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They are ok if you are going to grind. Not fun if you have to file.Are grinder hardened/burned/blued cutters a bad thing?
They are ok if you are going to grind. Not fun if you have to file.Are grinder hardened/burned/blued cutters a bad thing?
Are grinder hardened/burned/blued cutters a bad thing?
What he said!They are ok if you are going to grind. Not fun if you have to file.
That was kind of my point. If you are using a grinder, it doesn't matter.They are ok if you are going to grind. Not fun if you have to file.
It doesDoesn't a blued cutter edge chip easier due to being more brittle?
Vallorbe files are the best I've ever found. I've used nearly every brand on the market. Husky intensive cut come close.So, I'm a Tool & Die Maker, retired with 48 years of experience. Years ago I started using Nicholson Chainsaw files for a reason.
Recently I was reading a thread on here about files, and a few of you said that you use Pferd. What the heck, I bought a half-dozen and gave them a try. I didn't even get half of my chain sharpened until the file was junk. As I tossed a brand new Pferd in the trash, I remembered why I have been using Nicholson for so many years.
I believe you’re correct with bar or solid steel stock, that annealing happens when cooled slowly, hardening happens when cooled quickly. But with a chain, the sharpened edge is so thin that air quenching cools it too quickly and makes the edge hard and brittle. Too hard to file but so brittle that the edge breaks off early while cuttingI know for certain that if you heat treated steel red and allow it to cool, it will be softer as a result. If you heat the same steel red and the quench it ,
it will be harder, in the middle and especially at the surface. A “case hardening” is the result.
As a matter of interest, if you heat brass red and quench it, it becomes softer. Is a way to remove hardening from working the brass when resizing.
It’s called annealing the brass .