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Muddsaw

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I ran my 10-10a today like I stole it. It ran me ragged.
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heimannm

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I have been busy trying to get my snow blower attachment on my Struck mini dozer.

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I posted a question in the mowers 'n more forum but no replies yet as to the RPM of the rotor/impeller. I am calculating that at 3,600 RPM on the engine (separate engine will mount on the plate above) the rotor will be spinning 675 RPM. I hope that is about right.

Mark
 

Al Smith

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Those 610's will rattle the screws loose given enough time .I might also add they have a tendency to pack saw dust under the cylinder which will over heat or not allow air flow which will cause the coil to temporarily fail when they shut down to be fueled .The only thing to do is wait it out until the coil cools off because you could pull your arm out of the socket before then .That saw BTW is all metric .

Other than that they will almost run forever .They may have a lot of plastic but they are tough SOB's .
 

fossil

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I have been busy trying to get my snow blower attachment on my Struck mini dozer.

View attachment 39239

View attachment 39240

View attachment 39242

I posted a question in the mowers 'n more forum but no replies yet as to the RPM of the rotor/impeller. I am calculating that at 3,600 RPM on the engine (separate engine will mount on the plate above) the rotor will be spinning 675 RPM. I hope that is about right.

Mark


Maybe contact Struck. They have a small forum as well that may be worth a try.
http://struckcorp.com/forums/
 

Muddsaw

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My friendly lil beaver

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Brewz

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I met someone a few Mac fans may know or know of today

Bob Cornwell otherwise known as Mcbob on a few forums before he was banned

http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?t=216

He took me and showed me his collection and it was something special

Many epic classics, saws that have won Aus national race championships, more 090's and contras than I have ever seen in one place.

Here is the one I liked the best.
It takes pride of place high on the mantle piece

IMG_0068.JPG

I also liked seing the rare BP saw.
Balanced piston I believe

Had a great chainsaw morning
 

heimannm

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Bob is a good guy, we have chatted a bit and traded some stuff.

Mark
 

Sleeper

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Now I got two Super 44A's here... (one has a S55A block) going to be my winter project to make a runner out of the two. Paid a decent sum for the complete second one, which came with a bar and chain. Chain doesn't look usable, but it gives me the size I need for a new loop. First S44A was a gift from a friend, but was missing a couple parts and needed a crankshaft.

Both are in pretty good external shape. Will post pics of the second one soon. I have started to take it apart already.

Acre's site lists the S55A as a different bore and stroke... but elsewhere it is said to be the same as the S44A. I will find out for sure once I can compare the two cranks side by side, or when I get around to looking at the IPL's I have.

The second one hangs up partway to TDC, so the head needs to come off to see what happened. Side of the piston looks good through the exhaust port, no scoring, bore is shiny though. Might just be rust or dirt buildup in the cylinder. Worst case, bore it out and put a bigger piston/ring set in.

The first one with the bad (repairable) crankshaft is still all together and has compression. Planning to just swap cranks and a couple other parts and get it running.

Does anyone make stronger rod bolts for these? Or a stronger connecting rod? I don't want it coming apart... I will be doing a governor delete and will also install a Tillotson HL.
 

Sleeper

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Pics... one of the outside, one showing the bore, and one showing the piston.

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Looking forward to tearing this thing apart completely and organizing the pieces. Then it's time to tear the other one apart.
 

Sleeper

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Before I even break the impact out, is the flywheel nut standard lefty loosey, righty tighty, or is it lefty tighty, righty loosey? (RHT or LHT)
 

Al Smith

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On a right hand start it's always a right hand thread . I don't think you need to worry about the rod bolts failing .

What you might have is just a rust ring stopping the piston movement .Remove the head and pop the piston out the top .Hone the cylinder,clean up the piston ,make certain the rings are good and put it back together .I doubt you have any problem with it ..

I've got a super 44 A with the gov bypassed .I've never had a problem with it .

Remove the mag,maybe the flywheel,points etc .Throw the whole mess in a tub full of kerosine for about a week .It'll come apart .
 

Sleeper

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Okay. Kerosene... will have to get some of that and a tub that I'm not using.

I did manage to get the flywheel nut off. Didn't take hardly anything from the impact to spin it off. Just lightly laid my finger on the trigger and it hit once, twice and spun it off.

Flywheel's being a *b-word like usual... they don't like coming off of that taper after 40+ years. Sprayed some bolt buster on the taper and heated it up with a propane torch and threaded the flywheel nut on again (only part way) and beat on it with a hammer while holding the flywheel... yeah, not getting anywhere.

I think I am either going to make or buy a small engine flywheel removing tool.

Thanks for the help, Al. Not going to stress about getting the rod bolts, if it can't be reasonable, then the stock bolts will go back in.
 

Sleeper

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Got the flywheel off. Had a puller sitting around doing nothing, but no bolts. Ran out to get bolts... for my puller I needed 3" long 1/4"x20 threads... needed two. Grabbed some washers as well since the bolts would have slipped through the slots in the puller. Tightened it up and couple hits with a small hammer and the flywheel popped right off.

Next is trying to get the rear handle off... tricky and it looks like I have to take the screws holding the two handle halves together out in order to be able to separate the oiler rod, choke rod, and throttle rod. Took the shaft that holds the oiler and choke buttons in place out as well.

Did get the front handle off without an issue... did not even remove the clamps on the sides of the top mounting plate, which said plate attaches to the tank. Did take a little thinking with the right side hex bolt that holds the plate to the tank... no room for a standard wrench in the conventional way of turning it unless the front handle is removed... and I could not find my ignition wrenches, so I stood it straight up with the open end on the bolt flats and used a screwdriver in the closed end to gain leverage. There was enough room for the initial bolt loosening, so I wasn't trying to free a tight bolt.

Tank screws were not a problem, the only minor hiccup there is the two center screws by the gas cap... those holes get packed full of crap.

Almost there... this saw was definitely rebuilt once before, so a screw is missing a washer.

Whoever used this saw after they had the S55A engine swapped in used it for quite a while since there was crap packed in behind the flywheel and on the cylinder fins.

Coil has a big crack in it, so a new or good used coil will have to be ordered. Also will order a clutch drum and rim sprocket. The spur sprocket is fairly worn.

Tomorrow will be another day of collecting firewood. Saw work will come later.
 

heimannm

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44=55, 44A=55A, S44A=S55A; 72, 80, and 87cc if I remember correctly.

I have a 44 that starts easily and runs well, and a 55 that runs extremely well even with the 9/16 or 5/8 pitch chain.

McCulloch 44 Series.JPG

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Mark
 
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