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Bigmac

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As Mason stated, timing advance will not help every saw, but it makes a huge difference on some. My brother's 460 was very lethargic with the muffler mod till we advanced the timing on it. I also take .020 off the key of all the Asian 660s I build, and it seems to work very well in conjunction with the Cross P+C.

I would give it a try on your saw. The M-Tron may take a bit to get used to it (like it did on my 362), but it paid dividends. Even though it is an integral key, you can always reverse it by just spinning the flywheel the other way before tightening it.

I won't say it looks pretty, but I often reduce the integral keys using a triangular file. Not pretty, but it works.
I just did the triangle file key thining to an ms170 and it worked great! I haven’t taken the 661 flywheel off yet to see if it has a keyway or is cast in. I will have to check it out soon
 

Bigmac

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If I’m gonna be honest... I think the variable of two separate saws is too much and can interfere with the results your getting. If I bought 10 brand new 661’s I bet one will be a animal, one a turd and the rest about the same. You have to consider every little detail.
I agree on production tolerances, I have two 660’s and one had .019 squish stock, and is impressive for a stock saw, the other had .034 squish and seemed average, the difference was 20 psi compression as well..
 

TreeLife

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I agree on production tolerances, I have two 660’s and one had .019 squish stock, and is impressive for a stock saw, the other had .034 squish and seemed average, the difference was 20 psi compression as well..
Said it before, I'll say it again...I've used stock 660 that were stout as bulls, and some that wouldn't pull a dildo out of a lard bucket. Like snowflakes they are.
 

ABarrick

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Said it before, I'll say it again...I've used stock 660 that were stout as bulls, and some that wouldn't pull a dildo out of a lard bucket. Like snowflakes they are.
I lol'd....and I completely agree. The better of my two 660's that I currently have rips. It will give my 395 fits. The other one is kind of just a blah saw. It cuts wood but not in any kind of amazing fashion.
 

Roadfxr

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Said it before, I'll say it again...I've used stock 660 that were stout as bulls, and some that wouldn't pull a dildo out of a lard bucket. Like snowflakes they are.

Apparently I’ve only ever ran the later of the two. One of the most uninspiring saws I’ve ever put my hands on.
 

Onan18

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They didn't lose no screws though did they. Lol
Just funnin


Oh believe me, Stihls lose screws too. I have a TS 420 in for repair right now, third time it has spit the exhaust bolts out. Wrecked the muffler and pulled the threads out of the cylinder this time.
 

huskyboy

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I lol'd....and I completely agree. The better of my two 660's that I currently have rips. It will give my 395 fits. The other one is kind of just a blah saw. It cuts wood but not in any kind of amazing fashion.
Something is wrong with your 395. Might wanna check and see if the choke is halfway on... :p
 

MustangMike

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OK. let's go over this again, cause some are not following. No one did any port work to either of the Asian Twins. I called them that because the cylinder ports seemed the same and the port timing on both was the same (I measured them at the same time). I know that does not mean they will run exactly the same, but I expected them to be similar, and now they are.

The only difference is assembly was putting a more aggressive muffler mod on Twin #2, I thought that would make it a little stronger. Instead, it was noticeably weaker than Twin #1. It would run fast, but as soon as you leaned on it, it would slow or stop. I tried adjusting the carb as much as I could, it helped a little, but not much.

The then ordered a replacement muffler for Twin #2 and modded it even less than I did for Twin 1. With the new muffler, and the tune returned to where it started, Twin #2 is now running very strong. The only change made to Twin #2 to make it as strong or stronger than Twin #1 was the muffler, so I'm pleased with how it runs and I'm leaving it as is.

Sorry if it sounds like I'm beating a dead horse here, but several folks just seem to be all confused about what happened.

I hope this clarifies my experience and I can move on.
 

RI Chevy

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Mike, sorry, I fubared that all up. I was referring to the 660 Doc ported with fingers.
SORRY
 

MustangMike

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Oh believe me, Stihls lose screws too. I have a TS 420 in for repair right now, third time it has spit the exhaust bolts out. Wrecked the muffler and pulled the threads out of the cylinder this time.

I have run across this Joe. Had a MS 460 I fixed for a tree guy that would not keep muffler bots, even with normal Loctite. After the saw returned to me 3 times in a month, I put them down with the HD Loctite, and it has not come back since.

Also, my personal MS 440 spit the muffler bolts after that had no problems for about 2 years. Very strange, but I put them back in with the HD stuff also. Was so glad neither saw ate any of the bolts.
 

Stump Shot

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Oh believe me, Stihls lose screws too. I have a TS 420 in for repair right now, third time it has spit the exhaust bolts out. Wrecked the muffler and pulled the threads out of the cylinder this time.

My Stihl should be sponsored by Heli-Coil. Lol
 

huskyboy

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The only thing wrong with my 395 is the bleeping chain tensioner is not on the side...
I’m not a fan of the front tensioner setup to adjust tension on the go, but the huskies are easier to put a bar on than a stihl in my experience. The way a stihl tensioner is you have to take the bar off to get to the screw to get the bar on the pin if it’s off by a lot. Especially switching different bar setups. The 395 is easier to put a long bar on because the outboard clutch holds the bar on so you can get the chain on and not mess around trying to hold the bar on from falling off. The side tensioner huskies with it in the cover you use the side cover to hold bar on and you screw the tensioner till it lines up and put screws on tension chain done.
 
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ABarrick

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I’m not a fan of the front tensioner setup to adjust tension on the go, but the huskies are easier to put a bar on than a stihl in my experience. The way a stihl tensioner is you have to take the bar off to get to the screw to get the bar on the pin. Especially switching different bar setups. The 395 is easier to put a long bar on because outboard clutch holds the bar on so you can get the chain on and not mess around trying to hold the bar on from falling off.
On an inboard clutch saw I hang the chain on the bar and put it all on together. Much easier than fighting and outboard clutch with a tensioner that you can't get to while the saw is laying on its side. Different strokes for different folks I guess but in the 20+ years the 394/5 has been around, you'd think somebody at husky coulda figured out a side chain tensioner.
 
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