Stihl 462 rebuild

[Ketchup]

Yeah. I agree with Dr Al. The PTO bearing should be installed with oiler mounted. Best practice is to split it again.

I haven’t done that many bearings, but the guy I learned from is super careful. I’m sure he would say to get a new PTO bearing and start over. Others may disagree.

 

[Loony661]

Yes oil pump must be mounted for bearing installation. If you want to try and save your bearing, just make sure you “remove” this one by pressing/pounding on the outer race only. Match up a socket that won’t interfere with the case, but that makes full contact with the outer race and it will move without damaging the internals of the bearing. That being said, fully inspect the bearing before reusing it!

 

[Stump Shot]

Yeah. I agree with Dr Al. The PTO bearing should be installed with oiler mounted. Best practice is to split it again.

I haven’t done that many bearings, but the guy I learned from is super careful. I’m sure he would say to get a new PTO bearing and start over. Others may disagree.

Yes oil pump must be mounted for bearing installation. If you want to try and save your bearing, just make sure you “remove” this one by pressing/pounding on the outer race only. Match up a socket that won’t interfere with the case, but that makes full contact with the outer race and it will move without damaging the internals of the bearing. That being said, fully inspect the bearing before reusing it!

...or, do the fly side first. Just heat case and drop in until it bottoms out, everything will be indexed perfectly, crank centered etc. every time.
This is the Husqvarna, less complicated way of doing this task and what I do with every saw including all the Stihl's that I rebuild.

 

[huskihl]

Might be able to remove the oil pump and tap the bearing in with a deep well socket

 

[huskihl]

Yes oil pump must be mounted for bearing installation. If you want to try and save your bearing, just make sure you “remove” this one by pressing/pounding on the outer race only. Match up a socket that won’t interfere with the case, but that makes full contact with the outer race and it will move without damaging the internals of the bearing. That being said, fully inspect the bearing before reusing it!

Beat me to it.



I’ll read it all next time

 

[qurotro]

The aluminum case screw is not reusable.

 

[Stump Shot]

Might be able to remove the oil pump and tap the bearing in with a deep well socket

Does Stihl make a crank puller tool like Husqvarna? This might be a help to the process.

 

[huskihl]

Does Stihl make a crank puller tool like Husqvarna? This might be a help to the process.

Not certain. All I have is the double C clamp like the Husky puller and Mattyo’s tool set

 

[huskihl]

Does Stihl make a crank puller tool like Husqvarna? This might be a help to the process.

Sorry I missed you yesterday. In the middle of a 395

 

[Stump Shot]

Sorry I missed you yesterday. In the middle of a 395

I didn't know they were that big. Lol

 

[Stump Shot]

Not certain. All I have is the double C clamp like the Husky puller and Mattyo’s tool set

I think it would most likely be faster just to take it apart and do it over right anyhow. Least ways less chance of damaging costly parts.

 

[Gearshifter]

Thanks for the help guys . When I do the case halfs I use a heat gun , can the oil pump withstand the heat if it's mounted to the case so I can drop the bearing in ?

 

[Loony661]

Thanks for the help guys . When I do the case halfs I use a heat gun , can the oil pump withstand the heat if it's mounted to the case so I can drop the bearing in ?

Yes, I actually use a handheld MAP Gas torch and an infrared thermometer. Oil pump side down of course, just heat the crankcase around the bearing surface (not the actual bored bearing surface) until the case is roughly 300 degrees and if it doesn’t fall in, it will tap in very easily. Have all your tools ready to go, and once again, only tap on the outer race for install as well.

 

[huskihl]

I didn't know they were that big. Lol

Toooshay

 

[Loony661]

...or, do the fly side first. Just heat case and drop in until it bottoms out, everything will be indexed perfectly, crank centered etc. every time.
This is the Husqvarna, less complicated way of doing this task and what I do with every saw including all the Stihl's that I rebuild.

I’d like to see this done (I’m a visual learner). You could you make a video of this next time you do one?

 

[huskihl]

If you don’t disassemble it, tapping on either race without tapping them both at the same time is hard on the bearing. And I don’t know of a way to tap on them both at the same time.

 

[Loony661]

...or, do the fly side first. Just heat case and drop in until it bottoms out, everything will be indexed perfectly, crank centered etc. every time.
This is the Husqvarna, less complicated way of doing this task and what I do with every saw including all the Stihl's that I rebuild.

Are you saying flywheel side done first, then install crank, gasket and PTO side crank case, and THEN heat/press bearing in from the outside?

 

[Gearshifter]

Thanks for the help . I feel like abit if an idiot doing all this work to find out I installed the bearing wrong

Oh well I guess it's a learning curve !

Stihl knows how to charge , a set of bearings where $80 new zealand currency and the seals where $40 for a set .

 

[Loony661]

Thanks for the help . I feel like abit if an idiot doing all this work to find out I installed the bearing wrong

Oh well I guess it's a learning curve !

Stihl knows how to charge , a set of bearings where $80 new zealand currency and the seals where $40 for a set .

But you won’t make this mistake again next time, and that is called learning. We’ve all had to learn at one time or another!

 

[Stump Shot]

I’d like to see this done (I’m a visual learner). You could you make a video of this next time you do one?

Possibly, will be doing one with Big Dan here in the future, will see if he can do some vidja taking for me,