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huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
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Those 2260/562 mufflers sure are a pain to mod Kevin, did my 2260 recently with a drill and a big burr in it, took me about an hour and a half.
I hear you. I bet it took me that long also. I removed about 2 in of the midsection of the baffle is that was all I could get without cutting the muffler in half
 

RI Chevy

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Will you weld it back together Wilheim?
 

RedGas

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At a quick glance that muffler looked like a dinosour.....

Sinclair Gasoline

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RedGas

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For my AM 660. Just did it today. Still needs woodstove paint. Had to test it...

IMG_2485.jpg
IMG_2487.jpg
IMG_2486.jpg


My saw, which is fairly new, was running pretty fat as it was. (I bought it on ebay from a builder in B.C.) After burning about 1.5 gallons of mix, I leaned it out to get about 11,500 rpms (still 4-stroking at WOT) and left it there to play it safe. With the new exhaust, I didn't really need to fatten it up at all ... it still 4-strokes at WOT, though I didn't check what RPM I'm getting at WOT.

The fact that I didn't need to richen the H jet makes me wonder whether I should open up the exhaust even more...
 
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Ryan Browne

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Anyone got any quick tips for opening up the muffler on an echo 501p? @Miller Mod Saws, @Red97 can either of you guys give me the low down? A buddy of mine just bought one and after running my ported 350/346 and 261 he wants to pursue a louder saw. A little more power would be okay too. :)

Just wondering if I need to uncrimp the muffler and empty out the guts or if I can just take off that goofy cover and cut a big hole. Any help would be appreciated. Also, I just took a quick look, but it looks like a drywall screw will take care of the carb limiters. Am I missing anything there?
 

huskyboy

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Anyone got any quick tips for opening up the muffler on an echo 501p? @Miller Mod Saws, @Red97 can either of you guys give me the low down? A buddy of mine just bought one and after running my ported 350/346 and 261 he wants to pursue a louder saw. A little more power would be okay too. :)

Just wondering if I need to uncrimp the muffler and empty out the guts or if I can just take off that goofy cover and cut a big hole. Any help would be appreciated. Also, I just took a quick look, but it looks like a drywall screw will take care of the carb limiters. Am I missing anything there?
Easy muff if it’s like a 490 (cheaper sibling with plastic handlebar). Unscrew deflector screws and pull out the tube. It comes right out. Leaves a nice opening. You’ll see what to do to the deflector. I believe a drywall screw takes care of carb.
 

RedFir Down

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Anyone got any quick tips for opening up the muffler on an echo 501p? @Miller Mod Saws, @Red97 can either of you guys give me the low down? A buddy of mine just bought one and after running my ported 350/346 and 261 he wants to pursue a louder saw. A little more power would be okay too. :)

Just wondering if I need to uncrimp the muffler and empty out the guts or if I can just take off that goofy cover and cut a big hole. Any help would be appreciated. Also, I just took a quick look, but it looks like a drywall screw will take care of the carb limiters. Am I missing anything there?
The first page of this thread has some ideas.
http://opeforum.com/threads/echo-501p-lets-play.4704/
 

Ryan Browne

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merc_man

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For my AM 660. Just did it today. Still needs woodstove paint. Had to test it...

IMG_2485.jpg
IMG_2487.jpg
IMG_2486.jpg


My saw, which is fairly new, was running pretty fat as it was. (I bought it on ebay from a builder in B.C.) After burning about 1.5 gallons of mix, I leaned it out to get about 11,500 rpms (still 4-stroking at WOT) and left it there to play it safe. With the new exhaust, I didn't really need to fatten it up at all ... it still 4-strokes at WOT, though I didn't check what RPM I'm getting at WOT.

The fact that I didn't need to richen the H jet makes me wonder whether I should open up the exhaust even more...
That hole looks a little small....

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