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Dream

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Got to run the PM700 with the NOS 28" Mac bar for a few minutes. Plenty of power. Never bogged buried in dry water oak. Running a Stihl skip tooth chain. Seems pretty grabby, and really doesnt bite the way I like. Think it would pull a full house chain?
 

heimannm

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Dream - Full comp (compliment), not full house. Full compliment is a cutter every other link, full house is a cutter on every link and only used for very peculiar situations. This is a full compliment chain with a bit of an issue.

20200101_100456.jpg

Egg Shooter - I have several options for NOS McCulloch bars in hard nose or 1/4" sprocket nose. Contact me if you are interested.

Mark
 

Steve

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Got to run the PM700 with the NOS 28" Mac bar for a few minutes. Plenty of power. Never bogged buried in dry water oak. Running a Stihl skip tooth chain. Seems pretty grabby, and really doesnt bite the way I like. Think it would pull a full house chain?


I find skip chain grabby. I only run full comp chain. Never had a 28 on a 70cc mac. They pull a 24 with authority so i dont see why a fresh one would not.
 

fossil

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Dream - Full comp (compliment), not full house. Full compliment is a cutter every other link, full house is a cutter on every link and only used for very peculiar situations. This is a full compliment chain with a bit of an issue.

View attachment 216503

Egg Shooter - I have several options for NOS McCulloch bars in hard nose or 1/4" sprocket nose. Contact me if you are interested.

Mark

A young guy might be quick enough to push that back and forth quick enough to work.
 

Dream

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LOL! Mark, that looks like something I might have done. Only 3 cutters though.
Didnt know there was a difference between full comp and full house. Never seen one of those.
Thanks for the enlightenment. I will amend my terminology.
I wasnt really impressed by how that skip tooth chain cut in dry oak. Grain was really twisted, so I guess I was almost ripping at some points. Cross cut was pretty good, noodled fair.
 

heimannm

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I was thinking it might cut a bit slow, but would still cut even if the chain was mounted backwards.

Mark
 

Steve

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I was thinking it might cut a bit slow, but would still cut even if the chain was mounted backwards.

Mark

New homeowner chains that stays sharp twice as long? :D
 

fossil

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Likely faster one way than the other. It might sound interesting.
 

Dream

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Maybe if you did ever other set of cutter reversed. Would be similar to a skip tooth. Just turn it around when it stops cutting. There could be a market.:cool::confused:
 

Dream

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So yesterday I came in early from work and decided to rebuild the carb for the PM6A ive had under the bench for awhile. Got the new Welsh plugs in with due amount of aggravation. Used a thin ring of Seal All around the edges just in case. Used a 3/8" socket wrench extension to flatten them into place. Had worked well for me in my past life some years ago when I briefly tried to make a living doing it. Rest of the carb kit went in reasonably well. I had previously disassembled it and soaked in a bucket of NAPA brand carb cleaner(my carb spa). Maybe a week out of town was too long, as it has a dark grey color now, but hoping it didn't eat up the passages too much.
Got all of the little annoying nylon spacers put back in place for the carb and the coil. (Those were put there by a Sadist who should have had professional help, and should NEVER have been allowed to be in the general public, let alone a position of authority). Set the air gap for the coil to approximately .008. That's what the Horrible freight calipers said the piece of the back cover to the Haynes manual for our 1995 Jeep Wrangler was.
I also put a Viton O-ring in the fuel line inlet on the carb, as recommended here by another member. (No disrespect meant, just too lazy to look up who.)
Seemed to have a much tighter seal when I pushed the tank assembly on, but wont know until I find the U- shape captive nuts I need to fix the butcher job the PO did by jamming wood screws into the case.
Also have to find a good solution to the lower attachment point for the front handle. The top is badly beaten up. I can fix that with a drill and tapping it to accept a machine screw, thus keeping it tight, and mitigating further wear.
The bottom has elongated and worn through the attachment point on the bottom of the saw casing. I can put a captured nut in there, but it still will rely on torque alone to hold it. I may try to fabricate a strap and put an additional connection point further back in the casing as insurance.
Lots of extra work here I know, but id love to keep this lil guy as original as I can. It's got great compression and spark. Fuel issue is hopefully solved with the cleaning and kit. I think it will be ready to go if I can make the recoil cover connection solid again.
Looking forward to limbing up felled tops and using this one for topping/limbing work on standing trees as it was intended.
I have a file for the 1/4" chain it has. Its in pretty good shape. Anyone know any tips or tricks for getting performance out of this tiny chain?
 

Al Smith

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Just as a reference the first saw I ever owned and still have is Poulan s-25DA I bought in 1974 .It came with 1/4" chain .I didn't do anything special with it to sharpen it . If memory serves it took a 5/32" file which is the same as 3/8" low profile .It's since been switched over to 3/8" low because it became next to impossible to find 1/4". Now I've seen little tiny 1/8" files but I've never used one
I've got a box full of chain loops of odd sizes I got from flea bay just to get a few loops of 1/2" chain .In that box which must weigh 25 pounds are some loops of mini mac chain still in the original McCulloch packaging . I'm not sure if they are 3/8" or 1/4" or how long they are .At the moment I'm even sure where the box is .
 

av8or3

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I don’t know for sure, cause I bought a lot of 7 saws. This and a Husky 61 are running. It’s looking like I might be able to say I got it for free after I sell the Husky:D
 

av8or3

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It came in a nice yellow perfectly fitted Mcculloch case. Save for a few scratch’s on the bottom it looks perfect. The case is why it still looks so new. image.jpg
 

Dream

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Somehow I knew Mark would have one that was extra minty in the original case.:campeon::)
I have a few Mini Macs. Got a 25, a 110, and a mini mac 6 that I found at the same time I got my power mac 6. Hope to have the PM6 going soon, then a Homie XL for a first saw for a young coworker, then maybe I'll go into the Mini Mac 6. Be nice to have a business/casual combo.
 

Al Smith

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You can find mini Macs with the original chain that's never been filed .These things were very inexpensive and a lot were sold, the buyers only used them for a short time and they then had sat so long they would not start . You can find two kinds ,those that do run usually run good.The others don't run at all .
For the age all things considered in their class they do okay .These things were in the age of the Homelite xl-2's and about the same price range if memory serves .Micro saws are what they are and the value is in the eye of the beholder .As far as either brand I have an all metal Poulan 1.9 cubic inch that will outrun both off them .It was my climber before I got the pair of Stihl MS 200 T's
 

Al Smith

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Skilsaw made micro saws in every color of the rainbow sold under a number of brand names just as Poulan did .I've got two or three some place if I didn't give them away at some time .I don't pay for these little things ,they just show up like stray cats .Usually it's just a carb rebuild then they are give aways or trading stock .
 

Dream

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Never had my hands on one of those. I'm sure they got down here, but I havent been able to snag any. Little top handle Poulans and Mini Macs are everywhere.
 
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