MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[the 28inch mac man]

Hello, may I ask how I would go about pressure testing. Do I seal at manifold in air box and exhaust. If this holds then check off and if not do I remove tank and repeat with bare intake . Next if fails I remove clutch and flywheel ( soap and water).
I will also get a supply of seats as Mark stated the swelling makes the Flat back unpredictable from day to day.
I do want to run with the flat back but am hedging my options, picked up two tillotson’s. The 63F is in great shape and the 87DT is rough but will get cleaned up. Also aware that a 090 carb can be used as well.
The sdc seems to be a little out of reach.

I've been thinking about that 797. Is this the same carb you ran saw with when you had the tank off? If it is it should be pulling gas. I there any chance the impulse hole between the tank and reed plate is blocked?

 

[Sloa]

I've been thinking about that 797. Is this the same carb you ran saw with when you had the tank off? If it is it should be pulling gas. I there any chance the impulse hole between the tank and reed plate is blocked?

Yes same carb, before snow fall ( three days) attempted to pull over . There is a disclaimer/disclosers to be said. Tank is new old stock which I believe is a 440 maybe?. No decompression machining Or enforcement in a few key placement for it to have factory decompression. Also intake manifold must have been for a d-port. My 797 tank is in relatively good shape but I did not want to seal with red kote . So looking off old tank to knew, filled in intake with jb weld and have a working decompression lever, carb kit from cinic( old diaphragms in working condition but rather pregnant)Runs on prime so I know the reeds open/ close. Filled tank with gas (does not leak) five days total with no sign. Gas poured from line so no obstruction from filter. Put red plastic zip tie down pulse hole and made sure I didn’t seal up. I am thinking the carb to manifold gasket I was using was not thick enough as well the impulse hole I will make a little larger. Check valves and make sure all clear. Spare needle o-ring seats if they swell from day to day as Mark has observed.

 

[Sloa]

So if I take back down to block and pressure test then build back up and do a test once again no more guess work. But hope a carb problem as have a replacement and will be comparing idol and response. Liked the response from flat back, rough at first but it was like the machine had a memory. Had to hook my finger forward and pull back trigger, half way threw break in it had full response with it finding idol quickly after acceleration with no assistance.
We have almost two feet of snow with another foot in the next couple days coming. Take the work saws outside when time to tinker with gas but not wanting to loose pieces. Also will change old fuel line to tygon. I have a super 6-10 and really enjoyed using it up until bar tensioner buckeled up on me. It has a small carburetor and running .354. So large carb new sprocket and wrap handle from Mark if he still has and a 20” 3/8 bar chain.
Happy thought, spring means time for the McCulloch’s so want to be ready. Last summer went south and picked up the 6-10. Hopefully do the same this year. There is a pm 700 , only 600 km away and only local pickup.

 

[heimannm]

Woodslasher sent me this 640 some while back, a project he had started and evidently lost interest in completing. I decided it was time to make it whole again.



There was some damage in shipping but I was able to find a replacement starter cover and Mike Glock 57 gave it the same powder coat as the rest of the saw. There was a lot of assembly/disassembly/reassembly and searching for parts but I think we were able to come up with everything that will be needed.

While messing with the clutch and starter I managed to break one of the starter pawls (on the clutch for this RH start gear drive saw) so it was necessary to disassemble the clutch and install the new pawl and pin.



The powder coat is thick enough that snapping the sawdust guard in place required two grown men with their fat fingers working hard. If you've never been into one of these top tank saws, getting the rear handle and controls all back together can be a real challenge.



Mike did an excellent job on the starter cover.



Getting the ignition to work also required some effort, removed the points twice for cleaning and tweaking of the spring to achieve proper closing. It would throw a spark better than 1/2" after that. I did put a little squirt of fuel in the intake and it immediately fired up with a pull on the rope.

Wait until you see the bar and chain that came with the saw...

Mark

 

[hacskaroly]

If you've never been into one of these top tank saws, getting the rear handle and controls all back together can be a real challenge.

That is a really good looking powder coat on that saw - bravo to Mike!! I have been working on my D44 and decided to reassemble it before I lost any parts...and yeah, those handles and their connectors are quite a pain. I finally got mine all back together and reconnected and realized that the other end of the oil rod was not in its slot....so it all came apart again to get the rod in. I have an extra fuel tank and handle set up for my D44 to get some pieces I needed so I have had double opportunity to take it apart and put it back together. I am working on stripping the paint and filling in the low spots on my extra handle and will get it prepared to paint. I don't have a powder coat setup yet, so probably will give it a shot with rattle cans. Been watching videos on people getting some nice finishes with spray cans. I just want to be careful and not end up with a very thick paint job, hence the practice handle.

It had been a while since I took the D44 apart, I don't remember where the condenser wire (red box below) connected to, do you happen to know? This is my first saw I am pulling apart that has the external points and condenser...I should have taken a picture before taking it apart, but I was having such a good time that I forgot.

 

[heimannm]

The condenser hooks to the same terminal on the breaker points as the lead that runs to the coil.



Mark

 

[hacskaroly]

The condenser hooks to the same terminal on the breaker points as the lead that runs to the coil.

Awesome, thanks for the diagram!!

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Where's all the pictures of the mac 555s?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Got some unique felling spikes with a new to me saw.anyone know what the 2 small holes in the top of the clutch cover are for?

 

[heimannm]

Ira - From the CP70L IPL see the "sawdust guard" Item #11...evidently it didn't carry on but the replacement parts like those black clutch covers all came with the extra holes.



The spike has the look of an H&S, but I don't recall seeing one just like that before. I do have several different ones (painted silver) adjacent to the 10 Series full wraps on the right of the display below.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

I did have the 640 running today but it will need more attention one day if I can get some customer saws done and out of here. I believe I have an air leak as it is very slow returning to idle and very sluggish coming off idle. I will also have to get creative with some custom bar protector plates if this bar is to be used on this gear drive saws as the oiler holes are not lining up. It is pretty impressive just for looks and the balance is surprisingly good.











Mark

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Ira - From the CP70L IPL see the "sawdust guard" Item #11...evidently it didn't carry on but the replacement parts like those black clutch covers all came with the extra holes.

View attachment 445673

The spike has the look of an H&S, but I don't recall seeing one just like that before. I do have several different ones (painted silver) adjacent to the 10 Series full wraps on the right of the display below.

View attachment 445674

Mark

Thanks Mark, I figured you would know what those holes were for! Maybe I can rivet a piece of rubber there?
When I take the spike off for cleaning I'll take better pictures.

 

[hacskaroly]

Where's all the pictures of the mac 555s?

Send me a Mac 555 and I will take lots of pictures and post them, I only have a D44, 200 and a couple of 10-10s.

It is pretty impressive just for looks and the balance is surprisingly good.

The 640 looks really good with the bar on it!!

 

[Woodslasher]

View attachment 445666
Got some unique felling spikes with a new to me saw.View attachment 445667anyone know what the 2 small holes in the top of the clutch cover are for?

H & S for sure, the pronounced bottom spike is a dead giveaway.

 

[Squareground3691]

View attachment 445666
Got some unique felling spikes with a new to me saw.View attachment 445667anyone know what the 2 small holes in the top of the clutch cover are for?

H&S,

 

[edju1958]

I've got a somewhat silly question - what's the difference between the 640 & 650 gear drive saws?

 

[heimannm]

640 is a top tank, 650 and 660 are front tank. The 640 uses the same large gearbox as the other large frame gear drive saws, the 650 and 660 have a compact little gearbox that hides behind the clutch cover. If you don't look carefully, you'd never know the 650/660 saws were gear drives.







The 660 is a Super 250 with that compact gearbox.





Mark

 

[heimannm]

I was made aware of the availability of this SP125, price wasn't too bad compared to eBay these days.











I found a number of problems once the saw arrived, starter was clocked CCW due to damage to the original mounting holes, starter cover was badly worn from pulling straight back, rope was all wrong (5/16" braded polypropylene), starter handle had been "repaired", lower brace was broken, missing screws, mismatched paint, clutch cover was broken and repaired, missing protector from the frame (handlebar).

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I installed some 10-24 threaded inserts to get the starter back in the proper orientation, new 1/4" nylon rope, replaced the missing screws, changed out the broken lower brace for a repaired one I had on hand, and added/replaced some of the missing/damaged screws.



I had to mount the spike to the oil tank since the clutch cover was broken. You can see the protector I made from some 7/8" heater hose on the bottom of the handle bar.



Oiler works very well.



A tree service friend of mine will put this one to some real use.

Mark