MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Maintenance Chief]

I finally got to look at the 1010A that was acquired earlier in the summer. Most of the saw looks pretty good, with the exception of the overly opened up muffler(IMO). The piston and cylinder seem to be in very good shape.

The version of muffler that I'd like to replace it with is the one with the louvered vents similar to this picture. ( I think the p/n: is 600002).
Does anyone know where one could be found???

The 3 longer screws that hold the starter cover on could be replaced as well, also on my list to acquire.

I know I have an extra pancake muffler, if you come up empty.

 

[heimannm]

Ryan - I will try to remember and send some photos of the tie straps I found. Unfortunately they are all for the master joining link but I should have the master pin to go with them if that helps.

nbb - I presume you mean screws for the flywheel cover? I have screws and a few pancake mufflers. Send a PM if you are interested in pursuing the subject.

Mark

 

[Maintenance Chief]

 

[edju1958]

I finally got to look at the 1010A that was acquired earlier in the summer. Most of the saw looks pretty good, with the exception of the overly opened up muffler(IMO). The piston and cylinder seem to be in very good shape.

The version of muffler that I'd like to replace it with is the one with the louvered vents similar to this picture. ( I think the p/n: is 600002).
Does anyone know where one could be found???

The 3 longer screws that hold the starter cover on could be replaced as well, also on my list to acquire.

The 600002 is not a part #,it's the model # of the saw.You might try Mark Heimann for that louvered muffler.Bob Johnson,who had a great inventory of older Mac parts,was bought out recently by Max Rowe in Va.He's going through the inventory & will be selling those Mac parts in the neart future.Be patient.

 

[northwest saws]

Ryan - I will try to remember and send some photos of the tie straps I found. Unfortunately they are all for the master joining link but I should have the master pin to go with them if that helps.

nbb - I presume you mean screws for the flywheel cover? I have screws and a few pancake mufflers. Send a PM if you are interested in pursuing the subject.

Mark

Thanks Mark. That pin is the most important piece that I need.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[heimannm]

Things got in the way today, I will try to get on it tomorrow morning right away.

Mark

 

[Dream]

View attachment 348637View attachment 348638

Nice looking saws and felling work.
Poplar is one tree we have none of on our property.
There are some on my parents and grandparents places.
Cant tell exactly which saws those are. Like the wrap handle on them.

 

[Woodslasher]

Nice looking saws and felling work.
Poplar is one tree we have none of on our property.
There are some on my parents and grandparents places.
Cant tell exactly which saws those are. Like the wrap handle on them.

PM700 and SP81 I think.

 

[Squareground3691]

PM700 and SP81 I think.

Winner, Winner chicken dinner lol

 

[Woodslasher]

In my Mac news, a feller up north got me the clutch parts I needed to finish up my buddy's SP125, but when I went to run it the saw had lost spark completely. I have a complete 2nd ignition to poke at (untested, of course), or I have a chip on hand. Which option would be the better choice? (My 2nd coil is toast, fyi. The module slid/slides down the legs until the flywheel starts rubbing it.) Now, the saw did run a few days ago, and I'm pretty sure if the kill switch is close to the grip the saw is "on", pushed up next to the filter lid is "off", right?

 

[Vinnywv]

Yes on the kill switch.

Purists like the points. Chips can be fantastic though. Ive run into 2 though, both mac 125 saws that the wires were backwards from the little schematic provided with the chips. Twin post nova chips. I had to swap the wires around on the terminals to get it to run. If backwards it will backfire thru the carb. Ive only had that with the 125 saws though. Odd but true.

 

[jacob j.]

I believe with most of the solid-state chip conversions, the 125 is considered a positive ground, which is definitely strange. I prefer the chips these days - easy to tune and keep running.

I've had too many motors that were running good on points either have the condensers fail soon after or points foul in a short time. I had a kartsaw I was building for a member here
show fat blue spark on points when tested but didn't make enough voltage to actually run. I chipped it and it was a sweetie.

 

[Woodslasher]

I've got a pretty good wiring diagram on hand as the CP was/is chipped, so I'm thinking I'll just do that. Points are great if they work, but pulling the flywheel to check stuff gets old pretty quick.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Nice looking saws and felling work.
Poplar is one tree we have none of on our property.
There are some on my parents and grandparents places.
Cant tell exactly which saws those are. Like the wrap handle on them.

Yup SP81 and a Promac700 with one of Marks full wrap handles and .404 full comp.

 

[Al Smith]

Speaking of 125's I had to tame the beast today .It too had an "Atom Arc " when I got it which failed .As luck would have it the points etc where still intact under the flywheel ..I cleaned them up and put just a wee bit of advance on them .Now the problem is if it comes back on you it tries to pull you through the recoil .Enough is enough ,Stihl 460 D-handle .Much nicer . About 10 years ago I had an 084 Stihl come back on me hard and I could predict the weather for about 2 years . I got these off flea bay from a guy in Green Castle Mo. for about a dollar more than through a dealer .My dealer is 14 miles away I can't drive to and fro for 2 bucks After thought .That saw came from the big timber country of California .I forgot to mention it has an offset woodruff key which I think might be 2.5 degree .So I might guess between the points set slightly wide and the key it might be around 30 degree advance . I just know for a large saw this old bone shaker will really rev up . It usually runs a 36" bar but as it sits has a 24" I have used a 48" though about 4 or 5 times over the years . It runs an 8 pin rim .404 and full comp chain .

 

[Woodslasher]

Well, I have a problem. I tore down my CP125 to put a full complement of new bearings in it and pulled the wrist pin as well as the pin bearings only to discover that the new set of Torrington B-88's I have are slightly different than the ones that were in the saw. One of the new ones slides freely through both the holes in the piston, the other feels like it'll be a friction fit. However, the pin freely slides through both bearings. Is this typical, or are my (new) bearings, piston, or pin shot? Re-using the old ones is out of the question as all the needles came out during disassembly.

 

[heimannm]

The wrist pin is a press fit in the connecting rod to hold everything in place. The wrist pin bearings should be a press fit in the piston, ideally you have a tool to press them in as simply pushing the bearings in place without a mandrel to support the rollers can allow the "can" to crush a bit and cause the bearings to twist.

Mark

 

[Woodslasher]

The wrist pin is a press fit in the connecting rod to hold everything in place. The wrist pin bearings should be a press fit in the piston, ideally you have a tool to press them in as simply pushing the bearings in place without a mandrel to support the rollers can allow the "can" to crush a bit and cause the bearings to twist.

Mark

That's what I thought, only one bearing is a press fit into the piston and the pin isn't even remotely "tight" in the bearings. It isn't loose in the bearings per se (there's no slop), but the pin freely slides in and out when you tilt the piston from side to side.

 

[Woodslasher]

I decided to pull out a set of calipers to better describe my issue. In order, new bearing, old bearing, new bearing, old pin. The only difference I see is my new bearings are B-88 S bearings and the old ones (as well as all the n.o.s. Mac bearings I've seen) are B-88 C, but I don't see any way of ordering "C" sized bearings.

 

[Vinnywv]

Head scratcher there.