ROUND Grinders only

[Red97]

I'll have to look at it and decide how I want to mount it

The way the 410 is you can mount it flat to the wall if you want. No need for a stand.

 

[KenJax Tree]

Philbert how do you keep it sitting flat with the bolts going though the wood?

 

[Philbert]

'T'- nuts.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

This was posted on A.S. Some grinders are attached to a piece of plywood (or similar) and clamped to any work surface I use. I like to grind outside, when I can, so picnic tables, etc. I also have my 511A set up to mount on a step ladder, which can be set up anywhere - the 'T'-nuts are easy to see.







Philbert

 

[Philbert]

This photo also shows some mini-grinders I was playing around with in another A.S. thread on cheap grinders.
They were bolted up through the bottom with carriage bolts, with the heads slightly recessed, so the bottom is 'flush'.



Philbert

 

[Firewood Bandit]

I raised mine so they are at shoulder level so it's easier to see what's going on. I now also have an adjustable light on each one.

 

[KenJax Tree]

What size are those mounting holes? I want to get the hardware

 

[Red97]

5/16 or 3/8 will work, used 3/8 on mine through the bottom.

Grab some washers too.

 

[redoakneck]

Nice job Philbert!!!


I would like to petition the court to change the name of your "T" nuts to " J" nuts, subscribed

 

[KenJax Tree]

Im gonna do the T nuts on a 2"x6" so i can move it around

 

[Philbert]

What size are those mounting holes? I want to get the hardware

5/16 or 3/8 will work, used 3/8 on mine through the bottom..

5/16" seems to work on the ones I have, but I have seen differences between some similar grinders. If you wait until you get the grinder, you can judge both the diameter and length better.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Nice job Philbert!!!

Thanks!

I would like to petition the court to change the name of your "T" nuts to " J" nuts . . .

The 'T'-nuts (with hex bolts and washers) hold the grinder to the mounting board.
The 'J'-bolts (with wing nuts and washers) clamp the mounted grinder and angled wooden cleat to the ladder rungs - makes it height adjustable, and lets me use almost any step ladder without drilling.

Philbert

 

[KenJax Tree]

 

[redoakneck]

Thanks!


The 'T'-nuts (with hex bolts and washers) hold the grinder to the mounting board.
The 'J'-bolts (with wing nuts and washers) clamp the mounted grinder and angled wooden cleat to the ladder rungs - makes it height adjustable, and lets me use almost any step ladder without drilling.

Philbert

I was looking at yer wrong set of nuts

 

[Philbert]

I was looking at yer wrong set of nuts

Not sure how comfortable I am with that . . . .

Philbert

 

[KenJax Tree]

This grinder is gonna require a learning curve....any tips[emoji1]

 

[Firewood Bandit]

This grinder is gonna require a learning curve....any tips[emoji1]

You'll do fine. Light taps, if the cutter turns red, you are grinding way to fast. Unless the chain has been rocked or hit metal, generally you don't have to take off much.

Avoid going super deep in the gullet. If the gullet needs cleaning out, do it without touching the working corner.

 

[Philbert]

Lots of threads on this on other sites. There is a learning curve (knowledge) and skill development (muscle memory), but it is not rocket science.

- It is not a chop saw - take lots of little taps (if you learned Morse Code - all 'dots', and no 'dashes');
- If you need to take off a lot from a really damaged chain, consider doing it in a few passes, instead of all at once;
- Dress the wheel frequently to expose fresh abrasive - I do it ever chain or two, or anytime the grinding slows down, or anytime I overheat a cutter;
- If you 'blue' a cutter, advance it slightly and grind through the overheated part;
- Check your first few cutters on each side - you may need to make small adjustments;
- I run the Left cutters, then the Right cutters, then go back and do the gullets if needed. Depth gauges are separate, due to different wheel.

Take some scrap chain and 'play' with it. See what different grinder settings do the cutter shape. Play with the depth of the wheel. Intentionally overheat a few cutters to see what it takes, and how to avoid it. Try a few different pitch chains, and the different wheels.

These are for 'similar' grinders - most of it applies to your 410:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

Philbert

 

[KenJax Tree]

How deep do you go just until the wheel meets the side plate?

I destroyed the 3/16 it sounded like a .22...Not sure why it happened I was lightly brushing the tooth when it broke.

 

[Philbert]

How deep do you go just until the wheel meets the side plate?

This is a frequent point of discussion, and it's up to you! I lower the wheel until the rounded profile touches the cutter the same way that a file would. This lets me grind in the shop, and file in the field for touch up sharpening. "Grind as you file: File as you grind".


Other people like to grind with the flat side of the wheel, similar to using a 'goofy file'. Just remember that you are shaping your top plate cutting edge and your side plate cutting edge. Start out by deciding what you want those to look like, then figure out which grinder settings get you there. Some guys use a new chain as a set up guide.

I destroyed the 3/16 it sounded like a .22...Not sure why it happened . . . .

That's why the safety glasses and guards are important! Exploding wheels get exciting.

I try to buy the Molemab wheels from Bailey's when on sale, and have an extra or two.

Philbert