The MS261 Muffler

[fordf150]

@Mastermind

just curious, why you don't stamp out your own deflectors or buy rough stamped deflectors from someone. Seems to me it would save allot of time vs marking out and hand bending a deflector.


these are the ones i stamp out for use in the shop then just trim to suit the saw they are going on, lots of room to modify them to fit the different mufflers and exhaust outlet locations. I attach them the same as you....nutserts.

 

[blsnelling]

Thanks Randy.

 

[Mastermind]

@Mastermind

just curious, why you don't stamp out your own deflectors or buy rough stamped deflectors from someone. Seems to me it would save allot of time vs marking out and hand bending a deflector.


these are the ones i stamp out for use in the shop then just trim to suit the saw they are going on, lots of room to modify them to fit the different mufflers and exhaust outlet locations. I attach them the same as you....nutserts.

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I sorta like the way the bent ones look. Crisp corners and all.

 

[RI Chevy]

Signature Mastermind product! [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Cigmaker]

I sorta like the way the bent ones look. Crisp corners and all.

Yeah I like the way mine look thank ya.

 

[Brush Ape]

Do you mind sharing the nuts...

Yeah here you go knock yourself out...

 

[Tor R]

I start with 24ga sheet steel.

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The 288 deflector is out of place here.

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I use a little vice in another small vice to bend the metal up in.

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Flattening it some after cutting it out.

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First bend.

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Second bend.....

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Now the other side.

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Test fit.

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Rivet nuts and a nice sized hole.

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Ready to install......

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And done.

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as always your work is top notch Randy.
You gave me some ideas with this way to make a deflector for my Husky 242's

 

[Cigmaker]

as always your work is top notch Randy.
You gave me some ideas with this way to make a deflector for my Husky 242's

I'm sure you can do it WAY faster though.

 

[Tor R]

I'm sure you can do it WAY faster though.

hehe, I see what you say, I'm the slowest builder here

 

[Bilge Rat]

Doing sheet metal work is rewarding when done right.

Custom handmade part. Nice work as usual.

What i don't see in the pics, no bandaids, cuts, or blood.
How do you work sheet metal without those?

 

[CR888]

The way Randy does these is much better than the 'shark gill' way of cutting slots and crimping them. When you turn the saw on its side hot gas gets your hand. Also once water got in my gill style ms261 muffler and it sounded real funky when running, there was a high pitch squeal from the engine ....I pulled the cylinder and let everything dry out and all was good. The rivet screws, deflector & screen is the way forward on a worksaw.

 

[Tor R]

@Mastermind , the spark arrestor you use, what micron is it?

 

[Mastermind]

@Mastermind , the spark arrestor you use, what micron is it?

Actually, I use a more open stainless steel screen. It's not a spark screen.

 

[Tor R]

Actually, I use a more open stainless steel screen. It's not a spark screen.

yup, I thought you used stainless steel screen, when they produce them there is an industrial standard they follow, if I understood it correct its sized in micron (the distance between the threads).
I dont know if you know the micron on the stainless steel screen you use (lol, so people like me can buy the correct screen)

 

[Mastermind]

yup, I thought you used stainless steel screen, when they produce them there is an industrial standard they follow, if I understood it correct its sized in micron (the distance between the threads).
I dont know if you know the micron on the stainless steel screen you use (lol, so people like me can buy the correct screen)

I'll have to find the specs on it Tor. I think it is 12 x 12 mesh. Which means 12 wires per inch.

 

[PA Dan]

hehe, I see what you say, I'm the slowest builder here

I don't think so buddy![emoji23]

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Thanks for a super cool thread! I have/had several of these and they are really nice. You are a tinsmith!
The thin flange rivnuts sure keeps it nice and tidy.

If you want to play, buy a kit. I have been piecing my kit together and it aint' very economical...I only have US thread stuff.

 

[PA Dan]

yup, I thought you used stainless steel screen, when they produce them there is an industrial standard they follow, if I understood it correct its sized in micron (the distance between the threads).
I dont know if you know the micron on the stainless steel screen you use (lol, so people like me can buy the correct screen)

Hi Tor here is the screen I found and bought after Randy told me about it. I have bought from this seller a couple times now. Not sure if he will ship to Norway. If he won't I'll get it and ship to you if you want.
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/263105112675

 

[Bluefish]

Very crafty, and generous to share the idea also...
Great thread!

Russ

 

[Tor R]

I'll have to find the specs on it Tor. I think it is 12 x 12 mesh. Which means 12 wires per inch.

Thanks Randy, I had to read a bit tonight about the US mesh, not sure if I understood what I read though

Hi Tor here is the screen I found and bought after Randy told me about it. I have bought from this seller a couple times now. Not sure if he will ship to Norway. If he won't I'll get it and ship to you if you want.
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/263105112675

thanks for the offer Dan, I'll check around a bit in Norway, stuff like this is probleby sold in kitchen & plumber stores