Setting Bearing Depth

[Mastermind]

Ima call you later

Bring it on.

 

[angelo c]

I have a steel plate that I clamp in the vice.......then I slide the crank on it with the steel plate in between the counterweights. So that the stub is sticking straight up in the air. That supports the crank so it can't get knocked outta wack....

Then I drive the bearing on using a piece of pipe that fits on the inner race. (on bearings with steel cages I heat a plate of steel and lay the bearing on it to get hot) No chance of damaging the crank or the bearing this way. Once both bearings are seated on the crank, I heat the case half and slide in the crank. Some saws use the oil pump as a positive stop, others bottom out on the flywheel side bearing pocket.

Randy,
Hope you take this question out of my own ignorance...Ive been questioning the "heat" side of heating a case for bearing removal/replacement and have read the Stihl manuals several times where they state to heat the case to 250* with the oiler ON. Same oiler that came off and you intend to use. so my question is does 250* plus or minus 25* do any damage to anything at all ? (Assuming no rubber or gaskets are present ?)
I don't believe so.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Randy,
Hope you take this question out of my own ignorance...Ive been questioning the "heat" side of heating a case for bearing removal/replacement and have read the Stihl manuals several times where they state to heat the case to 250* with the oiler ON. Same oiler that came off and you intend to use. so my question is does 250* plus or minus 25* do any damage to anything at all ? (Assuming no rubber or gaskets are present ?)
I don't believe so.

I have a spare busted oiler that I use for that purpose (044/440).

 

[angelo c]

I have a spare busted oiler that I use for that purpose (044/440).

well I never, ever , ever even seen a busted oiler !!!
I use tractor supply bar oil and that stuff NEVER fails...

I dunno what you oiler abusers do but...

just funning wit ya Jer...

 

[Mastermind]

Randy,
Hope you take this question out of my own ignorance...Ive been questioning the "heat" side of heating a case for bearing removal/replacement and have read the Stihl manuals several times where they state to heat the case to 250* with the oiler ON. Same oiler that came off and you intend to use. so my question is does 250* plus or minus 25* do any damage to anything at all ? (Assuming no rubber or gaskets are present ?)
I don't believe so.

I use a old pump from a junk saw. I have one for most models. But.......when I have to use to oil pump that I intend to use on the saw, I just pull the plastic piece out of the end. I know the book says 250 or so. I take em on up to 300 or higher sometimes. I've yet to ruin a pump with heat.

 

[huskihl]

The clutch side seal is possibly the biggest pita on these saws. The seal goes in the oil pump first, and then you have to slide the whole thing on, and there's a lip in the crank. Lotsa grease and film strip or pop can aluminum to make a ramp to get the seal over it. 1st time sucks. 5th time is easy

 

[Stump Shot]

The clutch side seal is possibly the biggest pita on these saws. The seal goes in the oil pump first, and then you have to slide the whole thing on, and there's a lip in the crank. Lotsa grease and film strip or pop can aluminum to make a ramp to get the seal over it. 1st time sucks. 5th time is easy

The tool from Husqvarna helps immensely here, Stihl has them for their saws too.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

So what side of the oiler does the seal get installed?
Obviously I know in which direction it faces.
But the gear is sorta in the way.

 

[Stump Shot]

So what side of the oiler does the seal get installed?
Obviously I know in which direction it faces.
But the gear is sorta in the way.

I've been pushing them in backwards on the 2 series, seems to go OK, just get the depth the same.

 

[mdavlee]

I think I put the oiler on first. I just did a 288 2 weeks ago

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I've been pushing them in backwards on the 2 series, seems to go OK, just get the depth the same.

Without disassembling the oiler, this is the only way I see to do it.

 

[ny15]

On the 288's I install the seal in the oiler and then install the oiler using the Husqvarna sleeve tool. That's the only 2 series I've done.

 

[Stump Shot]

This is a 281 pump, but you get the idea.
Push seal in with a driver or an arbor press.



Seal tool from Husqvarna.



Nice part is you can put it on before installing, then you know for sure everything is OK. Then slide the whole thing on together.

 

[5000+]

A thin wall bronze busing makes a good install sleeve to get over the step on the crank.

 

[Jughead]

when i put the pumps on i cut the clear window plastic out of a stihl chain box and wrap it around the crank.
and when installing bearings i go somewhere around 325f.after watching one of tree monkeys videos i threw the thermometer in the corner.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

when i put the pumps on i cut the clear window plastic out of a stihl chain box and wrap it around the crank.
and when installing bearings i go somewhere around 325f.after watching one of tree monkeys videos i threw the thermometer in the corner.

Usually when the paint starts to blister.....

 

[Jughead]

Usually when the paint starts to blister.....

exactly.when it starts smelling bbq'ish its ready.that is usually just before the magnesium underneath starts turning a really bright firey color.

 

[Stump Shot]

Lol The residual oil will start to smoke, then it's hot enough. I quit using the thermometer after I figured this out.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Lol The residual oil will start to smoke, then it's hot enough. I quit using the thermometer after I figured this out.

Perzactly

 

[Jughead]

Sizzling spit helps too.lol