Stihl 462 rebuild

[Stump Shot]

If you don’t disassemble it, tapping on either race without tapping them both at the same time is hard on the bearing. And I don’t know of a way to tap on them both at the same time.

...and if the next bearing needs pushed along with will make it that much harder besides the distinct possibility of tweaking the crank.

 

[farminkarman]

I’d like to see this done (I’m a visual learner). You could you make a video of this next time you do one?

Do you have a set of case tools to help pull the crank through the bearings? I need to assemble a 440 bottom end in the next week or so and could make a quick video.

 

[huskihl]

I’d like to see this done (I’m a visual learner). You could you make a video of this next time you do one?

I believe he puts the flywheel bearing in the case and the clutch side bearing onto the crank and then goes from there

 

[Loony661]

Do you have a set of case tools to help pull the crank through the bearings? I need to assemble a 440 bottom end in the next week or so and could make a quick video.

No I don’t think I have a tool that pulls the crank through. I have the Stihl tool for separating the case halves.

 

[Stump Shot]

I believe he puts the flywheel bearing in the case and the clutch side bearing onto the crank and then goes from there

Actually, I put both bearings on the crank first, then drop in the fly side and then the pto side last to put it together. Once bolted a couple love taps with a smallish brass hammer relieves any side loading left in the bearing and lets it run friction free.
@tree monkey has a video of doing this job on a 288 if I'm not mistaken. The only thing I do different is I microwave the bearings instead of heating in hot oil, either one does an excellent job of not overheating the bearing in any way.

 

[Stump Shot]

Some saws don't have a stop on either side for the bearing and I use a feeler gauge for assembling them to keep clearance for the crankshaft. I measure the space between the empty mock assembled crankcase, then measure the crankshaft and subtract it from the case number and then take that number and divide by two(or in half), this is the size feeler gauge needed for whichever side you want to start with, doesn't matter.
The 266 is one that comes to mind here for an example.

 

[Stump Shot]

There's lots of ways to skin this cat, a person has to see what they have at their disposal to help the situation at the time weighed against what one should realistically get to make the job easier. As an example, for a one time job it wouldn't make a lot of dollars and sense to buy a crank puller tool when the same job can be done with a heat gun or propane/mapp torch that you already are in possession of.

 

[Gearshifter]

Before I disassemble the saw I wanted to start it to see if it would even run ( being a junk saw who knows ) it started on a few pulls let it reset the m tronic and it idled beautifully! By sure do they scream tho!

I'll post another update once it's all back together and good to go!

 

[Stump Shot]

I’d like to see this done (I’m a visual learner). You could you make a video of this next time you do one?

Well... I didn't end up with having a videographer but I did take some still shots and can give you the play by play.

Heat the case so as it smokes.



Drop the crank in, double check for the correct side before doing so.


Heat up other side of case.
I like to have the locator pins in this side to hold the gasket as it's the side in my stand.
Have said gasket at the ready along with the case bolts.



Carefully drop the fly side case on and with a soft face hammer give a few taps to get it set all the way over the pins, working fastly now, install the retaining bolts.

 

[Stump Shot]

Once the bolts are snugged up keep working fastly tap the end of the crank lightly to remove any side loading present in the bearings.


You should be able to push the crank down with your finger and it come up on it's own just from its own weight.


Trim the gasket and you are ready to proceed with the rest of the build.


With a crank that is nice and centered up.

 

[Loony661]

Thanks for sharing @Stump Shot this is good stuff.

 

[Stump Shot]

Thanks for sharing @Stump Shot this is good stuff.

I neglected to mention that I like to microwave the bearings and slide them on the crankshaft.
To do so wrap in several layers of paper towels and then wet them thoroughly under the faucet. Place on a plate and depending on wattage put on Hi for 3-4 minutes so as the paper towels are starting to dry up. The steam created heats the bearing to the perfect temp without getting too hot to cause damage and the paper towels keep the bearing shielded from making a spark and lightning show. Pretty slick trick. Just have something to finish driving it on the inner race just in case you slip up and it cools too rapidly when it meets the crankshaft and stops. Small piece of half inch pipe should do the trick. Usually just the presence of such lets it slide right on. Without it you will be doing a fire drill scramble to get one as it gets tighter and tighter.

 

[Ketchup]

Yeah! Great description and cool pictures.

 

[tree monkey]

It’s a husky but the process is the same

 

[Gearshifter]

Still waiting on a few parts to arrive. In the meantime I was wondering what m tronic version this is ?

I've taken a photo of the brake handle sticker ( only sticker on the saw ) and I see there Is M3.0 bottom right . Is that the version ?

Thanks in advance

 

[huskihl]

Still waiting on a few parts to arrive. In the meantime I was wondering what m tronic version this is ?

I've taken a photo of the brake handle sticker ( only sticker on the saw ) and I see there Is M3.0 bottom right . Is that the version ?

Thanks in advance

All mtronic 462’s are v3

 

[Gearshifter]

Saws back up and running ! Had a 25 inch bar on it cutting bluegum . Thought the 25 was abit too much and sorta struggled ... so put a 20 on and it didn't back down .

I hear people say they can run 32s on these , is that with soft wood ?

Thanks everybody that helped me get the saw running !

 

[drf256]

You have much harder wood species there than we do here.

With a ported 462, I run a 25” light with no issue. It’s the perfect size for the saw.

It has the same oiler as the 500i, so it could in theory, run a 32. It will be slow as all hell though.

It’s probably a 20” saw at best by you guys. I hear people run 90cc saws with 20” bars by you.

 

[sawmikaze]

Saws back up and running ! Had a 25 inch bar on it cutting bluegum . Thought the 25 was abit too much and sorta struggled ... so put a 20 on and it didn't back down .

I hear people say they can run 32s on these , is that with soft wood ?

Thanks everybody that helped me get the saw running !

Mine can pull a 32..but I run a 28 on this one.

Different wood you guys have.

I have one of my older ones set up with a 20".

The older ones are more speedy but don't have the ass the new ones do.

 

[whitesnake]

Mine can pull a 32..but I run a 28 on this one.

Different wood you guys have.

I have one of my older ones set up with a 20".

The older ones are more speedy but don't have the ass the new ones do.

Ported R model that’s a sweet saw. That saw is a one saw plan for most people.