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Woodslasher

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I definitely got the sprocket for you and I think I got the filter lid too.
Awesome! Whenever you figure out whether you have a filter lid or not send me a pm and we'll work something out. I'm not in a huge rush since I've got a handful of more important projects sitting in line waiting for me to mess with them. I got a pic of the custom built throttle linkage someone made to convert the saw to an HL, and a pic of the piston
IMG_1027.JPG IMG_1028.JPG
 

edju1958

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I had my son get our logsplitter out of the barn on Father's Day & it had a flat tire with the bead broken.My air compressor wouldn't get enough pressure up to seal the bead.I ended up tying a poly rope around the tire to get a partial bead seal & then the compressor did it's job.I gave the engine (6.5 hp Briggs) an oil change & it fired up with a prime.
About a week into splitting,one of the set screws that holds the coupler halves together for the oil pump to the engine decided to vibrate loose & the coupler halves separated.The result was one of the couplers got the prongs sheared off & the Buna spider was chewed up.My son called his buddy & asked if we could borrow his splitter & he came over that evening with the splitter in tow.We used it till I got the new coupler for my splitter at Tractor Supply.This time I Loctited the set screws in place.
Last Sat.(7/3),I was determined to get the splitting done.We split for a while & my son wanted a break.I shut down the splitter with only 12 logs left to split & that was the end of splitting.I couldn't get the splitter's engine to start for nothing no matter what I tried.Yesterday for the helluvit I pulled the tarp off the engine,tuirned on the fuel & had it running for about 30 sec.,then it quit again.It's not a plugged fuel filter because if I leave the gas turned on it'll drip from the carb.I've had carb issues with this pig for the last 3 yrs.
Anyway,that's what I've been doing for the past 3 weeks.I think I ended up splitting around 26-27 cords of wood & stacking it all too.
 

heimannm

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I finally got tired of dealing with the carburetor issues on my splitter a year or two ago (8 HP Briggs & Stratton) and swapped it out for a 16 HP Duro Max I had left over from another project. It really loafs now.

To be completely honest about it, the B&S was probably 20 years old and spent most of the time uncovered outdoors.

20190706_091911.jpg

I had to beef up the chassis a bit since the new engine is heavier and is mounted further forward to provide clearance for the carburetor and air filter in the back.

20190706_092024.jpg

I cut most of the wood I split with McCulloch saws.

20210417_145445.jpg

Mark
 

heimannm

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Ed - I ended up having to replace the original coupling and spider with the next size up to accommodate the bigger engine...broke the ears right off the original.

Mark
 
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edju1958

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Something I gotta give credit to my dad for was drumming it into our skulls to keep our equipment indoors,especially during the winter months.I've had my splitter since 1995 & have gone through the original engine twice.I put the 6.5 hp Briggs on it 8 yrs.ago & it's done me well up till the cheapo carb they put on it pooped out.The shut off isn't working & the crankcase is full of gas.I gotta drain the "oil" out for the 2nd time this season just to split 12 logs.On the bright side - I won't have to change the oil next spring,Lol.Even when my splitter is outside during splitting season I keep the engine covered.I designed a lift for it in 2015 & had a guy put it together for me.He did a great job.It'll lift 800-1000 lb.logs.This yr.I cut most all my wood with Macs,about 26+ cord.
 

Yukon Stihl

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Just used my splitter today for the first time since last Sept.
The dump find Honda 6.5 hp in it started first pull. It sits outside under the woodshed roof
Seafoam in the gas
 

Al Smith

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The electric start 11 HP Briggs on my home built is a thumper .Oodles of power that I only run at about 1/3 throttle most of the time .It has a tendency to vibrate the screws out of the carb to engine connection . As such periodically I have to check the tightness .That plus once having to replace the starter gear once is the only problems it's ever given me .It sits out side covered with a piece of fiberglass once part of a shower from a travel trailer .It's a 16 GPM pump with an over sized coupler that so far has never failed .The whole thing for the most part is built from salvaged material .The cylinder is 5" Parker -Hannifin super duty rated at 4500 PSI that I doubt I will ever wear out .
 

Al Smith

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I might add when I build something it's heavy duty ,built like a battle ship .Other than Timber Wolf I doubt you can buy a commercially built splitter built this heavy .Plus I never run it up to the limited because at reduced RPM's it will out run me .Why push the limit on things ?
 

Squareground3691

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I might add when I build something it's heavy duty ,built like a battle ship .Other than Timber Wolf I doubt you can buy a commercially built splitter built this heavy .Plus I never run it up to the limited because at reduced RPM's it will out run me .Why push the limit on things ?
Iron & Oak build a pretty solid unit E3314543-95A1-4479-9223-59F5E9BB35F3.jpeg
 

Al Smith

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I might put a blurb in for Surplus Center Hydraulics .Unlike some they post their inventory they have on line .None of the back order nonsense that takes you a month to get .They don't push extended warranties on stupid stuff like a reducing bushing you could never break except maybe with a sledge hammer .Biggest thing you get your stuff in about 4 days not two weeks . Plus of course the pricing is reasonable .Good people to deal with IMO .
 

Mac131

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I finally got tired of dealing with the carburetor issues on my splitter a year or two ago (8 HP Briggs & Stratton) and swapped it out for a 16 HP Duro Max I had left over from another project. It really loafs now.

To be completely honest about it, the B&S was probably 20 years old and spent most of the time uncovered outdoors.

View attachment 342843

I had to beef up the chassis a bit since the new engine is heavier and is mounted further forward to provide clearance for the carburetor and air filter in the back.

View attachment 342845

I cut most of the wood I split with McCulloch saws.

View attachment 342846

Mark
These 3 saws are all you'd need to tackle pretty much anything. Very nice!
 

edju1958

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I was out picking raspberries this a.m.& I got a phone call.....from Bob! He sounded very weak,not as "robust" as he used to be.He asked how I was doing,Lol.I told him it was good to hear from him & told him that he gave everyone quite a scare & we were all concerned about him.He said he appreciated everyone's concern.I told him about the C72 (Homie) that I just got going & chatted for about 30 min.about other things.I asked him if he planned on getting back into the shop at all in the future & he said he seriously doubted it.He said he gets winded very easily & I told him it was most likely due to the other artery being blocked.Man it was good to hear from him!
 

Woodslasher

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I guess we all have our hobbies. But dang thats one pricey go kart.
There's one at my work with a 101A or 101AA engine on it, and another with a Homie Super 77 cylinder. Both beautifully restored and not for sale, but every time I look at the 101 I start wondering how hard it would be to find a 125 chassis....
 

Woodslasher

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Tagging @heimannm I pulled the bar off my 640 last night and I started cleaning it up so I could see the flying goose logo when I discovered something new for me. The bar has the old circular cutouts, but it's made by Oregon. I can't recall seeing a non-Mac bar with that tensioner setup, is that something you've run across before? I'm not sure if it was re-tipped, but it's still got plenty of hard facing left, and I think I have enough .404 x 0.058 chain pieces to spin up a loop for it when I get to that stage.
IMG_1035.JPGIMG_1034.JPG
 

heimannm

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Than "thumbnail notch" was used as the tensioner for several of the very early direct drive saws. The bar adjust screw has an oversize head that fits into the slot and pushes the bar as you back the screw out.

This is a fuel tank from a D-30, you can see the bar studs and the adjuster screw.

DSC02648.JPG

Other screws had the large "head", but the body of the screw stuck further out towards the front of the saw with a slot to make it easier to reach with a screwdriver.

20220712_064549.jpg

Mark
 

Woodslasher

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Than "thumbnail notch" was used as the tensioner for several of the very early direct drive saws. The bar adjust screw has an oversize head that fits into the slot and pushes the bar as you back the screw out.

This is a fuel tank from a D-30, you can see the bar studs and the adjuster screw.

View attachment 343123

Other screws had the large "head", but the body of the screw stuck further out towards the front of the saw with a slot to make it easier to reach with a screwdriver.

View attachment 343124

Mark
I had a 1-40 with the long screw type, I was just wondering if you'd seen an Oregon bar with the notch tensioner. The only bars I've seen with that tensioner style are the embossed McCulloch ones. On a related note, when I was picking up some off-brand parts from my local dealer today I asked if they had any .404 x 0.058 in the back. I was told no, but the other guy waiting at the counter said his neighbor had a few rolls of old chain so I gave him my contact and he'll check and see what the guy has. I don't want to get my hopes up too high, but I'd probably be interested in any chain the guy can turn up regardless of the gauge or whether it's 3/8, .404, 7/16, 1/2, etc.
 
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