it up.
View attachment 332250

$100 I buy it all day long! Very nice little saws

 

[Colonel 428]

I've got one of those blue smurf 4300's. Sure, it takes longer to cut but I've used it to buck 30" red oak logs after I flooded my 7900 and couldn't get it to restart hot. And it starts every...single...time.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[dahmer]

I already converted it to a rim drive so I don’t have that nasty spur drive.

 

[Colonel 428]

Fabulous, Wooster! I have tried to get more tree removal companies to do exactly that. Instead they cut the big tree trunk into chariot wheel lengths, most less than 8" long and sometimes 32" in diameter. They look like slices of bread. Converting that to firewood is almost a worthless exercise. Nobody wants to pay for little chunks that cannot be stacked.

One day I asked the owner, "Why do you guys cut the rounds so thin, like cookies?" He said, "The thinner they are, the lighter they are and the easier it is for us to load them onto the truck for the recycling center to grind up."

I said, "But nobody wants that short stuff for firewood. They want 16" to 18" splits. If I ever try to deliver them, some have actually thrown those short chunks back onto my truck."

He said, "That's your problem, not mine."

I've kinda wondered why tree service guys cut thicker pieces so thin. Sucks for us firewood guys but it absolutely makes sense for them...

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Hulsty]

What parts? I'm keen to convert mine, great saw I use it quite a bit for camping/fire wood. Good size to pack into the car and goes well rather than lumbering around my 7901. I only take the 7901 when going into the high country, where the big trees fall.

 

[dahmer]

What parts? I'm keen to convert mine, great saw I use it quite a bit for camping/fire wood. Good size to pack into the car and goes well rather than lumbering around my 7901. I only take the 7901 when going into the high country, where the big trees fall.

To convert you will need a 5105 clutch drum, a Stihl picco 7 pin rim. You will need to bore the rim I.d. out to .752” then with a 1/8” carbide Dremel bit you will need to extend each rim key way until the rim fits the shaft. To be able to use the same chains you will need to shorten the tail on your bar and drill 2 new adjustment holes in the bar approximately 1” closer towards the nose. Sounds like a lot of work but it’s really not that time consuming. I mentioned using the carbide bit in the Dremel because those rims are HARD. I tried a jewelers file and took the teeth off.