So as an update on this....
The 565 has been through a bunch of tanks of gas and couple bar flips. It has a chip on the handle and it's all dirty... now it looks like a saw.
These days I take my Dolmar 6400 and the Husky into the woods, and leave the Echo behind. I've been using the Husky for limbing and felling, and both saws for bucking.
Here's what I've thought of the change so far:
Autotune: I was wary of autotune. People said it was good, I had a hard time believing them. I have ears and a screwdriver (and tachometer), and adjusting a carb takes only a couple minutes.
My verdict after living with it for a while? It has ups and downs. I wouldn't want it if I was a tractor pull speed cutter, but as a wood getter, I can live with it.
What I don't like: This saw doesn't 2-stroke, and it therefore sounds girly next to the dolmar. That's not just a vanity issue- the Dolmar is getting out more RPMs under the same load because it's tuned just so. The Husky also feels a little less powerful, but that's not a fair competition (the Husky is 7cc bigger, but it has an unmodified stock muffler and is pulling more links around a bigger bar).
What I do like: The husky is almost impossible to stall. My dad always said, "speed cuts"... well, you could run this saw if you didn't know what that means and you were deaf. If my jacket covers the saw's air, it slows down a little but keeps going. I can hear that happen right away with the Dolmar.
Overall I don't love autotune and I don't hate it. The head will probably last longer since it's running a little tamer than I would have it running if I was in charge of the carb settings.
I'm still wondering if I even should clear out the muffler a little (something I usually do for all my saws)- will that screw up the autotune thingy? We'll probably find out one of these days!
Bar nuts: Love at first sight for the idea of captive bar nuts. I actually had some trouble figuring out the right torque for them and had them come loose a couple times (I was using the miniature scrench that came with the saw and tightening them gingerly so as not to damage them), but I landed on "use a regular scrench and tighten them like any other saw", and that's been fine. It looks like a delicate assembly, but it holds up fine to some torque.
Starting: The husky takes more pulls than the Dolmar but it is less finicky.
On the other hand, I could hand the Husky to pretty much anybody who knows what a chainsaw is and they could figure out how to start it without flooding it. I wouldn't expect someone who doesn't know the Dolmar to figure it out on the first try (or maybe at all
).
Cutting:
I ground the chains the same and took both saws to the same wet ~20" red oak. They both made me happy. The Dolmar was a little quicker but not a lot, and as noted above that's not a fair contest.
Little stuff:
The Dolmar's gigantic comedy dawgs are not present on the Husky. The Dolmar loses a couple inches of useful bar length because its dawgs were designed by the marketing department. (I should really change those out.)
I'm on the fence as to whether I like the Husky's toolless fluid caps. Good idea in theory, I guess, but when am I going to be running a saw and not have a scrench with me? I do like the way the semiflush design lets you brush off the area before opening the cap, but it also gave me a little trouble at first (I was being too careful with the little plastic bits and didn't torque them down enough). They still look delicate and out of place on a working saw.
Overall: It's a good saw so far! I'm hopefully going to put a lot of miles on it.