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Philbert

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My only gripe is the chain vice, just don't care for the cam lock style.
The 511A had a single point cam lock that a lot of people liked. Plain and simple. This is also used on all of the 'clone' grinders I have seen.

The 511AX came out with the 'self-centering', parallel jaw vise that some people said did not hold up as well with heavy use - there are some plastic shims. and other parts that wore out. Some were difficult to replace. Several comments on this in some A.S. threads.

So Oregon went back to a cam style vise lock, but the new one applies pressure to the rails from both sides, intended I presume to clamp the drive links tighter, or to clamp more drive links at the same time (Tecomec still seems to be showing the earlier styles on their website).

The 620 grinder uses a hydraulic cylinder to clamp the drive links 'automatically' as the grinder head is lowered.

Firewood Bandit's modification is intended to eliminate sideways clamping, and rely on pressure from the top and rear of the cutter.

Several different approaches!

Philbert
 

Philbert

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Are the 511ax clones any good?
Lots of opinions - this was discussed in great detail in the 'Northern Tool' clone threads on A.S.

A lot of guys like them for the price ($100 - $120). But help me finish this sentence: "you usually get what ____ ____ ____."

Some guys have been satisfied with them out of the box. Some guys found a lot of quality variation, and had to pick through a few to get a good one. Several threads on fixing or bushing or tweaking them to work better. Some guys set them up just to do depth gauges. Lots of brands/colors/names out there, so there might be variation between them as well. A lot of comments that they work better if you replace the cheap grinding wheels with better quality Molemab or Oregon wheels.

Personally, I prefer a $500 saw over a $100 saw, not due to the price, even though they both cut. So I went with the Oregon and have been happy with it. Some of this is trust in the brand and the things I can't see: electrical parts, alloys used in the castings, etc. Oregon has also been very good about customer service, small parts, etc. And they keep more of their resale value if you decide to sell it. Of course, some guys turn their noses up at the Oregon/Tecomec grinders and insist on something that says 'STIHL' or 'Silvey'!

Go with what you feel comfortable with, and keep your receipt!

Philbert
 

Firewood Bandit

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Firewood Bandit's modification is intended to eliminate sideways clamping, and rely on pressure from the top and rear of the cutter.

Several different approaches!

Philbert

You are pretty close to what I am attempting.

First the original rails are really flimsy and have great tolerance. The new vice see post # 44 will have .002" clearance. To change gauge, shims will be installed to keep the fit tight. So the chain can't rock in the vice. There will be no need to clamp as the pawl forces the tooth down just like in the Silvey 510. BTW, I am pretty fond of the 510.

The intent is to make a Tecomec clone come close in operation to the Silvey. After all, any motor can spin a wheel.
 
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Philbert

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After all, any motor can spin a wheel.
Yeah, and you can put lipstick on a pig . . .

Just to be clear, I think that what you are trying is very interesting and very cool. I may be very envious when you are done. But if I was going to put that much effort into it, I would have started with a higher quality, and more consistent platform. Maybe have an aftermarket retrofit product when you are done.

Philbert
 

Firewood Bandit

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Well for what it's worth. the motor on the cheap Tecomec I am using for the platform is quieter and smoother than the Oregon 511AX and there is way less flex in the whole assembly when the stop is hit.
 

KenJax Tree

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I think i've decided either the Oregon 410 for $199 or the 510a for $239.
 

Philbert

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Go with the bigger motor (510a) unless you want/need the down angle feature (410).

Philbert
 
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MG2186

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I have a timber tuff Oregon knock off with a diamond wheel and I have no problems with it making a dam good cutting chain.


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greendohn

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I have an old foley belsaw grinder and use their brand of grinder wheels. The chain vise is factory set at 10 degrees and is non adjustable, I spin the chain vise for a 30 degree grind on most all chains and grind 'em deep using the lite tap-tap method without finishing any one cutter in a single pass,,moving around the chain a couple times to keep from over heating the cutter. I dress the wheel for every chain to keep it rounded.
 

KenJax Tree

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Is the head tilt angle really that important? I would go about 55°ish what is the fixed angle set at? 60/30/0 wouldn't be a problem though.
 
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Philbert

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The folks at Oregon say that it definitely makes a difference. They do a lot of testing under controlled conditions. Whether or not it makes a practical or noticeable difference to you in your cutting is up to you.

I generally grind without any tilt, unless it is requested. Going back and forth between tilt/down angle and none ends up wasting extra cutter. So I suggest trying it and deciding one way or the other.

Philbert
 

KenJax Tree

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What is the fixed angle on the head (55°-60°)? Im not worried about the vise tilting was just wondering about the head tilt.

The 510a head tilts the 410 doesn't so what is the angle on the 410? I would assume 55° as most Oregon chains are 55°.
 
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