MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Gentlemen, can someone tell me what model #60004204 would be called?
310? Eager Beaver? There are no decals on it other than the model/serial number plate.

 

Should be ok for that.
Motoseal works well where theres no danger of deflection. Its less flexible than Dirko.

 

I also have Yamabond,but I think that's a more permanent thing.

 

Any of those will work Ed.

600042 corresponds with a Power Mac 310 but none of my IPL's are modern enough to have the extra digits. While they are hard to work on with the fuel line, impulse line, choke linkage, throttle lock, and throttle wire all terminating in that little air box, the engines are surprisingly strong for 2.3 In3.

Mark

 

Thanks Mark.

 

Ok guy just picked up a Mac 5-49. It looks to be in GREAT shape accept for one thing. It is locked up. Filled the cylinder with homemade kroil. I am working on getting some pictures.

 

Lets see

 

Now that I've got the oiler working (hopefully) on the PM650,I need to pull the clutch off to see what the bearing looks like.The chain just keeps spinning even at idle which suggests the bearing is dry,worn out,or one of the springs is broken.I don't think it's a broken spring because if it was it'd be locked & turn over when pulling the recoil over.I also need to replace the broken OPL.I got the needed parts for the 650 & my Timber Bear in the mail from Mark yesterday.Thanks Mark!.

 

So I went by a place I know to look for some old orange saw parts. While I was rooting around in the parts pile I saw some yellow sticking out.
Of course it followed me home.
Dont know what I was thinking.
Fixed the rusted air filter screw cap and put the carb stud back in that someone had screwed partially out.
Put a recoil handle on it.
Said what the heck, put some mix in the tank.
Of course it popped on 3 pulls, and started and ran the next.
I guess even the Italimacs are tough.
Now I gotta clean it up, and I'll probably give it a home.

 

What model is that Brent?

 

I pulled the clutch & drum off the 650 & greased the bearing even though it looked well lubed.Next I put the new OPL in that I got from Mark yesterday & was finishing up when my neighbor called me to tell me he had some English walnut for me.All I had to do was put the skid plate back on & the bar & chain & chain brake & it was off to the races.The saw cut,ran,idled,& oiled flawlessly.Now I've gotta get the stubborn recoil screws out for a good cleaning in there.

 

Powermac 380.
One of the "Italimacs" ive been told.
Made in Italy.
Same as the "Titans".
I was truly amazed it started and ran.

 

On that old 5-49 an old trick might work .If it's stuck above the ports take an old spark and knock the insulator out and braze a grease zert in it . .After it's soaked with penetrating oil long enough using a grease gun filled with oil injected into the cylinder it will move .The average grease gun is about 5,000 PSI .You only need to move the piston about 1/4" to free it up .
I'd have to look at the IPL of a 5-49 to know but that one could be one with a removable cylinder .I've never worked on one and most likely have only seen two in my life time .
I've shook a lot of stuck engines using that method .The last was a Partner p-100 that looked like it had spent some time in Great Salt lake .That one I unbolted the cylinder and pulled it because I wasn't certain if it was stuck in the crankcase to prevent further damage .---BRB I'll take a peek on the micro fiche if I can find it .----

 

I took a peek at it .From what I see it is a removable cylinder and could have a removable head .The IPL showed a 5-49 and a 7-55 and I couldn't tell one from another .It might have a rotary valve but I didn't spend enough time looking at it to tell .Mark would know I'll bet .
Having said all that you might be surprised once it's broke free how things look .In the Partner in the previous post it still showed the cross hatch in the cylinder and I could have reused the piston rings but instead used a set of Cabers . It might take a lot of elbow grease but you can raise them from the dead most of the time .

 

---Another model I wasn't aware even existed . IMO the "Italian jobs " were a last stand effort to regain the empire .They just let it slip away by not minding the store .Damned shame but it happened .

 

Now that is on good idea . I presume it is stuck above the ports. There is no kroil coming out of it.

 

Got me a 14x1.25 drain plug today. I will dill and tap it tomorrow for a 1/4 zert.

 

I made several ,m14 -1.25 of course plus M18 which I used to break a Ford 300 loose with .The story on that is I found a cylinder with both valves closed in their seats and had already soaked the rest with kerosene for a week .Popped it losse and got it to roll over with a breaker bar then rolled it with the starter . All the while forgetting I had 6 cylinders full of oil and got well oiled myself . Fired it up and drove it out of the woods. My wife RIP came running out of the house screaming the truck is on fire .Those oiled up cylinders were blowing smoke like a steam engine . Couldn't even see the back of the truck . Those BTW once the insulator was broken out could take pipe threads with reducing bushings and zerts .

 

I have never done the grease trick before. Should I empty the cylinder of the Kroil before I put the grease to it? I know it will make a mess.

 

No just pump away .You could use grease instead of oil also .What ever, fill the cylinder up so you aren't compressing air or at least not much of it .BTW I've also used this method to pop loose dead ended brake cylinders on big trucks .This idea goes back to the model A ford or before just often over looked or never heard of .The rest of the story as a teenager I was mentored by a bunch of WW1 and WW2 vets who took me under wing and taught me tricks that are almost unheard of these days .I was cutting parts on a change gear metal lathe at 14-15 years old and welding stock cars at about 17 .