MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Stump Shot]

@Sleeper , If indeed your screws do have Loctite on them , heat from a torch is usually does the trick for removal.

 

[Al Smith]

Measured the bore of the cylinder and it comes out to 2.128" at the top of the cylinder. Piston is about 2.125" Think honing it and a set of rings will work?

I'm not certain if I have an IPL for that one or not .I can only assume it might be the same bore as a 250 .Someplace I have the general parts lists concerning pistons,rings etc if I can find it .That 44A should have a cast iron cylinder liner so a light hone should be okay .
That engine if memory serves is the bassis of the MC 10 kart engine .That said if it were myself the object would be to make it run and forget about making a racer out of it .If you want it to cut faster replace the .404 chain with 3/8".That thing in stock form was rated at over 6HP .What it lacks in RPM's it makes up for in torque .Keep in mind it's a run on occasion saw not a daily user .

 

[Al Smith]

Any thoughts on putting a header off a regular 250 on it? I have 2 lol

You'd be better off to pull the baffle plates than use a spark arrester from a 250 wear your ear plugs

 

[T.Roller]

You'd be better off to pull the baffle plates than use a spark arrester from a 250 wear your ear plugs

That's what I'll do. It's already loud but I'm always on a quest to make em louder. Thank you sir

 

[Sleeper]

Unloaded the wood in the trailer this morning... and right before lunch, I further disassembled the S44A engine (S55A block) Found a bad PTO crank seal that was hard and had a crack in it, and the flywheel side seal feels pretty hard as well.

Going to the bearing supply sometime next week to get bearings and seals.

Also, the felt seal that protects the push rod for the points was rough... there was crud getting past it and some built up around the push rod end and there was a little rust on the surface of the crank where the push rod rides on it. What I plan on doing for the seal there is finding one that will fit in the hole, and modifying the seal a little to clear the push rod boss. An actual rubber lip should be a much better way to seal to the crank than felt.

Another thing I will do next week is find a place that has a glass bead blaster I can use... going to clean up the cylinder on the outside, the cylinder head, and the flywheel side bearing support/back plate/housing.

The rest of the outside parts are only going to be carefully washed in a parts washer... they are in nice shape paint wise, especially considering this saw (or at least the outside parts) were made somewhere between 1959-1960.

As for honing, I will use my simple spring loaded hone with a drill... not going to be perfect like a Sunnen machine hone, but should be good enough.

 

[T.Roller]

 

[jeepsnchainsaws]

I'm not a Mac guy and really would like to find a better home for these.
All three turn over and one is a gear head, don't know much more than that.
Will trade for Homelite stuff or whatever. parts parts parts!

 

[T.Roller]

The 35 's are cool. I have 2. Both run.

 

[jeepsnchainsaws]

View attachment 41318 The 35 's are cool. I have 2. Both run.

Kind of a odd angle on the bar. Any reason for that?

 

[T.Roller]

Kind of a odd angle on the bar. Any reason for that?

That's the way they are. Not sure why they are like that

 

[heimannm]

The watering can saw with the bar at the odd angle is a Model 35. There are many attachments available for the 33/35/39 models including drills, spur gear drive for auger bits, brush cutter, ice/earth auger, etc.

The one without the lower brace is likely a 1-42 or 1-43 as they were sold without the brace like that.

The one with the Power Products engine is not a McCulloch, engine appears to be a 58 (5.8 In3).

Mark

 

[Al Smith]

Look a little closer,it's an AH 47

 

[fossil]

I'm not certain if I have an IPL for that one or not .I can only assume it might be the same bore as a 250 .Someplace I have the general parts lists concerning pistons,rings etc if I can find it .That 44A should have a cast iron cylinder liner so a light hone should be okay .
That engine if memory serves is the bassis of the MC 10 kart engine .That said if it were myself the object would be to make it run and forget about making a racer out of it .If you want it to cut faster replace the .404 chain with 3/8".That thing in stock form was rated at over 6HP .What it lacks in RPM's it makes up for in torque .Keep in mind it's a run on occasion saw not a daily user .

250 bore is 2.125"

 

[Al Smith]

S 44A Rings --Mac part number 55123 same as the 250.Same piston also 53941A ,standard .They list them up t0 30 thou over which I'd well imagine these days are about as rare as a hens tooth.

 

[Al Smith]

Seems to me somebody advertised those rings on flea bay ,Cabers .If not maybe Bryce in Washington state or Mike Acres .
For that matter Mac made a zillion 250's .A non runner could probably be had for a 12 pack of beer.

 

[heimannm]

You're right Al, 47 it is, I have not seen a 47 with that shape flywheel cover before.

Mark

 

[Al Smith]

They put that engine on everything from chainsaws to lawn mowers .I have two, one on a David Bradley 360 and one on a Lombard model 36 I think .That one has a float carb like they used on old boat motors
When they used them on go karts it was so pitifully slow they ran in a special class of their own .Horstman made a high comp head for them that had a stuffer to raise the comp that sealed with a piston ring .They were still slow but not as .That aside that engine would almost run forever .

 

[Sleeper]

Got to the bearing shop today and ordered crank bearings and seals... all US made stuff. About 50 bucks for the whole deal.

Did not get a seal for the bore where the points push rod goes... bearing place didn't have anything to measure that bore, so I will be doing it with my telescoping gauge and micrometer... then will look for a seal that might work. Or I might just go to a place that sells felt packing and put a new felt piece in.

Just playing it safe with this by buying bearings... they might be fine, but I'd rather not have one fail and have to take it all apart a second time.

 

[Al Smith]

Speaking of points ,the "book" suggested siting same by using the celophane from a pack of cigarettes .How quaint is that .

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Todays score.





Needs a new muffler and decomp. oh and a 72" bar

Now I need a 895, guy has 2 locally. Talking him out of one is difficult part though..