Stihl MS661C will not idle, help needed

[markds2]

I done some research:

 

[markds2]

@huskihl , was the kit with the coil, solenoid and filter? 1144 007 1801?

It looks like I can't use the white solenoid with the 4701A coil...

 

[huskihl]

@huskihl , was the kit with the coil, solenoid and filter? 1144 007 1801?

It looks like I can't use the white solenoid with the 4701A coil...

I did it on a 261, which was a different part number I believe. It’s been said that it wouldn’t work, but it did for a few of us that tried it. I can’t say with any certainty that it will work with a 661 as I haven’t tried it

 

[markds2]

I did it on a 261, which was a different part number I believe. It’s been said that it wouldn’t work, but it did for a few of us that tried it. I can’t say with any certainty that it will work with a 661 as I haven’t tried it

Thanks Kevin.
@angelo c @sawmikaze @Redbull661 @redlight066 can any of you say for certain that the white solenoid will work where a black one has been taken out? On a 661C with a 4701A coil...

 

[angelo c]

Thanks Kevin.
@angelo c @sawmikaze @Redbull661 @redlight066 can any of you say for certain that the white solenoid will work where a black one has been taken out? On a 661C with a 4701A coil...

work(S) for me...every time so far. i just do both resets...cause i cant remember which ONE is correct.... so do em both.

 

[markds2]

work(S) for me...every time so far. i just do both resets...cause i cant remember which ONE is correct.... so do em both.

Thanks Angelo, that is exactly what I wanted to hear. The black solenoid is the same price as the white here in NZ and both the 1140 007 1802 (Solenoid and filter) kit and the 1144 007 1801 (Coil, solenoid and filter) upgrade kits are out of stock with Stihl NZ at the moment.

 

[sawmikaze]

Thanks Kevin.
@angelo c @sawmikaze @Redbull661 @redlight066 can any of you say for certain that the white solenoid will work where a black one has been taken out? On a 661C with a 4701A coil...

It works. Buy the kit that includes the orange filter with the solenoid.

Do the old reset with the coil you have, I don't feel like typing it...look in Julian's thread.

Or..if you end up with the kit with the V3 coil look up the procedure on that, it's different. And it runs a little richer with that coil. Better for a worksaw.

 

[markds2]

It works. Buy the kit that includes the orange filter with the solenoid.

Do the old reset with the coil you have, I don't feel like typing it...look in Julian's thread.

Or..if you end up with the kit with the V3 coil look up the procedure on that, it's different. And it runs a little richer with that coil. Better for a worksaw.

Thanks Ryan, appreciate your input. Unfortunately neither kit is available at the moment - out of stock here in NZ.

Stuck with buying the white solenoid and Orange filter individually...

 

[sawmikaze]

Thanks Ryan, appreciate your input. Unfortunately neither kit is available at the moment - out of stock here in NZ.

Stuck with buying the white solenoid and Orange filter individually...

That blows. But it should take care of your problem, I have 3 or 4 of those kits on my bench. They cure 99% of my mtron problems.

 

[drf256]

I’d Vac test the saw as well. That’s my first step with any MT saw not running right.

The damn MT can compensate for so many things it makes it difficult to diagnose stuff.

It’s usually not the MT, but when it is it’s that damn black solenoid 99% of the time. You can swap one in from a runner for the time being and see if it remedies the issue. I found out the hard way that even the white solenoids aren’t shock proof. I pounded the main nozzle out of my 462 carb without removing the white solenoid and voilá, saw wouldn’t idle and flooded. Popped a new one in and no issues.

 

[markds2]

I certainly appreciate everyone's help thank you. Yours too Doc @drf256 I can totally understand the Mtronic compensating for an extreme air leak as that is exactly what this saw did for the previous owner, on initial tear down I had found the clutch side main seal looked like this:

The twit thought it was a carby issue and had fiddled extensively, not only had he fiddled with the Mtronic carb he eventually cut the red and black wires off, joined them using a crimp, discarded the switch/trigger unit and tried a WJ69 off an 660, which was never going to work! Luckily the Mtronic carb was still with the saw when it came (minus the trigger/switch unit and wires which was $140nz).When I pulled the carb last night to change out the solenoid, I looked very closely at this little stop:

And found that he had wound it right out so the throttle was not even touching it in the closed position (obviously to try and stop the saw racing at idle) even though the Stihl workshop manual specifically says NOT to adjust it (in fact it's completely hidden by the trigger unit when its screwed in place). Luckily I found a small mark on it where the throttle had been hitting it and managed to adjust it back to original. I went ahead and replaced the solenoid, but still don't know whether it was the lack of throttle at idle or the solenoid that was causing the problem. Either way, the saw now runs perfectly, idles nicely and does everything it should!

 

[markds2]

Probably the question I should be asking is why was the seal like that? It had completely come out of its pocket in the main bearing, and had torn itself apart on the circlip and by rubbing against the oil pump. Certainly unusual on such a new saw.

 

[drf256]

Had same issue with 462 I did. Forgot to snap the throttle rod back in. The saw would race but them eventually compensate. The throttle lever on the carb was around .125” from the closed stop.