MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[edju1958]

I've got an oil tank out of a 610 that has no stud in it.Long story short - 3 yrs.ago I got the 610 for $20.Someone had overtightened the bar stud & when I tried to take the nut off the stud just turned.I ended up drilling & cutting the stud out to get the chain brake off.What can I do to use that oil tank?I'll get a pic on here to show that it won't hold a new stud in place the way it is.

 

[heimannm]

Ed - I have a few spare 600 Series oiler rods and can probably find an oil tank if you can't repair that one. If you wanted to try something I would use JB Weld around the stud and press it in place with a good pool of JB around the head of the stud and let it cure for 24 hours.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

On another note, I found a few interesting McCulloch "special tools" as I was unpacking boxes today.

These are part of the PM6 Pressure Test Kit but there were a few of the intake adapter, more of the exhaust adapter, and a gallon bag full of the tapped fuel caps. The intake and exhaust adapter plats will also work on Mini Mac saws and the exhaust adapter fits 300 Series saws too.



These are the adapter plates for the 54cc 10 series saws. I need to check to see if the intake adapter is intended for the bullfrog carburetor or the Walbro/Tillotson cube carburetors.



This tool is used to support the piston when pressing the bearings in.





More to follow...

 

[heimannm]

This tool is used to set the wrist pin bearings to the correct position on the PM6 saws.



And this one is the driver to press the wrist pin out.



And here is the full pressure test kit for the PM6 saws.







Mark

 

[Al Smith]

I don't know how you keep that stuff all straight .I know what I have but it might take a month of Sundays to find it .

 

[edju1958]

Ed - I have a few spare 600 Series oiler rods and can probably find an oil tank if you can't repair that one. If you wanted to try something I would use JB Weld around the stud and press it in place with a good pool of JB around the head of the stud and let it cure for 24 hours.

Mark

I had considered using JB Weld,but...as you know magnesium is a very porous metal & it absorbs oil readily.I don't know if the JB Weld would adhere to the metal,especially on the inside of the oil tank that had oil sitting in it for eons.I'd need a new bar stud to replace the one that was destroyed,part # 92459.I'll be needing other parts too,so I'll get a list together.
Edit:I found a bar stud on Feebay for $4.I suppose for that price it's worth a try.

 

[Steve]

I had considered using JB Weld,but...as you know magnesium is a very porous metal & it absorbs oil readily.I don't know if the JB Weld would adhere to the metal,especially on the inside of the oil tank that had oil sitting in it for eons.I'd need a new bar stud to replace the one that was destroyed,part # 92459.I'll be needing other parts too,so I'll get a list together.

Heat it first. If you are worried about contamination then heat it with a propane torch till you are satisfied. Then rough the area for repair and clean with acetone. Then epoxy the area. I use a blasting cabinet to rough the area because it also removes essentially all mag corrosion and give a real good surface for the epoxy to grab

 

[edju1958]

Heat it first. If you are worried about contamination then heat it with a propane torch till you are satisfied. Then rough the area for repair and clean with acetone. Then epoxy the area. I use a blasting cabinet to rough the area because it also removes essentially all mag corrosion and give a real good surface for the epoxy to grab

That's all well & good if you have access to a blasting cabinet,I don't.What makes it even more difficult is the area that needs to be attanded to is the bolt that's the furthest from the front.
I had another oil tank here that had a hole in it that could've been patched with JB Weld,but like the dumb ass that I am I threw it out thinking I'd never need it,duh.

 

[edju1958]

My son &I went to our neighbor/friend's place to take down a cherry tree for him.It was about 25 ft.tall & at the base about 34 in.We took the SP81,Timber Bear,& the PM10-10.I was going to take 3 more saws,but they just wouldn't fit in my son's Hyundai.Of course the 81 has a full wrap handle & the scrench wouldn't fit on the rear nut to loosen them so I could tighten the chain.The neighbor/friend is totally disorganized for tools & brought out a 1/2 in.socket with a channel lock pliers (really?).We used the Timber Bear to drop the tree & after the tree was on the ground he came out with the ratchet.I was able to tighten the chain & use the 81 to cut up the trunk section of the tree & cut the stump right down to the ground.There will be close to 2 cords of wood.We went through 2 tanks of fuel in the 81,one tank in the Timber Bear,& one tank in the PM10-10.I should've gone through less fuel,but the Timber Bear & the PM10-10 were set a bit on the rich side.I might have to pull the carb on the 10-10 for a rebuild because it wants to load up if not cutting on the level.The 81 ran flawlessly as it should after the engine rebuild last yr.It fired right up after sitting for almost an entire yr.
Now I need to disassemble 2 carbs to put in my ultrasonic cleaner.

 

[northwest saws]

Need a little help identifying this saw. I'm 95% sure it's at least a 797 but could also be a super 797. Model number on the underside of the crankcase is 66251. Underneath the serial number there is also 13 and a couple letters stamped in. A couple unique features are the cp directional muffler, the larger tillotson hl103 carb and there is also a boost port cover. I measured the bore at 2.28 inches.

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[Vinnywv]

Not sure but its a biggun. Bet it will sound old and grumpy!

 

[Dream]

That's all well & good if you have access to a blasting cabinet,I don't.What makes it even more difficult is the area that needs to be attanded to is the bolt that's the furthest from the front.
I had another oil tank here that had a hole in it that could've been patched with JB Weld,but like the dumb ass that I am I threw it out thinking I'd never need it,duh.

And...
I believe the 610 and 650 have the same oil tank.
Could have sent you one.
I have two, just in case you need it. I'll gladly send it, just let me know.

 

[Dream]

My son &I went to our neighbor/friend's place to take down a cherry tree for him.It was about 25 ft.tall & at the base about 34 in.We took the SP81,Timber Bear,& the PM10-10.I was going to take 3 more saws,but they just wouldn't fit in my son's Hyundai.Of course the 81 has a full wrap handle & the scrench wouldn't fit on the rear nut to loosen them so I could tighten the chain.The neighbor/friend is totally disorganized for tools & brought out a 1/2 in.socket with a channel lock pliers (really?).We used the Timber Bear to drop the tree & after the tree was on the ground he came out with the ratchet.I was able to tighten the chain & use the 81 to cut up the trunk section of the tree & cut the stump right down to the ground.There will be close to 2 cords of wood.We went through 2 tanks of fuel in the 81,one tank in the Timber Bear,& one tank in the PM10-10.I should've gone through less fuel,but the Timber Bear & the PM10-10 were set a bit on the rich side.I might have to pull the carb on the 10-10 for a rebuild because it wants to load up if not cutting on the level.The 81 ran flawlessly as it should after the engine rebuild last yr.It fired right up after sitting for almost an entire yr.
Now I need to disassemble 2 carbs to put in my ultrasonic cleaner.

If that 1010 loads up when put on its side, you might have an air leak problem instrad of a carb problem.
Thats what happened with my PM6A.
Runs fine when held level and upright, but revs up and bogs when turned on its side.

 

[heimannm]

66251 and the HL mean it is a 797. The Super had an adapter and SDC carburetor.

Mark

 

[northwest saws]

Thanks Mark, some good info! Love learning about all the variations. With McCulloch it seems like there's no shortage of that! However, their lack of decision making when it comes to color schemes actually makes for a bit of fun.

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[edju1958]

I pulled those 2 carbs apart,a Walbro & a Zama,& ran them through the ultrasonic cleaner.The Walbro went through it twice & I put it back together.The Zama I ran through about 4 times because when I took it apart I found white powder on the hi needle with some rust,but not where it seats.There was also white powder in the screen well & all over the screen.I've never seen that in a carb before.I was wondering if croakus cloth on the hi needle would hurt anything?I just hope the seat didn't get messed up.
I've got another Zama that should be good,the gasket & diaphragm were reversed in it when I bought it.I've also got 2 Walbro carbs that I can't get to hold pressure for nothing.I put 2 coats of nail poplish on the welch plug & they still leaks like a sieve.

 

[edju1958]

If that 1010 loads up when put on its side, you might have an air leak problem instrad of a carb problem.
Thats what happened with my PM6A.
Runs fine when held level and upright, but revs up and bogs when turned on its side.

It never revs at a highspeed,just bogs down when on it's side.I got that saw last fall from a seller on Feebay & he told me it sat for many yrs.I was expecting I'd have to pull the carb back then,but it fired right up & ran fairly well.If the carb rebuild doesn't help,then I'll replace a seal or two.

 

[edju1958]

And...
I believe the 610 and 650 have the same oil tank.
Could have sent you one.
I have two, just in case you need it. I'll gladly send it, just let me know.

I'll see how my repair turns out,if it doesn't work then I'll hit you up for the oil tank.There's one thing I overlooked when I said I had everything for the 650.I have the rear plate for the switch,BUT....it has the wrong model # on it.The rear plates I have are for 610sThey'll fit OK,but the model #s will be wrong.

 

[Dream]

I'll see how my repair turns out,if it doesn't work then I'll hit you up for the oil tank.There's one thing I overlooked when I said I had everything for the 650.I have the rear plate for the switch,BUT....it has the wrong model # on it.The rear plates I have are for 610sThey'll fit OK,but the model #s will be wrong.

Wont take up much space if you need one.
I need to verify the model numbers on both rear plates anyway to make sure they were both 650s. One cylinder didnt have a decomp.
Had the same color schemes etc.

 

[Al Smith]

FWIW some times those 40 year old fuel lines can develop a crack inside the gas tank .It works until you tip it to one side or the other which opens up the crack and it sucks air .It isn't always just limited to McCullochs because they'll all do it .