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andyshine77

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LoneOak

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chipper1

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@Bigmac Ouch!!! That barn is pretty strong though. Lol Time for the crane.
A crane, ain't nobody got time for a crane, then you got the cost. Strip the branches, cut the stem a ft or so away from the eve and buck the top in place. Unless the structure is not safe, then a crane or another piece of equipment lol.
 

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A crane, ain't nobody got time for a crane, then you got the cost. Strip the branches, cut the stem a ft or so away from the eve and buck the top in place. Unless the structure is not safe, then a crane or another piece of equipment lol.
Neighbor's excavator with a thumb. Lift it off and cut on the ground.

@rogue60 notching had nothing to do with @Bigmac debacle. Many use rogue felling technique with success, he is not showing two notches on same tree. Notch, back cut and wedge it over, what's the problem?
 

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Many ways to hack it down. Safest way is to use crane at this point. Minimize any more damage to structure. Iffin there was no care on damage I'd hook a rope and pull it down. Lol
 

chipper1

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Many ways to hack it down. Safest way is to use crane at this point. Minimize any more damage to structure. Iffin there was no care on damage I'd hook a rope and pull it down. Lol
That's funny, but I've seen it done before. I was helping a neighbor and had a large maple branch all brushed out while it was still on the roof. I ran back to the house to get fuel/oil, byvthe time I got back he pulled it down with his truck, along with the eve :cunaooooo: :facepalm:.
Most jobs I've bid were under the cost of having a crane come out to complete. In our town we only have 4 companies that have cranes specifically for tree work, most times there's a storm it's a 2500 minimum as their doing all insurance work, the insurance company doesn't argue with the price, they just want it off so they can get bids on the repairs and finalize there loses. While I agree, the safest way would be to crane it, many times there is no access.
Neighbor's excavator with a thumb. Lift it off and cut on the ground
Yep, thats why I said crane or equipment. Its probably only 1-1.5k if the root ball stays on the ground, nothing like an oak.
Wish I had some videos of some of the trees on houses I've done, I may get called out if I post a picture or two :SimpHomer:.
 

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It was an insurance job for sure, tree was 4’ at the base and and around 150’ tall, over 3 foot in diameter were it his the barn, and 18’ eves. it was in the middle of the pandemic price issues the plywood was almost $70 a sheet and the brekenridge was $115 a sheet! The insurance company called a tree service, with a crane.
Was try to start anything, I thought @Maintenance Chief drawing was funny, and have seen a double notch before.
Here in production softwood county, there is a ton of waist, its more about making a profit all around, full loads on the log truck and as fast as possible! If a log deck has only a 3/4 or less of wood, it gets left. Unless it’s a private, small operation.
 

jacob j.

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Here in production softwood county, there is a ton of waist, its more about making a profit all around, full loads on the log truck and as fast as possible! If a log deck has only a 3/4 or less of wood, it gets left. Unless it’s a private, small operation.

Yep - It's all about getting loads to the mill. That's where the term "Oregon Highballer" comes from.
 

jacob j.

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with humbolt you leave the wood in to stump. with conventional you can cut right at ground level

I still don't get the logic behind it what wood are you saving that side of the log is now short with these massive steep conventional face cuts.
Less wood is wasted with a humboldt at the end of the day from a sawmill recovery point of view IMHO

Here on the coast, it doesn't really matter because a lot of our softwood trees here have big root flare and the mills don't want the root flare (I'm
guessing it's the same for mills around the world). So Humboldt or conventional, whatever works best for the faller works for everyone else in the
chain. The loggers don't really care except on government sales where there's a maximum stump height written into the sale contract. Even if a
guy takes the effort to make a lower stump here, he ends up cutting two-three-four feet off the butt to get out of the flare and that wood is left in
the brush for the bugs to eat.

Over on the east side of our state, it can be different as there's more flat ground there and very little root flare. Those boys are trying to get
maximum scale so you'll see even long time fallers rolling conventional on the flatter ground.
 
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