I do. Once you have done a couple the effort isnt much. If you do it and the saw doesn't like it you can always move it back to stock. Only saw i found that doesn't like it is a MS361.
From what I understand there is a happy medium in how far you advance. Is there a rule of thumb on what to do? I have read 1/5 the key, 1/6 the key and as far as 1/4 the key.
Echo has one of the most sophisticated timing curves in the industry built into their coils. I really doubt you will see a lot of benefits due to how hard it is already advancing.
It is a complicated and expensive Oppama ignition tester.
It’s been muff modded, and limiters removed. Dropped the bar to 16 and using the Dukes full chisel. It’s an awesome setup as is. From the sounds of it I have it as good as she will get.
Not enough to make a noticeable difference in performance.
I can see that if the flywheel is wallowed out and loose. The pros that know say a good flywheel doesn't need the woodruff key to stay in position if it's torqued to spec.
Is it on a taper or is the shaft straight?
That is a good point, I believe the old craftsman that I’m remembering was a straight shaft so it would not seat under torque like a tapered…..don’t know why I never thought of that, but it was a long time ago when i first started fiddling with saws.
This is accurate. That is why flywheel nut torque is so critical. Too loose, and it shears the key; too tight, and the extreme taper pressure could crack the flywheel.
I used to advance the timing on them but it makes some of them more difficult to start. Not harder to pull over, but it’s like the spark happens too early and they just don’t want to light off without the trigger being pulled
