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MG porting

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Flywheel question. I am building an 066, it is a total restoration (powdered the case, new tank etc.). It is a short case but is has a big end crank bearing. I was looking on the 064/066 thread that @Definitive Dave made about coils, flywheels and such.

It had listed that the 1122 400 1214 was for a big end bearing. I bought a 1122 400 1209/1214 and it's too small. Is there a flywheel that has only one set of numbers on it, (1122 400 1214)?

Or do I need to just go with a 660 poly flywheel?
If it has the bigger flywheel end crankshaft then you need to get a poly flywheel or a after market flywheel.
 

MG porting

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jacob j.

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Ok gotcha I just wasn't sure on that. I figured that I may have to go with a poly flywheel. I think the reason that it doesn't have the right crank in it because I was told that this was a former JMSSAW.

I got a non-decomp jug for free, it had some transfer on it and I was able to clean it up. Checked the squish to see if I could do a base gasket delete. Well it came in at .010" so I had to add a base gasket and if I remember correctly it took it up to .018?

018" is about as tight as I would run it. I have an aftermarket flywheel I could send your way that would fit that crank, until you can source a poly.
 

blacksmith

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018" is about as tight as I would run it. I have an aftermarket flywheel I could send your way that would fit that crank, until you can source a poly.

Thank you for your offer I have an aftermarket one that was on it when I bought it, I just wanted to make sure that everything was updated and OEM. I can get by with the one that I have till I scrounge up enough cash to get an OEM one.
 

blacksmith

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Looking for some opinions on this option.

I have a 1122 400 1209/1214 flywheel that the bore is too small. I have a friend that is a good machinist and has all the necessary tools.

Open up the original OEM flywheel to fit my saw.

Let's hear it. Stupid idea or no?
 
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K Mueller

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Looking for some opinions on this option.

I have a 1122 400 1209/1214 flywheel that the bore is too small. I have a friend that is a god machinist and has all the necessary tools.

Open up the original OEM flywheel to fit my saw.

Let's hear it. Stupid idea or no?

I vote find a poly flywheel
 

huskyboy

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Funny I've never thought of putting ether one on a scale.:BangHead:
Lol if you thought the saws themselves then no, meant just the flywheels. I think a lighter flywheel seems peppier/revs quicker and a heavier one seems to help torque with a big bar. At least this is what I found with other saws.
 

MG porting

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Lol if you thought the saws themselves then no, meant just the flywheels. I think a lighter flywheel seems peppier/revs quicker and a heavier one seems to help torque with a big bar. At least this is what I found with other saws.
Yep there snappy with the poly but with the metal flywheel they carry the torque better underload with the bigger bars it's all in what you're looking for me I prefer torque but every one has there own thing.:beer-toast1:
 

Deets066

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Looking for some opinions on this option.

I have a 1122 400 1209/1214 flywheel that the bore is too small. I have a friend that is a good machinist and has all the necessary tools.

Open up the original OEM flywheel to fit my saw.

Let's hear it. Stupid idea or no?
Poly flywheel can’t be expensive
 

jacob j.

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I thought I'd show you guys this - I bought this parts saw from a member here, it's an original 066. It's vintage circa late '93/early '94. The case has never been cracked open.

Over the years I've mentioned that Stihl used sealed bearings from the factory for a short time - here's the pudding:

 

huskyboy

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I thought I'd show you guys this - I bought this parts saw from a member here, it's an original 066. It's vintage circa late '93/early '94. The case has never been cracked open.

Over the years I've mentioned that Stihl used sealed bearings from the factory for a short time - here's the pudding:

I wonder why they did that? Seems contradictory, probably why they stopped doing it?
 

huskyboy

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Shouldn’t be any different than any other sealed bearing
In a chainsaw, it seems like you’d want the crankcase side of the bearings to be exposed to fuel/oil mix to get lubrication under hard loads running hot. Seems like they would be getting less with that side closed off?
 
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