STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[Maintenance Chief]

Thanks for the great read! So the dealer got the plug out, that thing had to be over 40 ft lbs……he’s a big guy and he had to take two tries at it. I’m amazed that the threads are seemingly perfect, and tickled he snugged the plug with finesse.
I noticed this saw has had some amount of run time on it from the factory (unfortunately). Will these “bedding” streaks go away with load and time?

So I have put together a few saws with fresh top ends or bought it new and pulled the top end ,and not one of the plugs looked like that . If some one asked me to guess how much run time is on that saw it would be more than a tank which I'm pretty sure Stihl doesn't do.
I've seen some wear making like that on an Aftermarket cylinder?

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Yes sir I agree. I hate to look like a nuisance to this dealer but sometimes it’s just what it is. I’ll give them a call 1st

You spent good money on it,you should not be looked at as a nuisance by the dealer.

 

[spencerdiesel]

Thanks for the insight you all. This saw was new in box (tape and all) when I bought it. They had 2 others assembled and ready on the shelves but I wanted the NIB.
Here’s the S/N

 

[RI Chevy]

Hopefully it all works out well for you.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Here’s the S/N

Shipped from Mid-Atlantic Stihl in Hillsborough on 9/22/21 -- presumably to your dealer.

The saw has never been registered with Stihl as sold and is still unregistered. In other words, the serial number has yet to be registered in your name (or anyone's for that matter) and the saw is still sitting on a dealer shelf as far as Stihl is concerned.

You should have registration documentation with your receipt and warranty paperwork reflecting the serial number that's stamped on the saw. Read the warranty stuff very carefully before approaching your dealer about any additional concerns just so you have an adequate understanding of the terms in case you start receiving any B.S.

Lacking any of the documentation required to make a warranty claim is not an acceptable situation. Mid-Atlantic would be who initially reviews a claim in your region (after the dealer initiates one). They would also be who you would contact if things get sideways with the dealer and you feel recourse at a higher level is required. As of around 10;45 this morning, the saw is technically not registered to a customer or under customer warranty in the Mid-Atlantic database. Registration generally occurs at the time of sale.

If it were me, I'd keep the tanks dry and proceed patiently until you are satisfied with the transaction one way or another -- including a possible refund if further investigation reveals additional issues with the cylinder (or anything else). That's the dealer's responsibility to sort out. Oddly, it may be to your advantage that the saw hasn't been registered yet. Easier for the dealer to modify the transaction or provide a different unit to favorably satisfy any issues you still may have with the current saw.

I personally believe you have provided enough evidence for legitimate concerns. A responsible dealer should willingly address them.

 

[spencerdiesel]

Thanks for digging all of that info Pogo! I made another visit to the dealer and showed him the photos of the cylinder. He says that’s typical of what is seen as long as the lines are “ghosted”, and have no texture/ can’t feel anything.
I asked Randy what his thoughts were of the lines. He says he sees that in some of the brand new saws he receives, and as long as the piston shows no markings it is common and harmless. Based on the pictures it was also the rigs wearing into the crosshatch. I believe (If I remember right) he also said that observing the plating with a light from the ports can alter the “severity” of how the streaking appears. Randy if I got any of that out of line please correct me!

 

[spencerdiesel]

Ill be keeping the tanks dry for a bit, that works out well because this saw will ultimately go to my little man when he is safe and practiced enough.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You can always pull the muffler for a much better view of both the cylinder wall and the piston. Could do it on the other two the dealer still has on display for comparison if he's cooperative enough -- and if you still have concerns enough to do so after receiving additional opinions.

If you're gonna keep it as is, I hope you bought the 6 pack of HP-Ultra to extend the warranty to two years -- and have the paperwork registering the saw and establishing the warranty.

If all the above is covered, hell..., gas it up and go run the snot out of it for that big ol' new saw smile!

Good luck with it. They're a great saw.

 

[Mastermind]

Thanks for digging all of that info Pogo! I made another visit to the dealer and showed him the photos of the cylinder. He says that’s typical of what is seen as long as the lines are “ghosted”, and have no texture/ can’t feel anything.
I asked Randy what his thoughts were of the lines. He says he sees that in some of the brand new saws he receives, and as long as the piston shows no markings it is common and harmless. Based on the pictures it was also the rigs wearing into the crosshatch. I believe (If I remember right) he also said that observing the plating with a light from the ports can alter the “severity” of how the streaking appears. Randy if I got any of that out of line please correct me!

Run it.

 

[spencerdiesel]

It’s getting run then! Thanks for the reminder on the ultra/ warranty, my 12 valve will love it! A couple of those pics are looking through the exh port after pulling the muff. Said muff will possibly receive a DP front before the 1st tank. Pun intended

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

A couple of those pics are looking through the exh port after pulling the muff.

That's right. Duh. It'll be interesting to see how it looks after a tank or three. I hope it cleans up to reveal a nice pretty cross-hatch!

 

[spencerdiesel]

That’s what I’m curious of, the only downside is that as seldom as I “get” to cut wood it will take a while to go through 3 tanks:/

 

[Woodslasher]

Ladies and gents, I now present an 056 Magnum, NOT Mag II! And a link to the Craigslist post I stole the pic from: https://klamath.craigslist.org/tls/d/klamath-falls-chainsaw-powered-post/7441824412.html

 

[Michpatriot]

Bet those guys who race ice drills would like this with a pipe on it!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Ladies and gents, I now present an 056 Magnum, NOT Mag II!

Don't get me started...LOL

 

[spencerdiesel]

I got to put a tank through the 461 today. Stoked about that because my typical saw work is…….we won’t talk about it.
Bucked some locust 16-20” and some oak 20”-25”. Saw did great, mainly because I stole and installed my DP muffler off my 046 onto it
It went exactly 30 mins on a tank of fuel, stopping the time whenever the saw idled (I’m one of those nuts). Broke it in on 2R at 32:1 with the bar buried. Well, as broken in as I can get after ?/$&! Stihl idles it at the factory for 15 mins

 

[Gary Courtney]

I believe this is a 10mm? Any advice or correction appreciated.

 

[Gary Courtney]

Also what year is this?

 

[Gary Courtney]

would this use the 9640 003 1320 seal or the 9640 003 1972

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

would this use the 9640 003 1320 seal or the 9640 003 1972

1320 is the flywheel side and 003-1972 is the clutch side. There's also 9640-951-1972 used for the clutch side on saws with cat mufflers for whatever reason -- likely heat related. Probably doesn't apply in your case. Both seals are the same size.

And it's a 10mm saw by all indicators, though I believe there are aftermarket 12mm slant fin top ends floating around out there these days, too. The serial number says it should be a 10mm small end rod and wrist pin saw. Can't help with the date, but guessing somewhere between 1988 and 1992.