MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[the 28inch mac man]

I agree, very happy with stuff I bought from Duke's. I don't doubt the air filter is quality, its just I have two older style 10-10s that take a dombed filter and not the flatter filter. So now I have a flat filter for a later model 10-10 I am sure I will get in the future at some point

Those domed air filters are tougher to find, but they do come up on ebay once and a wile. I have bought a few nos ones over the years.

 

[heimannm]

Just to add to the confusion, there were even several different types of the domed air filters. Some will fit only saw with the bullfrog carburetors and some will work on models with the Walbro/Tillotson cube type carburetors.







The rigid mount PM saws use the style filter in Dukes kit.

The AV saws use a flat filter, but even with that one there are 3 or 4 variations. The earlier saws had a thin rubber flange (earliest saws had no rubber flange at all) and the later PM800 family used a thicker flang.



There was also a fine brass mesh filter for use with the cold weather kit that ducted air over the muffler into the airbox.



I have a few filters available if you cannot find them elsewhere.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Logan - nice looking 39. Be careful as you clean it up, the paint on those can be pretty fragile. The 39 would have come from the factor with a stamped steel cover over the chain and sprocket.

The 39 had a deeper fuel tank that the other models, you can see it here if you look closely.



Mark

 

[LAWN BOY]

Logan - nice looking 39. Be careful as you clean it up, the paint on those can be pretty fragile. The 39 would have come from the factor with a stamped steel cover over the chain and sprocket.

The 39 had a deeper fuel tank that the other models, you can see it here if you look closely.

View attachment 439768

Mark

Thanks for the tips. I will search for a cover then.

 

[qurotro]

Have to take the whole saw apart just to replace the damn oil line… almost brand new pm610

 

[edju1958]

Yeah,those 600 series saws are a real bear when it comes to replacing an oil line.as someone once said "what did mcculloch do,start with an oil line & build a saw around it"?I've replaced at least 4 oil lines on those saws.It does get a little easier after the first couple,but still aggravating.

 

[hacskaroly]

Today I got one of my 10-10s cleaned up enough to start and see if it would fire up. For reference it is a 600005 prefix 16 (just a plain 10-10 from the early 70s with a right hand pull start). It took a bit of finagling, but I got the recoil/clutch cover on and the recoil drum seated in the pawls. When I went to pull the cord it didn't catch the pawls and just pulled the rope out and retracted. I did this several times and it finally caught, but then the next several pulls didn't catch the pawls, then finally it did, then another few pulls without catching. I finally got it to fire up and briefly run (needs new carb diaphragms), but is this normal for the right-handed 10-10 starters to work? I have two clutch guard/recoil assemblies and both are doing the same thing. I ensured that everything was seated as far as it could go. I have looked over both clutch guard/recoil assemblies and both are identical, all parts are there, nothing is broken off or excessively worn.

- Is this normal for these saws or should they catch the pawls each pull?

 

[heimannm]

hacskaroly - They should definitely catch on every pull. When installing the clutch cover/starter assembly, pull the rope out a foot or more and let it slowly rewind as you are seating the assembly in place. This allows the pawls to open up and position themselves around the starter shaft. Many clutches and starters have been damaged when folks simply bolt them on and tighten them down without insuring the pawls are properly positioned.

Both the starter shaft and the pawls will develop some wear and the rivets in the pawls may loosen up, these factors combine to prevent proper engagement when you are trying to start the saw. Sometimes just eliminating the bar protector plates provides enough additional engagement to allow the starter to work normally. In that case, to keep an eye on the chain tension as you don't want it coming off a high speeds potentially damaging the bar pad or starter housing.

You can try to tighten up the rivets if the pawls are loose, or replace the rivets and pawls altogether is they are badly worn. These pawls are in very good condition still for reference.



There were some late model 6-10 saws sold with a different pawl and rivet, but all of the 10-10 models should have used the 64857 pawl and 67112 rivets. 24093 was a much earlier part number but I cannot find any IPL's that show where it was used.



Mark

 

[LAWN BOY]

Got a 650 and 610 for $25 from a member here. Both run with a drink, need to clean fuel tanks and replace lines/filters.

 

[heimannm]

If the starter shaft (in the housing) or the bushing, or the starter pulley are badly worn that can also affect the way the pawls engage (or not engage). There were several different versions of the starter pulley and ratchet used over the years but they should be interchangeable.







Mark

 

[heimannm]

If you just bolt the cover on without insuring the pawls are properly engaged, they may detach...this was from a late model 6-10 that utilized the 24093 starter pawls. You can see the remains of the broken rivets.



Mark

 

[the 28inch mac man]

Today I got one of my 10-10s cleaned up enough to start and see if it would fire up. For reference it is a 600005 prefix 16 (just a plain 10-10 from the early 70s with a right hand pull start). It took a bit of finagling, but I got the recoil/clutch cover on and the recoil drum seated in the pawls. When I went to pull the cord it didn't catch the pawls and just pulled the rope out and retracted. I did this several times and it finally caught, but then the next several pulls didn't catch the pawls, then finally it did, then another few pulls without catching. I finally got it to fire up and briefly run (needs new carb diaphragms), but is this normal for the right-handed 10-10 starters to work? I have two clutch guard/recoil assemblies and both are doing the same thing. I ensured that everything was seated as far as it could go. I have looked over both clutch guard/recoil assemblies and both are identical, all parts are there, nothing is broken off or excessively worn.

- Is this normal for these saws or should they catch the pawls each pull?

Glad to hear you got the 10-10 running. If I remember correctly you need a piston for one of your 10-10's. On my scouring of the bay this morning, I ran into a nos 10-10 piston. It is about twice the price of the ducks piston, but worth every penny. Thought you might be interseted.

 

[hacskaroly]

There were several different versions of the starter pulley and ratchet used over the years but they should be interchangeable.

Both of my starter pulley/ratchets look like the center one in your picture, the one with four prongs and yellow. They have about the same wear - I am sure due to their age. I have pulled apart both starter assemblies, cleaned them and regreased them, all parts look to be in good shape.

Here are the two clutches I have, the one with the red spring is currently on the saw, looks like the top pic has pawls 24093 while the bottom pic has 64857:





I wonder if that is my issue. I can try swapping clutches and see if that changes anything. If it does, the I guess I will need to look at getting the correct pawls for the other clutch. From what I have seen, McCulloch had a lot of interchangeable parts between saws, so I might have a bit of a Frankensaw going on.

On another note, both of my 10-10s do not have a throttle lock assembly (no hole in the handle for one like the later models), does this saw need the trigger depressed (throttle wide open) when starting cold? If so, I will need three hands, one to depress the trigger, one to hold the saw and one to pull the cord...lol. I tried wedging my foot between the handle to keep it depressed, but that didn't work well.

Glad to hear you got the 10-10 running. If I remember correctly you need a piston for one of your 10-10's. On my scouring of the bay this morning, I ran into a nos 10-10 piston. It is about twice the price of the ducks piston, but worth every penny. Thought you might be interseted.

I appreciate it...definitely worth looking at! Thanks!

 

[the 28inch mac man]

The part# for the piston is 69212.

 

[the 28inch mac man]

Both of my starter pulley/ratchets look like the center one in your picture, the one with four prongs and yellow. They have about the same wear - I am sure due to their age. I have pulled apart both starter assemblies, cleaned them and regreased them, all parts look to be in good shape.

Here are the two clutches I have, the one with the red spring is currently on the saw, looks like the top pic has pawls 24093 while the bottom pic has 64857:

View attachment 439888

View attachment 439889

I wonder if that is my issue. I can try swapping clutches and see if that changes anything. If it does, the I guess I will need to look at getting the correct pawls for the other clutch. From what I have seen, McCulloch had a lot of interchangeable parts between saws, so I might have a bit of a Frankensaw going on.

On another note, both of my 10-10s do not have a throttle lock assembly (no hole in the handle for one like the later models), does this saw need the trigger depressed (throttle wide open) when starting cold? If so, I will need three hands, one to depress the trigger, one to hold the saw and one to pull the cord...lol. I tried wedging my foot between the handle to keep it depressed, but that didn't work well.


I appreciate it...definitely worth looking at! Thanks!

I have a few right hand start 10-10 without the throttle lock. The way you start them is you hold the rear handle and depress the throttle with one hand, and pull with the other. It takes practice, but you will get the hang of it. One thing I will say is take off the flywheel cover before you run the saw much. If there is a bunch of garbage under there you will burn the saw up real fast.

 

[hacskaroly]

I have a few right hand start 10-10 without the throttle lock. The way you start them is you hold the rear handle and depress the throttle with one hand, and pull with the other. It takes practice, but you will get the hang of it. One thing I will say is take off the flywheel cover before you run the saw much. If there is a bunch of garbage under there you will burn the saw up real fast.

Good to know, I will give that a try. I have already made sure the flywheel area is clean, I hate trying to run dirty saws with the flywheel kicking out a bunch of crap while tuning. I will end up fully taking down this saw, but I already have another 10-10 and D44 all apart, I need to get them back together before I take this 10-10 and a new to me 200 apart and all cleaned up. I just wanted to get this one running so that if I need to troubleshoot the other one, I can make comparisons. Nothing like trying to figure out what is wrong when the example you are working with is not working either.

 

[hacskaroly]

Update: I swapped clutches and installed the one with the 64857 pawls and it grabs every time now. Pulled like 20 times and no turn over, not even a pop...then I remembered "the switch"...yes, that one. Put it in the "ON" position, two pulls and it fired up. I have put it on the shelf for the moment until the carb kit shows up. Now to work on cleaning up some of my other Mac projects!

 

[Grant_J]

Update: I swapped clutches and installed the one with the 64857 pawls and it grabs every time now. Pulled like 20 times and no turn over, not even a pop...then I remembered "the switch"...yes, that one. Put it in the "ON" position, two pulls and it fired up. I have put it on the shelf for the moment until the carb kit shows up. Now to work on cleaning up some of my other Mac projects!

I’ve done that countless times since I got my 10-10. I was getting ready to cut some black locust a few days ago and just couldn’t get it to turn over. Realized that I never pulled down up on the switch. Made a fool out of myself in front of my own dad. I got so used to being lazy with the little metal toggle switch on Echos.

 

[heimannm]

I have developed the habit of always moving the switch back to the "ON" position after I shut one off. Then I can just pick it up and go again when I'm ready.











I almost always remember....

Mark

 

[Squish9]

Need some help with this bar, what models dose it fit? D196?