Silvey HDG-6: who’s got one, need pics!

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

If you own one or know someone who owns one... fess up!!! Out of all us chainsaw addicts here I know one of you can point me in the right direction.

I need some pics and info on the unit!

Cheers!

 

[Armbru84]

@chipper1

 

[chipper1]

Pictures worth a thousand words, video...
Let me know if you need anything else.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I’d love to find one to buy! Google it then select images you’ll get lots of hits

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

I’d love to find one to buy! Google it then select images you’ll get lots of hits

Hint: The purpose of me baiting an owner of one was to acquire a unit for reproduction.

[emoji2958]

 

[Hinerman]

Pictures worth a thousand words, video...
Let me know if you need anything else.

It never gets into the tooth???

 

[Deets066]

Only bad thing about the HDG-6 is that it sets the rakers to a set height for the whole chain. Instead of setting raker height individually to its corresponding cutter.

 

[chipper1]

It never gets into the tooth???

Only if it's not adjusted correctly.
If I use it on a 325 chain without adjusting the stroke it will hit the back of the top plate, makes them bore nice .

 

[Deets066]

It never gets into the tooth???

nope

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

Only if it's not adjusted correctly.
If I use it on a 325 chain without adjusting the stroke it will hit the back of the top plate, makes them bore nice .

Is it working on an eccentric lobe that slightly raises and lowers the head while the chain is fed through? That’s what I had previous conversations about with others...

 

[chipper1]

Only bad thing about the HDG-6 is that it sets the rakers to a set height for the whole chain. Instead of setting raker height individually to its corresponding cutter.

I agree, great for production chain, not race chains. But for guys who are doing all their chains at home on a grinder they should all be equal length anyway.

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

I agree, great for production chain, not race chains. But for guys who are doing all their chains at home on a grinder they should all be equal length anyway.

Production with speed and accuracy is what I’d be after. I have 2x USG’s and one is set up specifically for rakers. Even then it’s still a long time involved process of manually pushing chain through.

 

[chipper1]

Is it working on an eccentric lobe that slightly raises and lowers the head while the chain is fed through? That’s what I had previous conversations about with others...

It lifts off the raker.

Production with speed and accuracy is what I’d be after. I have 2x USG’s and one is set up specifically for rakers. Even then it’s still a long time involved process of manually pushing chain through.

I have an Oregon that is set up for rakers. It's still needed to do 325 chains without adjusting the silvey, it also will take down the safety bumpers which the silvey will not.
I'd rather push chain thru the grinder than to hand file.

 

[Time's Standing Stihl]

Only bad thing about the HDG-6 is that it sets the rakers to a set height for the whole chain. Instead of setting raker height individually to its corresponding cutter.

That’s not a bad thing when all your teeth are the same

 

[Skeans1]

Production with speed and accuracy is what I’d be after. I have 2x USG’s and one is set up specifically for rakers. Even then it’s still a long time involved process of manually pushing chain through.

Even with a HDG they still take a while to do a chain, they were made for doing multiple chains at a time. I have an Oregon 511A setup for doing depth gauges yes it can take a while on a 135 driver or longer semi skip chain, but with the setup time of the HDG I can be done quicker with the Oregon.


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[Black Dog Chainsaw]

Even with a HDG they still take a while to do a chain, they were made for doing multiple chains at a time. I have an Oregon 511A setup for doing depth gauges yes it can take a while on a 135 driver or longer semi skip chain, but with the setup time of the HDG I can be done quicker with the Oregon.


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Set up time is negligible if you’re running 90% 3/8 chain. Can’t believe it would take longer to repeatedly run 3/8 chain over pushing it through a manual grinder... if it does... we’ll change the design. I’m already looking into universal 1/8-1/4hp motors so power will be increased over using the old 300 Dayton motors and replacement parts will be easier to acquire in the future.

 

[Skeans1]

Set up time is negligible if you’re running 90% 3/8 chain. Can’t believe it would take longer to repeatedly run 3/8 chain over pushing it through a manual grinder... if it does... we’ll change the design. I’m already looking into universal 1/8-1/4hp motors so power will be increased over using the old 300 Dayton motors and replacement parts will be easier to acquire in the future.

The most common sizes it’d be useful for are the harvester chains where you’re doing 20 chains a week or more 3/4 11H/11BC or 404 80 gauge. One thing I could see changing is how they were held on the bottom as well as the make it so you’re not sitting there cranking the chain around. Find a motor with a shaft size you can swap sprockets for the different chain sizes from 1/4” up to 3/4” 6K Products out here makes keyed shaft sprockets allowing the user to adjust what they need for the task at hand. If you can come up with a design on one I’d be interested in trying one setup like that we run 19HX at 15 loops a week at 94 drivers so anything I can do to cut my time I’d be willing to try.


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[chipper1]

Set up time is negligible if you’re running 90% 3/8 chain. Can’t believe it would take longer to repeatedly run 3/8 chain over pushing it through a manual grinder... if it does... we’ll change the design. I’m. Looking into universal 1/8-1/4hp motors so power will be increased over using the old 300 Dayton motors and replacement parts will be easier to acquire in the future.

Exactly.
Set a raker to the desired height(this means filing one raker), put chain on the grinder, adjust tensioner(for the length of the chain), adjust the height of the wheel to the one you set, turn on grinder, turn handle to rotate the chain if it's set up manually or walk away if it's set up to turn the chain automatically.
If it's a chain you are familiar with and you know you want to drop the rakers a bit more for some green wood the next day vs dead, you just put it on the grinder, adjust the tensioner, adjust the wheel height .005, turn it on and watch the show or do something else for a few minutes .

Even with a HDG they still take a while to do a chain, they were made for doing multiple chains at a time. I have an Oregon 511A setup for doing depth gauges yes it can take a while on a 135 driver or longer semi skip chain, but with the setup time of the HDG I can be done quicker with the Oregon.


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Just because something can be done quicker using another method doesn't mean it's the best way to go about it. For me doing rakers on a 135dl chain by hand would put a hurting on my elbows, so I set up the Oregon to do them. If I felt the Oregon would be faster or easier on me I'd be using it, now the only chains I do on it are those with the safety bumpers and 325 or 3/8 picco, and I'm primarily doing 20-24" chains(3/8)

The most common sizes it’d be useful for are the harvester chains where you’re doing 20 chains a week or more 3/4 11H/11BC or 404 80 gauge. One thing I could see changing is how they were held on the bottom as well as the make it so you’re not sitting there cranking the chain around. Find a motor with a shaft size you can swap sprockets for the different chain sizes from 1/4” up to 3/4” 6K Products out here makes keyed shaft sprockets allowing the user to adjust what they need for the task at hand. If you can come up with a design on one I’d be interested in trying one setup like that we run 19HX at 15 loops a week at 94 drivers so anything I can do to cut my time I’d be willing to try.


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That would be nice to use one on harvester chain, do you do those on the Oregon now.
Mine has a bbq rotisserie motor on it, it turns a little faster than I'd like, but I take smaller amounts off. I prefer to do that anyway or you harden the rakers and then you can file them to make a slight adjustment when needed in the field.

 

[Skeans1]

Exactly.
Set a raker to the desired height(this means filing one raker), put chain on the grinder, adjust tensioner(for the length of the chain), adjust the height of the wheel to the one you set, turn on grinder, turn handle to rotate the chain if it's set up manually or walk away if it's set up to turn the chain automatically.
If it's a chain you are familiar with and you know you want to drop the rakers a bit more for some green wood the next day vs dead, you just put it on the grinder, adjust the tensioner, adjust the wheel height .005, turn it on and watch the show or do something else for a few minutes .

Just because something can be done quicker using another method doesn't mean it's the best way to go about it. For me doing rakers on a 135dl chain by hand would put a hurting on my elbows, so I set up the Oregon to do them. If I felt the Oregon would be faster or easier on me I'd be using it, now the only chains I do on it are those with the safety bumpers and 325 or 3/8 picco, and I'm primarily doing 20-24" chains(3/8)

That would be nice to use one on harvester chain, do you do those on the Oregon now.
Mine has a bbq rotisserie motor on it, it turns a little faster than I'd like, but I take smaller amounts off. I prefer to do that anyway or you harden the rakers and then you can file them to make a slight adjustment when needed in the field.

All my depth gauges are done on one of the Oregon grinders from 3/8 to 3/4. When I’m doing 3/8 the primary short length would be 105 either semi skip or comp up to 185 full skip with different combos in between so it’d be nice to have something I could set and grind another chain well this does the work.


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[Skeans1]

Here’s their page maybe a 3/4 shaft motor?

https://www.6kproducts.com/sprocket-straight_bore.html


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