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- Jun 4, 2020
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I ship worldwideYeah she sure is purty. Good thing your not closer that would be tempting.
I ship worldwideYeah she sure is purty. Good thing your not closer that would be tempting.
I put a 1” pipe right up to the exhaust port on an ms440 muffler. Came straight out then a 45 degree bend to the side. I’ll get a pic tomorrow. It was really loud and spooled up quick but I didn’t like it so put a normal mod on. it was too loud for me. I felt it turned it into too much of a screamer.I want to put a single pipe out the side of my ported 3120 muffler. Probably 1.25". Can anyone provide input on the effects of inserting the tube further into the can or not?
Thanks
I want to put a single pipe out the side of my ported 3120 muffler. Probably 1.25". Can anyone provide input on the effects of inserting the tube further into the can or not?
Thanks
That will last 5 min…maybe, lolSaw this on FB
View attachment 423723
024 or 026? Not sure thoughNot a mod...but, anyone know what this cover goes to? Some sort of small Stihl.
Cleaned it in the media blaster looking for numbers...nada
View attachment 423840View attachment 423841
For noise reduction. Some claim they get better performance with them in-place. When I do a 660, I completely remove the baffle. With how I port them, they run the best with the baffle totally gone.What is the purpose of the inner baffle on the Stihl two piece mufflers? Most everyone cuts them off.
Is it just a noise reduction or increase back pressure.
Noise and EPA BSWhat is the purpose of the inner baffle on the Stihl two piece mufflers? Most everyone cuts them off.
Is it just a noise reduction or increase back pressure.
What is the purpose of the inner baffle on the Stihl two piece mufflers? Most everyone cuts them off.
Is it just a noise reduction or increase back pressure.
You are not alone. I’ve had the same frustration with some Stihl mufflers, of late, and gave up and just welded them. It has given me plenty of time with getting good at quick spot weld lines . I still wind up grinding things to look decent. Braising is so much cleaner…when it works.I'm looking for a little advice. I've done several muffler mods over the last several years for friends and family. Thinking back on most of the Stihls that I've done, they were all strategically placed gill slits opened up to move the exhaust away from all the plastics, face, or hands. All the Husky's have gotten either deflectors brazed on or light wall tube brazed in. I'm not Mr. welder or anywhere close, but I've never had any problem brazing on the husky mufflers.
HOWEVER... a buddy brought over his MS 291 wanting a MM and a tune up. After looking it over I decided to go with a 1-1/2" long 1/2" EMT pipe angled up and away from the operator position. Kinda the standard thing I've done on several huskys (although the larger saws normally get 3/4" or 1").
I cleaned and scuffed the muffler around the hole with a wire wheel, but I can't seem to get the brazing rod to stick on that Stihl steel to save my azz!!! It sticks in places and no problem on the tube, but the muffler body itself is not wanting anything to do with it. Is it made of Galvalume or something like that? I'm using the same bronze colored brazing rod with the blue flux on it like I've always used.
Am I alone in this and just one of those guys who shouldn't own a oxy/acetylene torch??? or is this a common problem? Do I need to clean it back up and weld it? Paste flux perhaps?
And before you even ask, there is NO WAY I'm taking a picture of it and posting it on line... I already feel like I had to rip my MAN Card in half to ask for advice... LOL
I believe the mufflers on those are aluminized steel. Grind the coating off the muffler around where you will be brazing. I use emt tubing on a lot of mods, but I turn off the galvanized coating in my lathe. That zinc crap will cause all kinds of issues when you get it hot. Try to grind the galvanizing off the tube as well.I'm looking for a little advice. I've done several muffler mods over the last several years for friends and family. Thinking back on most of the Stihls that I've done, they were all strategically placed gill slits opened up to move the exhaust away from all the plastics, face, or hands. All the Husky's have gotten either deflectors brazed on or light wall tube brazed in. I'm not Mr. welder or anywhere close, but I've never had any problem brazing on the husky mufflers.
HOWEVER... a buddy brought over his MS 291 wanting a MM and a tune up. After looking it over I decided to go with a 1-1/2" long 1/2" EMT pipe angled up and away from the operator position. Kinda the standard thing I've done on several huskys (although the larger saws normally get 3/4" or 1").
I cleaned and scuffed the muffler around the hole with a wire wheel, but I can't seem to get the brazing rod to stick on that Stihl steel to save my azz!!! It sticks in places and no problem on the tube, but the muffler body itself is not wanting anything to do with it. Is it made of Galvalume or something like that? I'm using the same bronze colored brazing rod with the blue flux on it like I've always used.
Am I alone in this and just one of those guys who shouldn't own a oxy/acetylene torch??? or is this a common problem? Do I need to clean it back up and weld it? Paste flux perhaps?
And before you even ask, there is NO WAY I'm taking a picture of it and posting it on line... I already feel like I had to rip my MAN Card in half to ask for advice... LOL