- Local time
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- 4
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- Dec 3, 2015
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Check your email Jeremy.
You're pretty quick today
Check your email Jeremy.
What am I,chopped liver? Although I could just set back and watch Jeremy struggle.
You need one too?
Just like pulling out your peter in a hoe house.
Gots itCheck your email Jeremy.
I'll attach a pdf when I'm done with my coffee and get to a real computer.
No lip on either case half on this 266
+MooSorry.......got sidetracked.
Damn cattle. lol
http://www.mediafire.com/file/bz9k6g6r67z39yb/61,66,266,268+Workshop+Manual.pdf
I have a steel plate that I clamp in the vice.......then I slide the crank on it with the steel plate in between the counterweights. So that the stub is sticking straight up in the air. That supports the crank so it can't get knocked outta wack....
Then I drive the bearing on using a piece of pipe that fits on the inner race. (on bearings with steel cages I heat a plate of steel and lay the bearing on it to get hot) No chance of damaging the crank or the bearing this way. Once both bearings are seated on the crank, I heat the case half and slide in the crank. Some saws use the oil pump as a positive stop, others bottom out on the flywheel side bearing pocket.
So in this case, on the 266, I should seat the bearings on the crank first?
I usually heat the bearings in a small pan of motor oil on the grill if I go this route ....
The manual says bearings in case first......then pull the crank in with the proper tool.
No lip on either case half on this 266
No lip on either case half on this 266
Ima call you laterThe piece the seal goes in is the stop on the flywheel side, and the oil pump on the PTO side.