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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

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I watched the stihl 07 yesterday, even though it was cheap $ 20, I did not decide to buy / it certainly had a welding starter / it looks good for 60 years
 

Woodslasher

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This may be an impossible question, but did Stihl 192T's setup with 3/8lp typically come with a 6 or 7 tooth sprocket? I borrowed a buddy's 192T and liked how it handled, and I should be picking one up for myself here soon and I'd like to know which drum it has. I doubt my buddy would understand if I asked them what tooth count their clutch drum has or else I'd just ask them, fyi.
 

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3/8 Picco - 6T is the common setup. 3/8 Picco - 7T was also introduced and is used all the way up to the 194T.
1/4 8T was also used on the 192s. All setups are spur sprockets and the oil pump worm drive needs to match the sprocket used.
 

heimannm

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Somebody dropped off a 170 that refuses to accelerate off idle. What is a good baseline setting for the "L" jet?

Mark
 

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If it has one of the fixed jet carbs, your best bet is to replace it if everything else has been covered. The typical OEM replacement these days is only around $20 at an honest Stihl dealer.

Those things scream when running correctly, so don't be surprised once (if) you're able to get it sorted out.
 

heimannm

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O.K., too many saws coming through lately...the 170 was last week and all it took was cleaning the spark arrester screen and readjusting the carburetor.

This week's challenge is an MS211c...struggles coming off idle. I have replace the fuel filter, gaskets & diaphragms in the carburetor, cleaned the carburetor (without removing any welch plugs) and reset the limiters. L is more than 2-1/2 turns open and it still struggles to come off idle. Very low hour saw and it run well once you get it past the transition from idle to full speed.

Sorry for the confusion.

Mark
 

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What's confusing is you posting here about cheap little Stihls. LOL

If you haven't already, may want to do a leak check on that carb from the fuel filter end of the fuel line. Kill two birds with one stone if you're tight there. Also may want to make sure the trigger, control lever and linkage/interlock components are interacting correctly. The throttle shaft lever and air intake lever need to engage properly and maintain a certain clearance between each other.
 

heimannm

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It seemed to me that the air intake is opening too quickly but with only a brief look I could not see how to make any adjustments. If you have any insights there I would be interested.

I am the local fixer of all things that no one else will waste their time on...just trying to be helpful. When the owner stopped by today he walked out with a rebuilt SE2114 (300 Series McCulloch) and the MS290 of his that I had ready to go.

Mark
 

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I know the feeling. I finally learned to say 'No' to working on Mini-Macs. That's generally how I've acquired the ones I have. Folks just leave em with me anyway.

This service info may or may not shed light on your issue.
 

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heimannm

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Thanks Poge - Do I understand correctly that there is some adjustment available if loosen the screw and shift the position of the air valve?

Mark
 

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I've not had the pleasure of adjusting one, but they imply there is some means for maintaining a rather vague amount of clearance between the two levers so the valve opens at the proper time. I'd be curious what, (if any) adjustment there actually is and how much resulting effect there may be. Based on your description of the symptoms, it sounds like it may be opening too early allowing more air than the low circuit can handle -- hence the 2 1/2 turns out on the low screw trying to equalize the imbalance.

I wish I could be of more help.
 

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This may not help either, but ive had some issues with one of the "other" orange saws.
Also a small displacement strato model.
The low screw was at 2 1/2 turns as well, and was having starting issues.
Cleaned and put together another used carb from a similar model.
That one had settings more like I would expect. Slightly over 1 turn on low, and just under 1 turn on high.
Havent had time to try and start it yet.
Been out of town.
 

Al Smith

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I know the feeling. I finally learned to say 'No' to working on Mini-Macs. .
------:applaudit:You have to get your mind straight before you ever delve into those things . You delve into those mini saws the first thing that comes to mind is what on earth were they thinking .
 

PogoInTheWoods

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I should have qualified that statement more clearly with..., "for customers". They're quite simple to work on and actually fun if not stored under a chicken coop for 20 years before finding their way to your bench. You just need to cover everything when you have one apart -- including the carb check valves -- unless you want to take it apart again.

They're usually just not cost prohibitive to service from a customer expectation perspective even if you can break one down in 5 minutes -- which is all it should take if you know how. An OEM fuel line kit can run 40 bucks and a carb kit without the check valve another 15. You can usually buy a runner on FB or CL for less than that.

Same for the little Stihls. You can buy another one for what a dealer would charge to fix one.
 

Al Smith

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--Most older saws are that way which is why the dealers dead piles are ripe for the picking depending on the dealer .Fact the last 200T I got cost me a whole 20 dollars .I about had to get a second mortgage .BTW it runs like a top .Broke my heart ,I had to buy a bar and chain .:zpong:
 
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