MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[fossil]

No wonder you're having an issue. Darn near impossible to get that in. That should be a 10mm panel size grommet.

 

[Al Smith]

You can do some very ingenious methods but when it all boils down it's hard to beat a factory molded fuel line .I personally have never had a problem with a 10 series replacement line but then again I haven't had that many that needed replaced
The most frustrating was a 2100 Husqvarna I tried a zillion half-fast fixes before I gave up and located an OEM replacement .It cost me 20 bucks but I never did another thing to it .

 

[Majorpayne]

You can do some very ingenious methods but when it all boils down it's hard to beat a factory molded fuel line .I personally have never had a problem with a 10 series replacement line but then again I haven't had that many that needed replaced
The most frustrating was a 2100 Husqvarna I tried a zillion half-fast fixes before I gave up and located an OEM replacement .It cost me 20 bucks but I never did another thing to it .

I bought a replacement line on ebay in the beginning but it was too stiff and kinked where it needs to bend plus it came apart when I removed it. The old line leaks where it goes on the barb of the carb. Is there any way of repairing it I wonder?

 

[Steve]

Just do this and be done. Converts from molded to off the roll tygon. That is what i do.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/381704120609

 

[Al Smith]

https://northwoodsaw.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1032

 

[Majorpayne]

Just do this and be done. Converts from molded to off the roll tygon. That is what i do.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/381704120609

It didn’t have good reviews.

 

[Majorpayne]

https://northwoodsaw.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1032

It looks like the one from eBay that kinked.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I say stick with a grommet solution if you can find a good fit. And use real F-4040-A Tygon, not just some yellow line being sold as 'tygon'. Can't believe someone hasn't flat out nailed this down by now. The grommet needs to fit a 1/4" panel (6.35mm) with a .416" diameter hole (10.56mm) and accommodate a what..., 5/32" (3.96mm) fuel line?

That should be a 10mm panel size grommet.

I think that'd still be a little small for a .416" diameter opening. 11mm or 12mm would ensure a tighter fit if you can sneak em in without collapsing the inside hole for the fuel line itself. The grommets he has are pushing 14mm.

'Course the other option is to enlarge the panel opening. Problem there is the lack of real estate at the top of the hole to do so.

 

[Majorpayne]

I say stick with a grommet solution if you can find a good fit. And use real F-4040-A Tygon, not just some yellow line being sold as 'tygon'. Can't believe someone hasn't flat out nailed this down by now. The grommet needs to fit a 1/4" panel (6.35mm) with a .416" diameter hole (10.56mm) and accommodate a what..., 5/32" (3.96mm) fuel line?

I think that'd still be a little small for a .416" diameter opening. 11mm or 12mm would ensure a tighter fit if you can sneak em in without collapsing the inside hole for the fuel line itself. The grommets he has are pushing 14mm.

'Course the other option is to enlarge the panel opening. Problem there is the lack of real estate at the top of the hole to do so.

I have a piece of real Tygon to use. The hell of it is, I don't own the saw and am already out close to $30 that I will not charge for because the owner works on my furnace and appliances super cheap.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I hear ya. Have the same deal with my furnace guy, but we both heat with wood for the most part. Go figure.

Another minor point in all this is, there may be a spring in the old line that you could retrieve and use in the new one at that bend to keep it from kinking. That's why there would be one in the old line (if one is actually there). May get you out from under this if you're lucky.

 

[Majorpayne]

I hear ya. Have the same deal with my furnace guy, but we both heat with wood for the most part. Go figure.

Another minor point in all this is, there may be a spring in the old line that you could retrieve and use in the new one at that bend to keep it from kinking. That's why there would be one in the old line (if one is actually there). May get you out from under this if you're lucky.

There’s no spring in the old one . The new one was not the same as old one being longer and stiffer but was sold as fitting the 10-10.

 

[heimannm]

I put that grommet in an SP tank on Friday, it was tricky but went in without any failures. I used some soapy water to lubricate the 5/16" O.D. fuel line and it was tight, but I am confident it will be a leak proof solution.

I have some of the kits that Steve notes above, but I am not comfortable pulling the barb fittings out and putting the alternate in place. I am sure the negative reviews are because the sealer is hardened in the tube, something he used to note in his listings but evidently has chosen to omit.

Mark

 

[Majorpayne]

I put that grommet in an SP tank on Friday, it was tricky but went in without any failures. I used some soapy water to lubricate the 5/16" O.D. fuel line and it was tight, but I am confident it will be a leak proof solution.

I have some of the kits that Steve notes above, but I am not comfortable pulling the barb fittings out and putting the alternate in place. I am sure the negative reviews are because the sealer is hardened in the tube, something he used to note in his listings but evidently has chosen to omit.

Mark

Is the SP tank the same as the 10-10?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The tanks themselves are a little different, but they both specify the same OEM 64848 fuel hose according to the Pro 10-10 and SP81 IPL's I just checked.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I feel your frustration, brutha....

 

[Steve]

It didn’t have good reviews.

I have put these in a 10-10 and a PM60. No problems. I have also used the aftermarket molded lines too. No problems either.

 

[fossil]

Is the SP tank the same as the 10-10?

Last resort. I'd be cutting the lines off the MAC line tank fitting section you bought. Run a hot nail a little smaller than the Tygon line you have through it to open the hole and use that as the grommet.
I've also used a piece of 1/2" OD auto fuel line as a grommet.

 

[heimannm]

Latest addition, check out the Homelite thread for the full story on Higby Company and all the goodies I've brought home already. After the local Historical Society declined to take all of the saws set aside for them, the widow sent this one home with me.




It is missing a lot of carburetor parts but I am hoping I can scrounge what I need from other saws and such in the attic. This will ultimately go in the "John Higby" section in my museum when it is completed.

If you haven't seen the museum thread, look for the Vintage Chainsaw Museum for the rest of that story.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

According to Mike Acres the Danarm 55 is "Virtually identical to the McCulloch 1-10"...not so but since there is no Danarm thread I post it here.



How about the XM40, not a real McCulloch as I believe this was from the early Husqvarna ownership days.



Since I took those photos I have acquired a very nice clutch cover with the decal in great shape to make this saw look good.

Mark

 

[fossil]

Quote by Charles Caleb Colton: “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.”