Stihl 462 rebuild

[Gearshifter]

Hi guys this is my first post here . I've tried searching for my answer but havnt had any luck

I've got a stihl 462 top end and possibly a crankshaft that needs replaced . I got the saw dirt cheap as the piston went and demod the saw ..

What I'm wanting to know is can you put a 460 top end etc on a 462 ? What parts are interchangeable? If not are there any aftermarket parts available for these saws as I only do firewood for myself and family

Thanks in advance

Update : have pulled apart the saw. I'm no expert but everything looks good apart from piston and crankcase

Update 2 : ordered another flywheel crankcase , piston , gaskets , bearings and seals . I've put the halfs together but there's a gap between the flange

Update 3 :

Saws back up and running ! Had a 25 inch bar on it cutting bluegum . Thought the 25 was abit too much and sorta struggled ... so put a 20 on and it didn't back down .

I hear people say they can run 32s on these , is that with soft wood ?

Thanks everybody that helped me get the saw running

 

[huskihl]

No, 460 stuff won’t fit. You probably have an early 462, and the case, piston and cylinder need to match and aren’t interchangeable

 

[Loony661]

Welcome to the rabbit hole.

 

[Ketchup]

Hi guys this is my first post here . I've tried searching for my answer but havnt had any luck

I've got a stihl 462 top end and possibly a crankshaft that needs replaced . I got the saw dirt cheap as the piston went and demod the saw ..

What I'm wanting to know is can you put a 460 top end etc on a 462 ? What parts are interchangeable? If not are there any aftermarket parts available for these saws as I only do firewood for myself and family

Thanks in advance

You have a somewhat expensive project ahead. 462 doesn’t interchange with anything and there are no aftermarket parts. But you’ll have a top shelf saw when you’re done. Post up some pics of the cylinder and the crank. Those parts may be salvageable.

 

[Gearshifter]

Just been pulling it apart , havnt taken Any photos yet, I'll get some soon. Saw looks like it's had a hard life.

Everything looks good except the piston and crankcase on the flywheel side .. looks like the piston cracked and hit that thing that sticks up on the intake side and shattered the piston and damaged the flywheel side notch at the top of the crankcase

 

[Gearshifter]

You have a somewhat expensive project ahead. 462 doesn’t interchange with anything and there are no aftermarket parts. But you’ll have a top shelf saw when you’re done. Post up some pics of the cylinder and the crank. Those parts may be salvageable.

What about the clutch assembly ? Would a 044/046 clutch fit ?

 

[Gearshifter]

Have updated post with pictures

 

[huskihl]

Is there a hole blown through the case anywhere where chunks of the skirt went through?

 

[huskihl]

I was working on a 462 for myself tonight and I almost cut that flange out of there. Seems to do more damage than good. They say it’s to direct some charge up to cool the wrist pin bearing, but new Husky motors are fed the same way and they don’t seem to have wrist pin bearing issues.

If it were mine, and there was no other damage to the bottom of the cases or to the bearings, I would clean up the remnants of the flange with a die grinder and run it. Just for science.

On your exhaust port where a chunk of metal hit the roof, you need to make certain that nothing is proud sticking into the bore there. Diamond burr or maybe sandpaper.

 

[Gearshifter]

Is there a hole blown through the case anywhere where chunks of the skirt went through?

Cant see anything , I'm still yet to split the case . I've got a case splitter from holzfforma but it won't fit due to that top flange .

I was thinking about putting the nut on the flywheel side crank and hitting it with a rubber hammer while supporting the case to pop it out .

Any other tips ?

 

[Ketchup]

I was working on a 462 for myself tonight and I almost cut that flange out of there. Seems to do more damage than good. They say it’s to direct some charge up to cool the wrist pin bearing, but new Husky motors are fed the same way and they don’t seem to have wrist pin bearing issues.

If it were mine, and there was no other damage to the bottom of the cases or to the bearings, I would clean up the remnants of the flange with a die grinder and run it. Just for science.

On your exhaust port where a chunk of metal hit the roof, you need to make certain that nothing is proud sticking into the bore there. Diamond burr or maybe sandpaper.

I agree. Clean up the ugly bits and run it. New piston and some dremel work may be all you need.

BUT YOUR BEARINGS MAY BE COMPROMISED. Check that first and carefully. The crank should roll over perfectly smooth without any radial play or sticky spots. Shrapnel often goes into the bearings. Sometimes even through them and into the seals. The lower con rod bearing can also be damaged. Check that for smooth rollover as well. Look for nicks in the port edges and marks in the squish band that look like they were made by a spherical or needle bearing. If your bearings are shot, you won’t get far after reassembly. Hopefully you’re good, but check carefully.

And I misspoke. There are aftermarket pistons for 462. But price out OEM vs aftermarket. They may not be that different. If you go aftermarket do some homework. Some brands are okay, some are trash.

 

[huskihl]

I’d flush it out with mineral spirits in the parts washer. Gas, diesel, hot soapy water…whatever. Make sure you dry it and oil the bearings right afterwards. But make sure they roll perfectly smooth. No roughness at all

 

[huskihl]

Cant see anything , I'm still yet to split the case . I've got a case splitter from holzfforma but it won't fit due to that top flange .

I was thinking about putting the nut on the flywheel side crank and hitting it with a rubber hammer while supporting the case to pop it out .

Any other tips ?

I know it’s been done before but I can’t recommend doing that. Too many cranks end up bent. Flush it all out first and see how it feels

 

[whitesnake]

I know it’s been done before but I can’t recommend doing that. Too many cranks end up bent. Flush it all out first and see how it feels

I agree…and if all is well grind the case, clean the cylinder up, new piston and run it. The price was right. Keep it that way. Cleaned up and back together with a steady diet of good fuel and oil she may very well run a long time.

 

[Gearshifter]

I agree…and if all is well grind the case, clean the cylinder up, new piston and run it. The price was right. Keep it that way. Cleaned up and back together with a steady diet of good fuel and oil she may very well run a long time.

Ended up using heat to tap the fly wheel side out then used the splitter on the p.t.o side.

Case on the p.t.o side looks really good! Flywheel bearing was good , clutch side was shot .

Think I'll order a new set of seals and bearings along with the other bits and bobs it needs .

 

[drf256]

I think you can rehab that saw. It may not run just as well as before, but it would run.

Like Kev said, you gotta bevel that exhaust roof.

Looks like it caught a ring to me, but the slug is also cracked in the typical place for the GEN1 462’s.

 

[Gearshifter]

I've got the parts to put it back together , ended up buying another crankcase half , gaskets , piston , bearings and seals .

I've put the case halfs together and there's a gap where the flange is .. do I need to try and get them closer together or will it be ok ?

 

[Ketchup]

I've got the parts to put it back together , ended up buying another crankcase half , gaskets , piston , bearings and seals .

I've put the case halfs together and there's a gap where the flange is .. do I need to try and get them closer together or will it be ok ?

There will be a gap there because the gasket isn’t shaped to fill it. That’s normal.

Your gap looks wider at the top than the bottom. I might try loosening and retightening the case bolts to see if it will even out. In the end, as long as the gasket is properly sealed and the cylinder mounts flush, you’re good.

 

[Gearshifter]

Same gap , piston still goes around fine.

Another update : went to put the oil pump , clutch etc on ( ordered an aftermarket clutch kit as it didn't have one ) but when I rotate the drum around it catches on the oil pump.

I've noticed the oil pump doesn't sit flush with the case , looks like the bearing is sticking out to far . When I put the bearings in I made sure it was flush with the inside ... could it of moved out when I tighten up the crankcase ?

Aside from that can anyone help me as to why the drum would hit ? Could I grind the bottom of the drum so it doesn't? Does it matter if the bearing is sticking out?

Also there's a circlip that goes on the crankshaft between the seal and oiler , but I guess because the bearing is sticking out a tad to far it won't go on .

Should I heat up the outside of the case and try tapping the bearing in abit ? I really want to avoid taking the entire saw apart just for 1 bearing

Thanks in advance !

 

[drf256]

You needed to keep the oil pump on to gage the depth of the bearing, I think you figured that out. You have to get that depth correct or everything else will be off.

Those appear to be a non matched set of cases. I guess the PTO side is the original.

You probably have to disassemble. The PTO bearing has a plastic cage that likes to melt. Whenever I knock one out of an old case using heat, the cage always melts. You can disassemble the bearing, which is what I do if it’s a new bearing and it can be reused, but the cage comes out from the inside.

Guess you could try tapping the bearing in from the outside, and then tap the crank back and forth to remove side loading.

I thing a short cut won’t work here. Sorry.