Stihl 066 Red Light

[Brewz]

Cleaned everything up and it is in tip top condition under about a kilo of compressed oil and sawdust.

Now, something I was thinking about while cleaning it, if I do a big fat muffler mod to get more air flowing, will running the limited coil make it difficult to get it to 4 stroke properly?

On the other saws I have done up, they tuned at higher revs than when stock.

Will the limited cool leave me running over rich all the time?

 

[Moparmyway]

Tune it in the wood and you won't have to worry about it

 

[Brewz]

A few pictures for the hell of it

1 x fully functional red light coil:



Unlimited coil on left
Red Light on right



Its a nothing part but I have not yet found a chain brake spring with the original tube on it in this condition

 

[Brewz]

The Cylinder looks like it just came out of a box. It looks new!

I would like to know if anyone knows what the marking on the cylinder base mean.







It had a paper style gasket under the cylinder but has hex head blots holding it down so it has been taken off at some stage.
The piston is OEM (the word "STIHL" inside the piston gave that away) is also in great condition, like new in fact.
This is the exhaust side:

 

[Brewz]

I have one of those metal Hyway gaskets but I am not sure if I want to use it.
I bolted on the jug with no gasket and it hit the top
The metal Hyway gasket gave me 0.022 - 0.023 squish.

To keep it traditional, and because I dont trust the metal gasket, I am going to get some high temp paper gasket material and make my own.

Also plan to smooth out and round off the edges in the lowers and clean up the small bur on the top of the uppers or would this be committing a sin? (pending feedback on the cylinder)

 

[Deets066]

You have yourself a nice KS jug. Barely take off the lip on the lowers and I would leave the uppers

 

[Brewz]

KS are the good ones yes?
I am thinking it is something special so I take extra care with it.

I am almost reluctant to use it at all, but what good is in on the shelf?

 

[Deets066]

Use it, be a damn shame to leave it sit

 

[Brewz]

Ever so carefully, I took to the jug with my dremel.
I rounded out the intake casting focusing on smooth lines to encourage flow with the minimal amount of metal removed. Top and bottom heights were not altered.
I removed the sharp edged lips around the lowers and smoothed out all the little casting bumps. Uppers were left alone as suggested.
I opened out the exhaust mouth a bit and widened the exhaust port about a mm or 2 on either side. Top and bottom heights were not altered.
Exhaust port was filed smooth, sanded then polished up roughly with some 600 grit.







Bolted it together to a point where I could start it.
I replaced the WJ-35 carb that was on it with a WJ-67 which had a larger venturi. Happy to take some advice on if that was a good move or not.
Checked compression and it pulled just under 160psi with the squish set at 0.022.

Put in a plug, and it was running in 5 pulls

Now I need to do some repairs to a bit of damage on the flywheel cover and mod the muffler

 

[Brewz]

Oh..... and the most important bit......

THE RED LIGHT STILL WORKS

 

[Brewz]

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement sticker for what was the "DIGITAL" sticker on the filter cover?

 

[Deets066]

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement sticker for what was the "DIGITAL" sticker on the filter cover?

View attachment 16017

I love those digital stickers, never seen one on an 066, very nice work on the cylinder. I would really like to know what numbers it has. Do you know anything about degree wheels?

 

[Welder56]

The Cylinder looks like it just came out of a box. It looks new!

I would like to know if anyone knows what the marking on the cylinder base mean.

View attachment 15856

View attachment 15854

View attachment 15855

It had a paper style gasket under the cylinder but has hex head blots holding it down so it has been taken off at some stage.
The piston is OEM (the word "STIHL" inside the piston gave that away) is also in great condition, like new in fact.
This is the exhaust side:

View attachment 15857

Not 100% sure but I'm pretty sure the KS jugs show what year it was made. It says " 05" and "91". I believe it's 5th month in 1991. I've compared a few ks jugs and they all seem to be the same way.

Could be completely wrong though. Just an observation I've noticed

 

[Brewz]

Do you know anything about degree wheels?

Yeah I have one but I made it to fit on my 026 with threaded bar and it won't fit on the 066

I need to track down a drill chuck

 

[Deets066]

Yeah I have one but I made it to fit on my 026 with threaded bar and it won't fit on the 066

I need to track down a drill chuck

Sweet, I'd bet you got some pretty good factory numbers

 

[Brewz]

I have ordered a cheap drill chuck from eBay so I can get my degree wheel up and running for all saws.

I finnished the red light off today.

I read somewhere on AS that the digital coils need to be cranked faster to produce a spark to start them and also the gap from coil to flywheel should be set between .006 to .008.
My business card measured .013 so I doubled over a piece of paper to get .008 and reset the coil gap.

Cleaned up the muffler and baked on some 1000*c black paint.
Rear and front covers got their outlets size doubled and lower restriction screens made.

Port matched the back of the muffler and the gasket after the baffle was removed completly.

Stupid baffle!

Fitted up a Stihl 25" bar wearing Stihl full chisel 404 chain.
It is now ready to be tuned and do some work.

If you don't get the start pull right, it will tear your fingers off your hand.
It needs to be brought to TDC and then yanked hard!

Holding the rear handle between the legs to start would only be advisable for females!

 

[Deets066]

I have ordered a cheap drill chuck from eBay so I can get my degree wheel up and running for all saws.

I finnished the red light off today.

I read somewhere on AS that the digital coils need to be cranked faster to produce a spark to start them and also the gap from coil to flywheel should be set between .006 to .008.
My business card measured .013 so I doubled over a piece of paper to get .008 and reset the coil gap.

Cleaned up the muffler and baked on some 1000*c black paint.
Rear and front covers got their outlets size doubled and lower restriction screens made.

Port matched the back of the muffler and the gasket after the baffle was removed completly.

Stupid baffle!

Fitted up a Stihl 25" bar wearing Stihl full chisel 404 chain.
It is now ready to be tuned and do some work.

If you don't get the start pull right, it will tear your fingers off your hand.
It needs to be brought to TDC and then yanked hard!

Holding the rear handle between the legs to start would only be advisable for females!

View attachment 16195

View attachment 16196

View attachment 16197

Damn that's a nice red light

I'm jealous

 

[Brewz]

Thanks mate, and thanks for the help along the way.

I am really happy with it

I changed my mind on the bar and bolted on my GB pro top 20" 3/8 bar and an 8 pin sprocket.

It has an identical muffler mod as my 066 magnum but sound fatter and meaner at idle. It sounds like a bloody Harley.

I think it needs new clutch springs cause the chain get a spin up at 2800 to 2900 rpm and I usually tune idle to about 2700 rpm.

Question:
@Deets066 @jmssaws @Definitive Dave or anyone else who might know.

Was it worth swapping out the Wj35 carb that was on the saw for the newer WJ67 ?

 

[Brewz]

Just replaced the clutch springs with new ones I bought "just in case" and spinning chain issue is fixed.

I am now itching to run it in some timber and it's only Tuesday, but there is a 4 day weekend coming forward Easter

 

[Deets066]

Thanks mate, and thanks for the help along the way.

I am really happy with it

I changed my mind on the bar and bolted on my GB pro top 20" 3/8 bar and an 8 pin sprocket.

It has an identical muffler mod as my 066 magnum but sound fatter and meaner at idle. It sounds like a bloody Harley.

I think it needs new clutch springs cause the chain get a spin up at 2800 to 2900 rpm and I usually tune idle to about 2700 rpm.

Question:
@Deets066 @jmssaws @Definitive Dave or anyone else who might know.

Was it worth swapping out the Wj35 carb that was on the saw for the newer WJ67 ?

Not sure if there is much difference between those carbs