T.Roller
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10-4The four shoe clutch has two threaded holes you can use a puller
10-4The four shoe clutch has two threaded holes you can use a puller
I won't set a price on any saw because I'm a noted tight wad .Power wise if it's tuned right that 700 should walk away from an 041 .Pro mac 700 with original owners manual running condition. What’s a fair price and what can I expect from it power wise? For comparison let’s use my 041 super.
I have pulled the clutch on an sp125 by loosening the nut and holding the drum and saw in my hand and lightly tapping the crank end, it cam free surprising easy, but the sp125 3 shoe clutch and has bolt on counterweights. A three arm puller would be the only other way?? Or dismantling the clutch to get the two or thre of the thread bosses? The cp125 usually had 4 shoe clutch’s and two threaded holes for a puller, but welded counterweight so tapping the end may not be advisable, plus you can use a puller. And on the flywheel I have tried a puller but it is a bear, now(could be wrong) lossen nut but leave it on crank then I get a long rod,(or old round file) and use the hole in the bottom of the inner flywheel cover and tap the flywheel off from clutch side, (the flywheel has a notch in it)it works effortlesslyFor the life of me I can't remember how I pulled the clutch on the SP 125 .I know I didn't thump the crankshaft with a BFH .What I had a time with was the flywheel which,believe it or now was tapped for #12 -24 screws .Try and find those long enough to mount a bar puller .Stand better chance of finding a needle in a hay stack ,as if you could even find a hay stack .I either tapped them out for 1/4" - 20 or 5/16" -18
My money is on the 700 as mine would have kicked my buddies 41 supers behind pretty soundly. This, even with a 28" bar. The 700 has way more torque than a 10mm 044, so a 41 super should not stand a chance.If he still has it I think I’ll buy it, then I can run against my 041 super and see what happens I guess
10-4 thank you for the great info.I have pulled the clutch on an sp125 by loosening the nut and holding the drum and saw in my hand and lightly tapping the crank end, it cam free surprising easy, but the sp125 3 shoe clutch and has bolt on counterweights. A three arm puller would be the only other way?? Or dismantling the clutch to get the two or thre of the thread bosses? The cp125 usually had 4 shoe clutch’s and two threaded holes for a puller, but welded counterweight so tapping the end may not be advisable, plus you can use a puller. And on the flywheel I have tried a puller but it is a bear, now(could be wrong) lossen nut but leave it on crank then I get a long rod,(or old round file) and use the hole in the bottom of the inner flywheel cover and tap the flywheel off from clutch side, (the flywheel has a notch in it)it works effortlessly
Lee, would you recommend rewelding any 125/101 crank that has weld on counterweights?
Thanks Lee, just to clarify would you recommend welding a new crank for safety? I have a few welded counterweight cranks, used and in good shape, I thought about tig welding the bottom ark and whatever is easy for peace of mind, but wasn’t sure if there would be any negative possibles? Like vibration or distortion? How much do you weld when you do them?I have with success.
Bummer! Most of the pm700s in my are are $300+ and 82cc mac’s are in the $500!!!! And most people are asking $900-1200 for 125cc!!Missed out on the 700, also on a group of three saws for 100$ there was a mac 15, a husky L65 and a small Allis charmers that appeared to be a poulan. Also missed a husky practica 065 for 30$. Wasn’t my day I guess