- Local time
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- User ID
- 1377
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2016
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- Location
- Northwoods of Wisconsin
What a wonderful reply. Thank you very much. I couldn't agree more on Steve, kind of guy he is. Also the kind of work he does. Man that seasoned wood I'm sure is quite the test I'm impressed. Yes square is number 1 in my opinion. I thinking what I'm running is close or a strong second. Round filed square chain, with rakers manicured and teeth. With the new Stihl all in one kind of file. Biggest thing I notice on square vs round, when you are cornering up, squaring up, especially in a Humboldt undercut, that round does not like to hold and bite and follow your cut up to the corners. Square ground full skip imo is the best.@Normzilla I can only second what you said about dealing with Steve @Stump Shot.
You live in a very nice region of California, that reminds me of my younger days when I worked for the Forest Service, stationed up north for the fire season, but that was a long time ago when I was much younger and nimbler.
Everyone that will be dealing with Steve will get their saw fully assembled and ready to go, just gas up and open that throttle. Me, I just had some very weird shipping requirements to my neck of the woods, Steve was able to work with me on that, WHICH I VERY GREATLY APPRECIATE.
I had two 22 to 25 inch logs ready to go for this saw, very ugly and knotty wood, just what I needed to put this saw through its paces.
Two of the hardest species in my neck of the woods:
European Ash - Fraximus Excelsior - 5 year dry, very knotty, healthy no ants or rotting, around 25"
European Hornbean - Carpinus Betulus - 7 year dry, very knotty, healthy, no rotting, 22"
Originally debated about the round vs square cut, decided on the square cut.
Square cut had an aggressive top plate and an aggressive top plate undercut for the hard wood.
Rakers were shaved below the progressive Husky depth gauge, if you were to rock it side to side, the raker would not catch the gauge.
This saw for its size put a big smile on my face: 66dl chain, I could not slow her down no matter how much I tried. The more we pressed, the more it wanted to go.
Was hoping that two other factors would be in my favor:
1. Autotune holding the saw back during break in mode. (did not help me)
2. Saw being tuned richer due for the break in period until the rings seated in. (did not help me)
With two tanks through the saw, all I can say with a big smile, this was one very nice therapy session!
In the end, my expectations from this build were far exceeded with what I initially thought was possible.
Looking forward to getting past the break in stage, and have the saw at full potential.
You too can get your angry Wisconsin formula in your saw if you ask nicely.
@Normzilla you can see that here, a reputable builder like @Mastermind will refer you to another reputable builder like @Stump Shot, unlike the wild wild internet that is full of scammers and snake oils salesmen.
Speaking of, the limiters on the carburetor of the 390 are fairly robust and I also leave them in as full adjustment can be achieved with a Husqvarna/Poulan spline tool which I include with the saw if need be.
If that is not great customer service, then ...
Steve also included a TORX driver that I thought I would never need to use for my assembly, until I went to grab my TORX set in the same location and it was not there. Come to find out, some JOKER decided to borrow it without telling me and without returning it back to its location.
Steve's customer service put a very big smile on my face as I could proceed with the task at hand.
Looking good @Stump ShotThis here cut report is on an oldie but a goodie 1100cd that was saved with a new Duke's Piston and cinder kit from @Duke Thieroff
What with the old cylinder having the plating wear out of the bottom, which is a common problem with the 2100 cylinders, it's darn nice to have a quality substitute available. upon inspection the cylinder is a good looking specimen with nice modern looking ports with crisp clean lines to the edges and very smooth casting in the port areas. Next the plating does not lap into the port so it has got to be good not to peel, this may be good news for porting, possibly. The bore has been honed to size and upon doing the Jimmy drop test I have to say it was the best fit I've ever seen, a nice even float was had and so concentrically speaking it's very soundly made. Speaking of made it's also apparent it wasn't made in a mud hut or out in a sand lot with an old dude's feet, these folks do this for a living.
Anywhoo.... back to the cut reporting, this saw ran very well, running rich at just under 12,000 rpm is like what a ported one does. I wanted to keep it to like 10,500 or so, that didn't happen. The only thing touched on the cylinder was the exhaust port was given a light sand and polish, that's it. It was also installed with a Duke's base gasket. I did not try to tighten the squish at all. The saw does have an open side outlet muffler and a ever so slight timing advance as well as the governor deleted. Nothing crazy for mods. Chain is a full comp round ground Stihl brand chisel tooth and an eight pin sprocket.
The idle sound comes close to the original but the performance is much better in my observation. This is one heck of an option to get these old saws up and going again, only time will tell just how they hold up as well as I give them credit to.
You all can be the judge, again running rich, it can be leaned some after it breaks in.
I wouldn't be surprised if a 9 or 10 tooth sprocket could be deployed for some even speedier cutting.
This cut report will be hard to top, what when you have a fully woods ported 395xp blistering through some wood, what more fun can a fella have at such little cost?